I ' 


4 


•:  a i 


THE 


'DYER’S  INSTRUCTOR. 


/ 


THE 


DYER’S  INSTRUCTOR: 


COMPRISING  PRACTICAL  INSTRUCTIONS  IN  TUE 

ART  OF  DYEING  SILK,  COTTON,  WOOL, 


AND 

WORSTED  AND  WOOLLEN  GOODS, 


AS 

SINGLE  AND  TWO-COLORED  DAMASKS,  MOREENS,  CAMLETS,  LASTINGS, 
SHOT  COBOURGS,  SILK  STRIPED  ORLEANS,  PLAIN  ORLEANS 
FROM  WHITE  AND  COLORED  WARPS,  MERINOS, 

WOOLLENS,  YARNS,  ETC. 

CONTAINING 

NEARLY  EIGHT  HUNDRED  RECEIPTS. 

TO  WHICH  IS  ADDED, 

A TREATISE  ON  THE  ART  OF  PADDING; 


AND  THE  PRINTING  OP 

SILK  WARPS,  SKEINS,  AND  HANDKERCHIEFS,  AND  TnE  VARIOUS 
MORDANTS  AND  COLORS  FOR  THE  DIFFERENT  STYLES 
OF  SUCH  WORK. 


BY  DAVID  SMITH, 

FATTERN  DYER. 


PHILADELPHIA: 

II  E N R Y C A RE  Y BAI  U D, 

No.  7 HART'S  BUILDINGS. 

1853. 


PHILADELPHIA  I 

T.  K.  AND  P.  G.  COLLINS,  PRINTERS. 


INTRODUCTION. 


In  presenting  to  the  Public  my  second  Work  on 
Dyeing,  I have  endeavored  to  give  concise  and 
clear  directions  for  Dyeing  Wool  in  its  raw  state, 
Cotton  in  the  Hank  and  Warp,  and  Silk  in  the 
Skein,  in  all  the  various  colors ; and  also  for 
Dyeing  the  different  fabrics  of  Piece  Goods,  as 
Damasks,  single  and  two  colors,  Moreens,  Camlets, 
Tastings,  Shot  Cobourgs,  Silk  Striped  Orleans, 
Plain  Orleans  from  White  and  Colored  Warps, 
Merinos,  Woollens,  Yarns,  &c.  Also  I have  append- 
ed a concise  Treatise  on  the  Art  of  Padding ; and 
directions  for  the  Printing  of  Silk  Warps,  Skeins, 
and  Handkerchiefs,  and  the  various  Mordants  and 
Colors  for  the  different  styles  of  such  Work.  In 
this  department  I have  been  aided  by  one  of  the 
most  practical  men  in  the  Silk  Printing  business. 

1* 


VI 


INTRODUCTION. 


Since  the  publication  of  the  “ Practical  Dyer’s 
Guide,”  I have  received  numerous  applications 
for  receipts  for  Dyeing  Silk,  Cotton,  and  Wool. — 
As  the  “ Dyer’s  Guide”  is  particularly  appli- 
cable to  Stuff,  Yarn,  and  Woollen  Cloth  Dyers,  I 
have  collected  the  Receipts  on  Cotton,  Silk,  and 
Wool  Dyeing,  from  my  own  resources,  (not  from 
obsolete  Books  on  Dyeing,)  and  from  practical 
men  in  the  trade  who  have  been  prompt  to  aid  me 
in  this  attempt  to  impart  practical  and  scientific 
knowledge  to  my  brethren  in  the  trade.  The 
following  work  principally  comprises  Receipts 
for  Dyeing  a given  quantity  of  goods,  as  Wool, 
Cotton,  and  Silk,  together  with  other  miscellane- 
ous important  information. 

To  communicate  instruction  by  clear  and  con- 
cise Receipts,  must  be  regarded  as  best  calculated 
to  qualify  a person  for  successful  operations  in 
practical  dyeing  ; it  will  save  much  time,  and  also 
expense;  and  for  a learner,  must  be  far  superior 
to  reading  and  studying  the  complicated  and  cir- 
cuitous methods,  as  detailed  in  some  Treatises  on 
the  Art  of  Dyeing,  which  demands  the  greatest 
simplicity  in  its  explanations  and  directions,  so 
that  a person  from  reading  them  may  not  be  be- 


INTRODUCTION. 


Vll 


wildered  as  in  a labyrinth  of  complexity,  but  pro- 
ceed at  once  to  dye.  I have  endeavored  to  avoid 
such  a method  of  instruction,  and  I presume  that 
the  following  Receipts  will  meet  the  'wishes  of 
those  who  are  seeking  after  such  knowledge. — 
Having  myself  had  much  experience  in  dyeing 
nearly  all  sorts  of  Goods,  I have  given  every  class 
of  colors  and  the  different  shades  of  the  same 
color,  in  as  great  a variety  as  I could  find  calcu- 
lated to  be  useful. 

As  some  parties  have  wished  to  purchase  the 
“ Dyer’s  Guide,”  ivithout  the  Patterns , it  is  neces- 
sary to  say  that  only  a limited  number  was  pub- 
lished, and  the  edition  is  fast  running  out,  and 
that  the  few  copies  remaining  must  be  sold  with 
Patterns.  But  I have  endeavored  to  meet  their 
wishes  by  the  publication  of  the  following  Work, 
and,  as  the  price  is  so  low,  considering  the  import- 
ant information  given,  it  is  presumed  that  it  will 
be  serviceable  to  the  Trade,  not  excepting  those 
who  have  purchased  the  “ Guide,’ ’ on  account  of 
those  Receipts  which  refer  to  Silk,  Cotton,  and 
Wool  Dyeing.  D.  S. 


CONTENTS 


WOOL-DYEING. 


1 Fancy  Bloom 

2 Drab 

3 Heavy  Drab 

4 Slate  Color 

5 Liglu  Green 

6 Darker  Shade  of  Green 

7 Light  Blue 

8 Logwood  Blue 

9 Sage  Drab 

10  Black 

11  Fast  Blue  Black 

12  California  Color 

13  Darker  Shade  of  Califor- 

nia Color 

14  Fawn  Drab 

15  Dark  Fawn  Drab 

16  Madder  Drab 

17  Fuller  Shade  of  Madder 

Drab 

18  Dark  Shade  of  Madder 

Drab 

19  Blue  Slate  Color 

20  Crane  Blue 

21  Fancy  Bloom 

22  Silver  Drab 

23  Redder  Shade  of  Silver 

Drab 

24  Very  Light  Shade  of  Drab 

25  Light  Drab,  Yellower 

Shade  than  No.  24 

26  Vicuna  Drab 

27  Redder  Shade  of  Vicuna 

28  Fine  Red  Lavender 

29  Light  Olive 

30  Greener  Olive 


31  Redder  Shade  of  Olive 

32  Dark  Olive 

33  Darker  Green  Olive 

34  Dark  Green  Olive, 

Chromed 

35  True  Olive 

36  Vant  Color,  near  Canary 

Color 

37  Light  Brown 

38  Middle  Brown 

39  Darker  Brown 

40  True  Brown 

41  Light  Green 

42  Moss  Green 

43  Good  Bottle  Green, 

Chromed 

44  Invisible  Green,  Chromed 

45  Bottle  Green,  True  Color 

46  Violet,  or  Mulberry 

47  Fine  Claret 

48  Darker  Claret 

49  Russian  Brown 

50  Dark  Brown 

51  a.  Lac  Scarlet 

51  b.  Full  Pink 

52  Wine  Color 

53  Royal  Blue 

54  Grain  Crimson 

55  Grain  Scarlet 

56  Full  Yellow 

57  Orange 

58  Canary  Color 

59  Sky  Blue 

60  Saxon  Blue 


X 


CONTENTS 


COTTON 

1 Buff 

2 Buff 

3 Buff,  or  Nankin 

4 Straw  Color 

5 Fksh  Color 

0 Safllower  Pink 

7 Light  Pink 

8 Scarlet  * 

9 Light  Cinnamon  Brown 

10  Darker  Shade  of  Light 

Brown 

1 1 Dark  Shades  of  Brown 

12  Chrome  Yellow 

1 3 Darker  Shade  of  Chromed 

Yellow 

14  Full  Chrome  Orange 

15  Fast  Drab 

16  Fast  Blue 

17  Lavender 

18  Lilac 

1 9 Silver  Drab 

20  Good  Light  Drab 

21  Fuller  Shade  of  No.  20 

22  Light  Olive 

23  Darker  Olive 

24  Dark  Olive 

25  Full  Yellow  Drab 

26  Light  Buff 

27  Light  Blue 

28  Light  Extract  Green 

29  Middle  Shade  of  Green 

30  Dark  Shade  of  Green 

31  Chromed  and  Fast  Greens 

32  Light  Catechu  Brown 

33  Darker  Catechu 

34  Dark  Catechu  Brown 

35  Full  Dark  Catechu  Brown 

36  Full  Yellow  Scarlet 


DYEING. 

37  Barwood  Red 

38  Imitation  of  Turkey  Red 
. * 39  Various  Shades  of  Silver 

Drab 

40  Various  Shades  of  Fawn 

Drab 

41  Good  Black 

42  Good  Black,  to  stand  Mill- 

ing and  Scouring 

43  Fast  Black 

44  Fast  Purple 

45  Fast  Lavender 

46  Sky  Blue 

47  Bark  Yellow 

48  Other  Yellows 

49  Peachwood  Red 

50  Crimsons  and  Pinks 

51  Clarets 

52  Ruby 

53  Plum  Color 

54  Maroon 

55  Blue  Purple 

56  Full  Purple 

57  Saxon  Blue 

58  Flat  Royal  Blue 

59  Bright  Royal  Blue 

60  Victoria  Blue 

61  Napoleon  Blue 

62  On  Bleaching  Cotton 

63  How  to  spend  Catechu 
64'  How  to  make  the  Spirits 

for  Cotton  Dyeing  pur- 
poses 

65  On  Steeping 

66  IIow  to  spend  Annotta 

67  How  to  spend  Turmeric 

for  Cotton  Dyeing 

68  How  to  spend  Safllower 


CONTENTS 


XI 


SILK-DYEING. 


1 Lavender 

2 Lavender,  No.  2 

3 Lavender,  No.  3 

4 Spirit  Yellow 

5 Wold  Yellow 

6 Bark  Yellow 

7 Turmeric  Yellow 

8 Orange  Color 

9 Grain  Crimson 

10  Grain  Scarlet 

1 1 Sky  Blues  from  Extract 

12  Sky  Blues  from  Prussiate 

13  Mazarine  Blue 

13  b.  French  Blue 

14  Royal  Blue 

15  Blue  Black 

10  Common  Full  Black 

17  Browns  of  dilferent  Shades 

18  Dark  Browns  of  dilferent 

Shades 

19  California  Browns,  and  Ol- 

ive 

20  Red  Browns,  or  Claret 

Browns 

21  Another  mode  of  Dyeing 

Red  Browns 

22  Acid  Brown 

23  Light  Claret  Brown 

24  Dark  Claret  Brown 

25  Clarets  and  Chocolates 

26  Another  mode  of  Dyeing 

Clarets  and  Chocolates 

27  Mock  Crimsons,  dyed  dif- 

ferent ways 

28  Olive 

29  Purples 


30  Maroons 

31  Maroons,  another  way 

32  Ruby 

33  Daunce  Black 

34  Violet 

3G  Light  Green 

37  Middle  Green 

38  Dark  Green 

39  Bottle  Green 

40  Other  Greens,  of  dilferent 

Shades 

41  Fast  Green,  with  a Blue 

Bottom 

42  Light  Olives,  of  dilferent 

Shades 

43  Flesh  Color,  or  Buff 

44  Salmon 

45  Gold  Color 

4G  Yellow -Fawn  Drab 

47  Fawn  Drab 

48  Flat  Drab 

49  Heavy  Drabs 

50  Slate  Drab 

51  Bronze  Drab 

52  Another  mode  of  Dyeing 

Drabs 

53  Sour  Browns 

54  French  White 

55  Pinks  from  Safflower 

56  Pinks  from  Peachwood 

57  Grain  Pinks 

58  Mock  Scarlet 

59  Real  Paris  Blacks 

GO  Napoleon  Blue,  and  how 
to  make  the  Spirits  for 
the  same 


1 

2 

3 

4 


WOOLLEN  YARN  DYEING. 


Pea  Green,  very  fine  Shade 
Silver  Drab 
California  Color 
Bright  Vicuna 


5 Light  Fiery  Brown 

6 Middle  Olive 

7 Red  Lavender 

8 Red  Drab 


Xll 


CONTENTS 


WOOLLEN  YARN 

9  Ruby 

10  Wine  Color 

11  Fine  Claret 

12  Yellow  Brown 

13  Middle  Green 

14  Good  Brown 

15  Dark  Purple 

16  Sea  Green 

17  Dark  Brown 

18  Dark  Drab 

19  Maroon 

20  Scarlet 

21  Cinnamon  Brown 

22  Grain  Crimson 

23  Full  Pink 

24  Salmon  Color 

25  Full  Grain  Rose 

26  Light  Buff 

27  Light  Yellow 

28  Orange 

29  Bottle  Green 

30  Invisible  Green 

31  Dark  Blue 

32  Blue  Black 

33  Full  Black 

34  Royal  Blue 


DYEING — Continued. 

35  Apple  Green 

36  Light  Olive 

37  Dark  Olive 

38  Brown  Olive 

39  Fawn  Drab 

40  Dove  Color 

41  Blue  Lavender 

42  Sky  Blue 

43  Saxon  Blue 

44  Sage  Drab 

45  Chromed  Green 

46  Dark  Chromed  Green 

47  Light  and  Dark  Claret 

48  Mock  Crimson 

49  Grain  Maroon 

50  Dark  Chocolate 

51  Heavy  Brown 

52  Dark  Claret  Brown 
63  Darker.  Claret  Brown 

54  Full  Red  Brown 

55  Full  Yellow  Brown 

56  Darker  Yellow  Brown 

57  Dark  Olive 

68  Darker  Shade  of  Olive 
59  Very  Dark  Claret 


WORSTED  YARN  DYEING. 


1 Slate  Purple 

2 Red  Purple 

3 Full  Red  Purple 

4 Royal  Blue 

5 Grain  Maroon 

6 Mock  Crimson 

7 Claret 

8 Light  Vicuna 

9 Dark  Vicuna 

10  Oak  Drab 

11  Bottle  Green 

12  Apple  Green 

13  Knot  Green 

14  Sea  Green 


15  Dark  Sea  Green 

16  Mock  Maroon 

17  Green  Olive 

18  Dark  Olive 

19  Dahlia 

20  Ruby 

21  Apple  Green 

22  Invisible  Green 

23  Bottle  Green 

24  Brown  Olive 

25  Green  Olive 

26  Canary  Color 

27  Full  Yellow 

28  Orange 


CONTENTS 


Xlll 


WORSTED  YARN  DYEING— Continued. 


29  Grain  Crimson 

41  Light  Puce 

30  Rose 

42  Slate  Drab 

31  Pink 

43  Sage  Drab 

32  Imitation  of  Indigo  Blue 

44  Red  Cinnamon  Brown 

33  Light  Brown 

45  Dark  Brown 

34  Claret  Brown 

46  Dark  Red  Brown 

35  Snuff  Color 

47  Grain  Scarlet 

36  Full  Black 

48  Salmon 

37  Blue  Black 

49  Sky  BJue 

38  Fawn  Drab 

50  Saxon  Blue 

39  Lilac 

-51  Dove  Color 

40  Lavender 

WOOLLEN-DYEING. 

1 Grain  Scarlet 

28  Royal  Blue,  Gold  Lists 

2 Scarlet 

29  Green 

3 Scarlet 

30  Purple 

4 Scarlet 

31  Dark  Brown 

5 Lac  Scarlet 

32  Dark  Claret  Brown 

6 Scarlet 

33  Black 

7 Scarlet 

34  Peachwood  Red 

8 Orange 

35  Green 

9 Salmon 

36  Chestnut  Brown 

10  Salmon 

37  Dark  Green 

11  Grain  Rose 

38  Claret  Brown 

12  Gold  Color 

39  Chromed  Green 

13  Grain  Rose 

40  Claret 

14  Full  Red  Crimson 

41  Brown  Olive 

15  Light  Rose 

42  Mule  Drab 

16  Rose  Color 

43  Stone  Drab 

17  Yellow 

44  Fawn  Drab 

18  Full  Yellow,  or 

45  Nut  Brown 

19  Sky  Blue 

46  Good  Light  Claret 

20  Dove  Color 

47  Good  Crimson 

21  Crimson 

48  Good  Logwood  Blue 

22  Green 

49  Logwood  Blue 

23  Royal  Blue 

50  Yarn  and  Woollen  Pieoc 

24  Dark  Royal  Blue 

Dyeing 

25  Royal  Blue 

51  New  mode  of  Dyeing  Log- 

26 Royal  Blue 

wood  Blues 

27  Royal  Blue 

52  Maroon 

2 


XIV 


CONTENTS 


1 

9 

3 

4 

5 
G 

7 

8 
9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 
1G 

17 

18 

19 

20 
21 


DAMASK-DYEING. 


rink  and  White 
Dink 

Salmon  and  White 
Salmon 
Rose  Color 
Rose  Color 

White  and  Ponque  Color 

Ponque 

Grain  Crimson 

Grain  Crimson 

Bull'  and  White 

Buff 

Straw  Color  and  White 
Straw  Color 
Yellow  and  AVhite 
Yellow 

Lac  Scarlet  and  AVhite 
Lac  Scarlet 

Grain  Scarlet  and  AVIiite 

Grain  Scarlet 

Light  Orange  and  AA'kite 


22  Orange 

23  Sky  Blue  and  AVhite 

24  Sky  Blue 

25  Saxon  Blue  and  AVhite 
2G  Saxon  Blue 

27  Light  Green  and  AVhite 

28  Light  Green 

29  Middle  Green  and  AAThite 

30  Middle  Green 

31  Cinnamon  Brown  and 

AVhite 

32  Cinnamon  Brown 

33  Light  Fawn 

34  Darker  Fawn 

35  Light  Silver  Drab 

36  Darker  Silver  Drab 

37  Mock  Crimson 

38  Sea  Green 

39  Coffee  Brown 

40  Black 


MOREEN-DYEING. 


1 Light  Sky  Blue 

2 Dark  Sky  Blue 

3 Full  Orange 

4 Light  Orange 

5 Full  Grain  Scarlet 
G Grain  Scarlet 

7 Light  Lac  Scarlet 

8 Full  Lac  Scarlet 

9 Light  Yellow 

10  Full  Yellow 

11  Straw  Color 

12  Buff 

13  Light  Grain  Crimson 

14  Dark  Grain  Crimson 

15  Coffee  Brown 
1G  Sea  Green 

1 7 Mock  Crimson 

18  Black 

19  Light  Silver  Drab 


20  Full  Silver  Drab 

21  Light  Fawn 

22  Darker  Fawn 

23  Cinnamon  Brown 

24  Darker  Cinnamon  Brown 

25  Middle  Green 
2G  Dark  Green 

27  Light  Green 

28  Darker  Green 

29  Light  Saxon  Blue 

30  Dark  Saxon  Blue 

31  Light  Red  Crimson 

32  Full  Red  Crimson 

33  Light  Rose  Color 

34  Full  Rose  Color 

35  Light  Salmon 
3G  Full  Salmon 

37  Light  Pink 

38  Full  Pink 


CONTENTS 


XV 


TWO-COLORED  DAMASK-DYEING. 


1 Scarlet  and  rink 

2 Scarlet  and  Yellow 

3 Scarlet  and  Flesh  Color 

4 Scarlet  and  Salmon 

5 Scarlet  and  Rose  Color 

6 Light  Green  and  Pink 

7 Middle  Green  and  Pink 

8 Green  and  Yellow 

9 Green  and  Salmon 

1 0 Saxon  Blue  and  Rose  Color 

11  Sky  Blue  and  Pink 

12  Sky  Blue  and  Pink,  ano- 


ther way 

13  Blues  and  Crimsons,  of 

different  sorts 

14  Green  and  Crimsons 

15  Dark  Blue  and  Orange 
1G  Dark  Blue  and  Light 

Orange 

17  Ruby  and  Blue 

18  Yellow  and  Blue 

19  Orange  and  Blue 

20  Scarlet  and  Common  Blue 

21  Coffee  and  Royal  Blue 


1 Scarlet 

2 Light  Orange 

3 Full  Orange 

4 Light  Yellow 

5 Full  Yellow 

G Grain  Crimson 

7 Ash  Drab 

8 Silver  Drab 

9 Fawn  Drab 

10  Saxon  Blue 

11  Maroon 

12  Light  Brown 


CAMLET-DYEING. 

13  Dark  Brown 

14  Claret  Brown 

15  Light  Purple 
1G  Middle  Purple 

17  Dark  Purple 

18  Another  mode  of  Dyeing 

Purples 

19  Blue  Black 

20  Full  Black 

21  Royal  Blue 

22  Green 

23  Bottle  Green 


LASTING 

1 Light  Yellow 

2 Full  Yellow 

3 Silver  Drab 

4 Ash  Drab 

5 Fawn  Drab 

6 Saxon  Blue 

7 Grain  Crimson 

8 Scarlet 

9 Light  Orange 

10  Full  Orange 

11  Maroon 

12  Light  Brown 


DYEING. 

13  Green 

14  Bottle  Green 

15  Blue  Black 
1G  Full  Black 

17  Claret  Brown 

18  Dark  Brown 

19  Light  Purple 

20  Middle  Purple 

21  Dark  Purple 

22  Royal  Blue 

23  Another  Mode  of  Dyeing 

Purples 


XVI 


CONTENTS 


SHOT  COBOURG  DYEING. 


1 Blue  ancl  rink 

2 Yellow  and  Blue 

3 Orange  and  Blue 

4 Crimson  and  Blue 

5 Ruby  and  Blue 

G Lavender  and  Pink 

7 Green  and  Pink 

8 Lavender  and  Crimson 
0 Dark  Sky  and  Crimson 

10  Light  Green  and  Salmon 


11  Green  and  Pink 

12  Green  and  Claret 

13  Green  and  Purple 

14  Black  and  Crimson 

15  Light  Olive  and  Crimson 

16  Orange  and  Purple 

17  Royal  Blue 

18  Green  and  Orange,  Full 

Pink 


SILK  STRIPED  ORLEANS  FROM  BLACK,  WHITE,  AND 
COLORED  WARPS. 


1 Light  Olive  from  Black 

Warp 

2 Dark  Olive  from  Black 

Warp 

3 Brown  Olive  from  Black 

Warp 

4 Red  Brown  from  Purple 

Warp 

5 Dark  Claret  from  Black 

Warp 

6 Chromed  Brown  from  Pur- 

ple Warp 

7 Claret  Brown  from  Claret 

Warp 

8 Dark  Claret  Brown  from 

Claret  Warp 

1)  Chromed  Claret  from  Pur- 
ple Warp 

10  Dark  Claret  from  Purple 
Warp 


1 1 Ruby  from  Violet  Warp 

12  Light  Claret  from  Purple 

Warp 

13  Darker  Claret  from  Claret 

Warp 

1 4 Adelaide  from  Black  W arp 

15  Dark  Mulberry  from  Bl’k 

Warp 

1 0 Adelaide  from  Black  Warp 

17  Violet  from  Violet  Warp 

18  Royal  Blue  from  White 

Warp 

19  Lavender  from  White 

Warp 

20  Red  Brown  from  Purple 

Warp 

21  Green  from  White  Warp 

22  Solid  Grain  Pink  from 

White  Warp 


COLORED  ORLEANS  FROM  BLACK  WARPS. 


1 Light  Brown 

2 Chromed  Brown 

3 Claret 

4 Dark  Claret 


5 Blue  Claret 

6 Violet 

7 Adelaide 

8 Dark  Claret  Brown 


CONTENTS 


XVII 


COLORED  ORLEANS  FROM  BLACK  WARPS— Continued. 


9  Dark  Brown  Olive 

10  Green  Olive 

11  Darker  Green  Olive 

12  Chromed  Green 


13  Invisible  Green 

14  Blue  Black 

15  Full  Black 


COLORED  ORLEANS  AND  COBOURGS  FROM  WHITE 

WARPS. 


1 Cinnamon  Brown 

2 Red  Brown 

3 Coffee  Brown 

4 Light  Claret 

5 Middie  Claret 
G Dark  Claret 

7 Chromed  Claret 

8 Adelaide 

9 Mulberry 
40  Apple  Green 

1 1 Light  Olive 

12  Dark  Green  Olive 

13  Brown  Olive 

14  Dark  Green 


15  Invisible  Green 

16  Red  Claret 

17  Red  Brown 

18  Dark  Brown 

19  Silver  Drab 

20  Dark  Silver  Drab 

21  Stone  Drab 

22  Madder  Drab 

23  Lavender  Drab 

24  Pink 

25  Sea  Green 

26  Sky  Blue 

27  Full  Black 


COLORED 

1 Royal  Blue 

2 Dark  Royal  Blue 

3 Grain  Maroon 

4 Full  Grain  Crimson 

5 Pink 

6 Salmon 

7 Grain  Rose 

8 Light  Orange 

9 Yellow 

10  Grain  Scarlet 

11  Lac  Scarlet 

12  Light  Pea  Green 

13  Sea  Green 

14  Apple  Green 

15  Bottle  Green 

16  Invisible  Green 

17  Chromed  Green 


MERINOS. 

18  Chromed  Invisible  Green 

19  Purple 

20  Light  Chromed  Purple 

21  Violet 

22  Ruby 

23  Maroon 

24  Light  Claret 

25  Middle  Claret 

26  Full  Claret 

27  Dark  Green  Olive 

28  Brown  Olive  • 

29  Full  Red  Brown 

30  Dark  Coffee  Brown 

31  Adelaide 

32  Mulberry 

33  Light  Sky  Blue 

34  Dark  Sky  Blue 


XV111 


CONTENTS 


COLORED  MERINOS— Continued. 


35  Lavender 

36  Red  Lavender 

37  Madder  Drab 

38  Full  Drab 


39  Silver  Drab 

40  Blue  Black 

41  Full  Black 


WOOLLEN  SHAWL  DYEING. 


1  Royal  Blue 
' 2 Bloomy  Royal  Blue 

A3  Light  Rose 

4 Full  Rose 

5 Light  Salmon 

6 Full  Salmon 

7 Melon 

8 Yellow 


9 Orange 

10  Yellow  Buff 

11  Light  Buff 

12  Full  Buff 

13  Scarlet 

14  Lavender 

15  Sky  Blue 


PADDING. 


1 Estariazer  Standard 

2 Red  Brown  Standard 

3 Dark  Purple  Standard 

4 Drab  Standard 

5 Drab  Standard 

6 Gray,  or  Quaker  Drab 

Standard 

7 Slate  Standard 

8 Dove  Standard,  old  way 

9 Dark  Dove  Standard,  new 

way 

10  Light  Dove  Standard 

1 1 Fawn  Drab  Standard 

12  Lavender  Standard 

13  Sulphate  of  Indigo 

14  Blue  Standard 

15  Bloom  Pink  Standard 

16  Royal  Blue  Standard 

17  Prussiate  of  Tin 

18  Claret  Standard 

19  To  Pad  Claret 

20  To  Pad  Black 

21  To  make  Acetate  of  Copper 

22  Stone  Drab  Standard 

23  Orange  Standard 


24  Light  Olive  Standard 

25  To  Pad  Dark  Shades  of 

Olive 

26  Lilac 

27  Slate  Standard 

28  First  Shade,  Yellow  Stone 

Drab 

29  Second  Shade,  Stone  Drab 
60  Third  Shade 

31  Cinnamon  Standard 

32  To  Pad  Cinnamon 

33  To  Pad  Estariazer  Color 

34  To  Pad  Slate  Colors 

35  Dark  Green  Standard 

36  Pale  Green 

37  Sky  Blue  Standard 

38  Lavender  Standard 

39  Drab  Preparation,  or  an- 

other Mode  of  Padding 
Drab 

40  To  Pad  different  Shades 

of  Drab 

41  Sky  Blue 

42  Royal  Blue 


CONTENTS 


XIX 


SILK  WARP,  SKEIN,  AND 

1 Black 

2 Scarlet 

3 Green 

4 Claret 

5 Brown 

6 Dark  Red 

7 Orange 

8 Amber 

9 Pink 

10  Light  Pink 

11  Peach 

12  Light  Peach 

13  Dark  Purple 

14  Light  Purple 

15  Blue 

16  Dark  Brown 

17  Light  Brown 

18  Poppy  Red 

19  Dark  Fawn 

20  Light  Fawn 

21  Dark  Drab 

22  Light  Drab 

23  Dark  Dahlia 

24  Light  Dahlia 

25  Dark  Blue 

26  Light  Blue 

27  Dark  Green 

28  Light  Green 

29  Dark  Slate 

30  Light  Slate 

31  Red  Ruby 

32  Maze 


HANDKERCHIEF  PRINTING. 

33  Dark  Lavender 

34  Light  Lavender 

35  Dark  Maroon 

36  Light  Maroon 

37  Dark  Grain  Crimson 

38  Pontia 

39  Rose 

40  Dark  Apricot 

41  Light  Apricot 

42  Dark  Red  Purple 

43  Light  Red  Furple 

44  Dark  Orange 

45  Light  Orange 

46  Dark  Olive 

47  Light  Olive 

48  Dark  Cinnamon  Brown 
- 49  Light  Cinnamon  Brown 

50  Dark  Yellow 

51  Light  Yellow 

52  Orange  Brown 

53  Light  Brown 

54  How  to  make  Bronze 

Peacliwood 

55  To  make  Bronze  Logwood 

56  Copper  Liquor 

57  Annotta  Liquor 

58  Copperas  Buff 

59  Ammoniacal  Liquor 

60  Extract  of  Indigo,  for 

Printing 

61  Dark  Prussiate  Liquor 

62  Sulphate  of  Indigo 


NATURE  AND  USE  OF  DYEWARES. 


Alum 

Annotta 

Archil 

Ammonia 

Argol 

Super  Argol 

Camwood 

Catechu 


Cochineal 

Chrome,  or  Bichromate  of 
Potass 
Cudbear 

Chemic,  or  Sulphate  of  Indigo 
French  Berry,  or  Persian 
Berry 

Fustic,  or  Young  Fustic 


XX 


CONTENTS 


NATURE  AND  USE  OF  DYEWARES— Continued. 


Galls 

Indigo 

Kermes  or  Lac  Dye 

Logwood 

Madder 

Nitric  Acid,  or  Aqua  Fortis 

Nitrates 

Oxalic  Tin 


Peachwood 
Prussiate  of  Potass 
Quercitron  Bark 
Safflower 

Saunders,  or  Red  Sandal 
Sapan  Wood 
Sumach. 

Turmeric 


EXAMINATION  OF  WATER  BY  .TESTS,  &c. 


THE  DYERS’ 


INSTRUCTOR. 


WOOL-DYEING. 

— • — 

No.  1. 

140  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— FANCY  BLOOM. 

Boil  1J  hour  with  1 pound  of  Logwood. 

1J  lb.  of  Barwood. 

Sadden  with  8 ozs.  of  Alum. 

The  Alum  must  be  melted  before  it  is  thrown 
upon  the  wool,  and  then  well  stirred  in,  so  as  to 
make  it  as  even  as  possible.  Then  boil  half  an 
hour  longer. 

It  is  better  to  melt  the  saddening,  whether  it 
be  Alum,  Copperas,  or  Blue  Vitriol,  as  by  this 
means  it  sooner  penetrates  the  body  of  the  wool, 
and  does  not  leave  a deadness  in  some  parts,  as 
is  generally  the  case  when  the  saddening  is  put 
on  in  the  crystal  state. 

3 


26 


WOOL-DYEING. 


No.  2. 

140  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— DRAB. 

Boil  with  | lb.  of  Barwood. 
j lb.  of  Logwood. 

2 ozs.  of  Fustic. 

Sadden  with  8 ozs.  of  Copperas. 

And  then  spread  well  out. 


No.  3. 

140  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— HEAVY  DRAB. 

Boil  with  8 ozs.  of  Logwood. 

2 lbs.  of  Barwood. 

1 lb.  of  Fustic. 

Sadden  with  1 lb.  of  Copperas. 

Spread  out. 


No.  4. 

130  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— SLATE  COLOR. 

Boil  with  8 ozs.  of  Logwood. 

2J  lbs.  of  Barwood. 

Sadden  with  8 ozs.  of  Alum. 

Spread  out. 

This  shade  may  be  dyed  by  first  boiling  the 
■wool  in  1 lb.  of  Chrome  for  about  an  hour,  then 


WOOL-DYEING. 


27 


wash  and  fill  it  up  in  a separate  pan,  with  about 
1 lb.  of  Logwood,  and  8 ozs.  of  Cudbear. 

But  as  this  mode  of  dyeing  Drabs  will  not  stand 
Milling  and  Scouring  so  well  as  the  former,  I can- 
not recommend  it,  though  some  wool-dyers  follow 
this  receipt. 


No.  5. 

130  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— LIGHT  GREEN. 

Boil  one  hour  with  1 lb.  of  Chrome  and  8 ozs. 
of  Alum.  Then  run  off  the  Liquor,  and  wash  well 
in  clean  water;  dye  off  with  20  lbs.  of  Fustic  and 
8 lbs.  of  Logwood,  and  then  boil  to  shade  re- 
quired. 

By  adding  more  Logwood  in  the  finishing,  any 
shade  of  Dark  Green  may  be  got.  When  not  Yel- 
low enough,  add  a little  more  Fustic. 

The  colors  dyed  by  means  of  Chroming  are 
very  difficult  to  distinguish  from  those  of  fast  In- 
digo colors,  and  can  only  be  distinguished  by  a 
strong  Acid : I shall  insert  a few  of  them  to  ac- 
commodate those  who  are  not  so  much  acquainted 
with  the  nature  of  Chrome.  From  this  prepara- 
tion or  Mordant  almost  any  shade  may  be  pro- 
duced, varying  from  a Light  Drab  to  a Dark 
Brown,  Dark  Green,  Dark  Purple,  Dark  Claret, 
or  Dark  Olive.  Peachwood,  Logwood,  Fustic, 


28 


WOOL-DYEING. 


Camwood,  Barwood,  and  Madder  will  work  after 
it.  Peachwood  itself  will  make  a good  Claret 
after  it,  producing  a blue  shade  ; but  when  too 
Blue,  a little  Alum  will  redden  it,  and  will  work 
as  solid  and  even  a color  as  by  any  other  mode  of 
preparation. 


No.  6. 

130  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— A DARKER  SHADE 

OF  GREEN. 

Prepare  as  above  with  1 oz.  of  Chrome. 

8 ozs.  of  Alum. 

Boil  one  hour,  then  take  it  out,  and  let  it  soak  an 
hour  or  two,  and  then  fill  it  up  in  another  water 
with 

12  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

14  lbs.  of  Fustic. 


No.  7. 

TO  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— LIGHT  BLUE. 

Prepare  with  8 ozs.  of  Alum. 

8 ozs.  of  Chrome. 

Fill  up  with  8 lbs.  of  Ground  Logwood,  or  Chipped 
Logwood  boiled  up  in  bags. 


WOOL-DYEING. 


29 


No.  8.  *» 

200  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— LOGWOOD  BLUE. 

Prepare  or  boil  one  hour  with  1 lb.  of  Chrome. 

4 lbs.  of  Alum. 

1 lb.  of  Red  Argol. 

Clean  and  finish  with  35  lbs.  of  Logwood,  and  boil 
half  an  hour  in  the  finishing. 

This  is  a good  imitation  of  Indigo,  and  it  will 
bear  exposure  to  the  atmosphere.  I have  taken 
this  receipt  from  my  Practical  Dyers  Guide.  It 
has  been  used  by  some  parties  who  have  pur- 
chased the  Guide , and  they  state  that  this  Re- 
ceipt alone  is  worth  the  price  of  the  Guide. 


No.  9. 

50  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— SAGE  DRAB. 

Prepare  as  above  with  8 ozs.  of  Chrome. 

8 ozs.  of  Argol. 

4 ozs.  of  Alum. 

Finish  with  1 lb.  of  Logwood. 

8 ozs.  of  Fustic. 

If  not  red  enough,  add  a handful  of  Cudbear, 
and  boil  an  hour. 


8* 


30 


WOOL-DYEING. 


No.  10. 

160  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— BLACK. 

Boil  one  hour  with  4 lbs.  of  Chrome. 

4 lbs.  of  Alum. 

2 lbs.  of  Bed  Argol. 

Finish  in  a clean  vessel  with  40  lbs.  of  Logwood. 
4 lbs.  of  Barwood. 

The  wood  must  be  well  boiled  up  in  bags  before 
the  wool  is  entered,  cool  down  a little,  and  enter 
at  about  180°,  then  boil  the  wool  about  an  hour. 

This  is  a good  Black,  and  on  this  principle 
almost  all  Blacks  are  dyed,  in  stuff  goods,  and 
cloth,  and  wool;  but  some  dyers  think  it  is  not  so 
durable  as  other  modes  of  Dyeing  Black.  There- 
fore I will  now  give  two  or  three  different  modes 
of  dyeing  Blacks  on  wools. 


No.  A. 

Another  mode  is  to  boil  the  wool  with  Cam- 
wood (a  sufficient  quantity  for  the  bloom)  for  about 
two  hours,  then  sadden  with  Copperas,  and  let  it 
lie  in  this  all  night;  next  morning,  boil  it  in  Log- 
wood for  about  the  same  time  as  before,  and  then 
sadden  again  with  Copperas. 

This  mode  is  preferred  by  some,  being  a much 


WOOL-DYEING. 


81 


finer  Black,  and  will  stand  Milling  without  losing 
any  of  its  color.  By  the  former  mode  it  assumes 
a slight  green  appearance  in  the  Milling,  and  con- 
sequently loses  a little  of  its  darkness. 

The  best  Black  is  that  which  is  dyed  with  In- 
digo in  the  following  manner : — 


No.  B. 

First  redden  with  Camwood  as  before,  but  with- 
out saddening,  and  then  fill  up  to  the  shade  in  the 
woad  vat. 

Either  Blue  Black  or  full  Black  may  be  dyed 
in  this  way,  and  it  is  certainly  the  best  and  firm- 
est  mode  of  dyeing  cloth.  It  will  stand  exposure 
to  the  atmosphere,  and  resist  any  acid  applied  to 
it  for  a test,  neither  fading  nor  being  diminished 
in  any  measure ; even  Sulphuric  Acid  of  double 
strength  will  not  injure  the  color,  but  rather 
brighten  it  than  otherwise. 

This  is  an  expensive  mode  of  dyeing  a Black, 
but  it  is  worth  any  amount  charged  for  it,  on 
account  of  its  firmness  and  durability. 


32 


WOOL-DYEING. 


No.  11. 

140  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— FAST  BLUE  BLACK. 

Boil  with  10  lbs.  of  Camwood. 

3 lbs.  of  Alum. 

2 lbs.  of  Bed  Argol. 

And  leave  in  the  pan  all  night,  then  blue  up 
about  one-half  in  the  vat,  and  then  in  another 
pan  boil  it  one  hour  with 

40  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

And  sadden  with  2 lbs.  of  Copperas. 

No.  12. 

160  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— CALIFORNIA 
COLOR. 

Prepare  or  boil  one  hour  with  2 lbs.  of  Chrome. 

2 lbs.  of  Red  Argol. 

2 lbs.  of  Alum. 

Clean  and  finish  in  another  vessel  with  4 lbs.  of 
Camwood. 

40  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

30  lbs.  of  Crop  Madder. 

If  a brighter  shade  be  required,  add  1 Gill  of  Oil 
of  Vitriol. 

All  the  various  shades  of  this  color  may  be  dyed 
after  this  mode,  by  increasing  or  diminishing  the 
same  wares,  according  to  shade  required. 


WOOL-DYEING. 


83 


No.  18. 

120  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— DARKER  SHADE  OF 
CALIFORNIA  COLOR. 

Another  mode  of  dyeing  this  color  is  as  fol- 
lows : — 

Boil  two  hours  with  20  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

24  lbs.  of  Crop  Madder. 

12  lbs.  of  Camwood. 

* 

Sadden  with  4 ozs.  of  Copperas. 


No.  14. 

66  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— FAWN  DRAB. 

Boil  with  4 ozs.  of  Logwood. 

1}  lbs.  of  Barwood. 

Sadden  with  8 ozs.  of  Alum. 

Get  out  when  boiled  to  the  shade,  and  spread. 


No.  15. 

TO  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— DARK  FAWN  DRAB. 

Boil  with  3 lbs.  of  Barwood. 

3J  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

8 ozs.  of  Logwood. 

Sadden  with  2 lbs.  of  Copperas. 


34 


WOOL-DYEING. 


No.  16. 

170  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— MADDER  DRAB. 

Boil  with  3J  lbs.  of  Barwood. 

3 lbs.  of  Fustic. 

3 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Sadden  with  1 lb.  of  Copperas. 


No.  17. 

56  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— FULLER  SHADE  OF 
MADDER  DRAB. 

Boil  with  2J  lbs.  of  Barwood. 

3J  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

8 ozs.  of  Logwood. 

Sadden  with  2 lbs.  of  Copperas. 


No.  18. 

56  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— DARK  SHADE  OF 
MADDER  DRAB. 

Boil  with  4 lbs.  of  Barwood. 

5 lbs.  of  Fustic. 

2 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Sadden  with  3 lbs.  of  Copperas. 


WOOL-DYEING. 


35 


• No.  19. 

150  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— BLUE  SLATE 
COLOR. 

Stuff  or  Boil  with  5 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

8 ozs.  of  Fustic. 

Boil  one  hour  and  sadden  with  12  ozs.  of  Alum. 


No.  20. 

120  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— CRANE  BLUE. 

♦ % 

Stuff  with  16  lbs.  of  Logwood,  boil  f of  an  hour. 
Sadden  with  1J  lb.  of  Alum,  and  boil  to  pattern. 


No.  21. 

90  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— FANCY  BLOOM. 

Boil  one  hour  with  8 ozs.  of  Cudbear. 

If  lb.  of  Logwood. 

1J  lb.  of  Barwood. 

Sadden  with  1 lb.  of  Alum. 


No.  22. 

70  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— SILVER  DRAB. 

Stuff  with  10  ozs.  of  Logwood. 

8 ozs.  of  Camwood. 

Sadden  with  3 ozs.  of  Copperas. 


36 


WOOL-DYEING. 


No.  23.  • 

120  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— REDDER  SHADE  OF 
SILVER  DRAB. 

Stuff  with  18  ozs.  of  Logwood. 

10  ozs.  of  Cudbear. 

3 ozs.  of  Copperas. 


No.  24. 

60  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— A VERY  LIGHT 
SHADE  OF  DRAB. 

Dye  with  1 oz.  of  Chemic  or  good  Extract. 

4 ozs.  of  Alum. 

10  ozs.  of  Logwood. 

1 oz.  of  Copperas. 

Boil  one  hour. 


No.  25. 

120  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— LIGHT  DRAB,  YEL- 
LOWER SHADE  THAN  No.  24. 

Dye  with  6 ozs.  of  Fustic. 

3 ozs.  of  Logwood. 

2 ozs.  of  Sumach. 

J oz.  of  Chemic. 

8 ozs.  of  Alum. 

2 ozs.  of  Copperas. 


WOOL-DYEING. 


37 


I 


* No.  26. 

70  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— VICUNA  DRAB. 

Stuff  with  5 lbs.  of  Fustic. 

5 lbs.  of  Mull  Madder. 

5 lbs.  of  Crop  Madder. 

3 lbs.  of  CamwTood. 

Sadden  with  7 ozs.  of  Copperas. 


No.  27. 

50  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— REDDER  SHADE 
OF  VICUNA. 

Stuff  with  5 lbs.  of  Fustic. 

5 lbs.  of  Mull  Madder. 

1 lb.  of  Crop  Madder. 

2J  lbs.  of  Camwood. 

Sadden  with  7 ozs.  of  Copperas. 

These  are  shades  somewhat  of  the  California 
color. 


4 


38 


. WOOL-DYEING. 


. > No.  28. 

100  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— FINE  RED 
LAVENDER. 

Stuff  with  5 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

3 lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

8 ozs.  of  Camwood. 

# 

Sadden  with  10  oz.  of  Copperas. 

When  shades  are  not  required  so  bright,  but 
rather  of  a flat  and  dead  lavender,  add  a little 
Fustic  in  the  stuffing. 


No.  29. 

120  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— LIGHT  OLIVE. 

Stuff  with  40  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

3 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

2 lbs.  of  Camwood. 

Sadden  with  8 ozs.  of  Copperas. 


No.  30. 

120  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— GREENER  OLIVE. 

Stuff  with  T lbs.  of  Fustic.  * 

5 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

5 lbs.  of  Mull  Madder. 

6 ozs.  of  Camwood. 

Sadden  with  12  ozs.  of  Copperas. 


WOOL-DYEING. 


89 


No.  31. 

120  lbs.  OF  WOOL— REDDER  SHADE  OF 

OLIVE. 

Stuff  with  30  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

20  lbs.  of  Camwood. 

20  lbs.  of  Mull  Madder. 

7 lbs.  of  Crop  Madder. 

20  ozs.  of  Logwood. 

Sadden  with  20  ozs.  of  Copperas. 

No.  32. 

135  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— DARK  OLIVE. 

Stuff  with  60  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

2 ozs.  of  Alum. 

7J  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

10  lbs.  of  Madder. 

Sadden  with  1J  lb.  of  Copperas. 

J lb.  of  Blue  Vitriol. 

No.  33. 

140  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— DARKER  GREEN 

OLIVE. 

Stuff  with  50  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

4 lbs.  of  Camwood 
9 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Boil  well  for  an  hour  and  a half. 

Sadden  with  1 lb.  of  Alum. 

2 lbs.  of  Copperas. 

Boil  well  in  the  saddening. 


40 


WOOL-DYEING. 


, No.  84. 

140  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— DARK  GREEN 
OLIVE,  CHROMED. 

Prepare  or  boil  an  hour  with  1J  lb.  of  Chrome. 

12  ozs.  of  Alum. 

Then  spread  it  on  the  floor  all  night,  and  next 
morning 

Fill  up  with  45  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

12  lbs.  of  Camwood. 

6 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

This  shade  of  Olive  is  similar  to  that  of  No. 
38,  but  dyed  in  quite  a different  manner.  Some 
dyers  think  that  the  latter  mode  is  the  better  and 
the  faster  color,  but  I think  it  is  not  so  durable 
as  the  former. 

The  Olive  shades  are  mostly  dyed  according  to 
one  of  these  two  modes,  but  neither  can  be  called 
fast  Olives. 

The  Fast  Olive  is  dyed  by  being  first  dyed 
Blue  in  the  Woad  vat,  and  then  filled  up  after  in 
the  following  manner  : — 


WOOL-DYEING. 


41 


No.  85. 

12  stones  OF  WOOL.— TRUE  OLIVE. 

After  blueing  to  about  a middle  shade  in  the 
Woad  vat, 

Stuff  with  100  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

20  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

3 lbs.  of  Madder. 

2J  lbs.  of  Alum. 

Sadden  with  2J  lbs.  of  Copperas. 

Darker  or  lighter  shades  may  be  dyed  by  blue- 
ing darker  or  lighter  in  the  vat,  according  to  shade 
required. 

Any  shade  of  true  Olive  may  be  dyed  after  this 
manner,  even  down  to  a Sage  Drab,  by  blueing 
light  enough  in  the  Woad  vat. 


No.  36. 

80  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— V ANT  COLOR, 
NEARLY  CANARY  COLOR. 

Prepare  with  1 lb.  of  Chrome. 

8 ozs.  of  Alum. 

Boil  an  hour,  get  the  wool  out,  and  let  it  drain 
well,  then  fill  up  in  a vessel  of  clean  water,  with 

20  lbs.  of  Chipped  Fustic. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 

4* 


42 


WOOL- DYEING. 


If  a redder  shade  is  required,  add  a little  Bar- 
wood,  as  it  will  cause  it  to  have  more  of  an  Orange 
hue. 

This  is  not  Canary  color,  which  is  dyed  with 
Bark  or  Young  Fustic;  nor  is  it  so  lively,  but  re- 
sembles the  light  shade  of  California  color. 


No.  37. 

140  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— LIGHT  BROWN. 

Stuff  with  60  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

30  lbs.  of  Camwood. 

Boil  two  hours,  then  sadden  with 
2 lbs.  of  Copperas,  and  spread. 


No.  38. 

140  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— MIDDLE  BROWN. 

Stuff  with  60  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

30  lbs.  of  Camwood. 

1 lb.  of  Logwood. 

Sadden  with  1 lb.  of  Copperas. 


WOOL-DYEING. 


43 


No.  39. 

100  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— DARKER  BROWN. 

Stuff  with  45  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

20  lbs.  of  Camwood. 

1J  lb.  of  Logwood. 

Sadden  with  1J  lb.  of  Copperas. 

These  are  good  Browns,  and  will  stand  Milling, 
but  the  Browns  dyed  first  in  the  Woad  vat  are 
more  permanent. 


No.  40. 

90  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— TRUE  BROWN. 

First  blue  a light  shade  in  the  Woad  vat,  then 
stuff  with 
60  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

10  lbs.  of  Madder. 

2 or  3 lbs.  of  Camwood. 

4 ozs.  of  Logwood. 

Sadden  with  1 lb.  of  Copperas. 

4 ozs.  of  Blue  Vitriol. 

Either  lighter  or  darker  shades  of  Browns  may 
be  dyed  after  this  mode;  by  dyeing  in  vat  accord- 
ing to  shade,  darker  Blue  for  darker  Browns,  and 
lighter  Blues  for  lighter  Browns,  or  by  adding 
more  or  less  Logwood  in  the  Stuffing,  and  more 
or  less  Copperas  in  the  saddening. 


44 


WOOL-DYEING. 


No.  41. 

160  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— LIGHT  GREEN. 

Dye  off  with  40  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

2 quarts  of  Chemic. 

4 lbs.  of  Argol. 

8 lbs.  of  Alum. 

Boil  one  hour. 

This  is  a good  bright  Green.  Darker  shades 
of  Green  may  be  dyed  by  adding  more  Chemic. 


No.  42. 

TO  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— MOSS  GREEN. 

This  color  may  be  dyed  by  means  of  the  Chrom- 
ing process,  and  filling  up  with  Fustic  and  Log- 
wood; but  as  by  this  mode  it  is  not  fast,  the  pro- 
per mode  is  to  blue  it  in  the  vat  first  to  shade, 
and  then  stuff  with 
50  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

5 lbs.  of  Madder. 

8 ozs.  of  Logwood. 

2 lbs.  of  Camwood. 

Sadden  with  4 ozs.  of  Copperas. 

2 ozs.  of  Blue  Vitriol. 

It  is  difficult  to  distinguish  between  the  true 
Green  and  the  other,  as  such  a near  resemblance 
can  be  produced  by  the  former  mode.  Nearly  all 


WOOL-DYEING. 


45 


the  shades  of  Green,  from  this  up  to  the  Invisible, 
and  all  the  various  shades  of  bottle  Green  may  be 
dyed  either  with  the  yellow  or  blue  hue  upon  them, 
and  will  appear  equally  as  good,  and  can  only  be 
distinguished  by  a test  of  strong  sulphuric  acid. 


No.  43. 

100  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— A GOOD  BOTTLE 
GREEN,  CHROMED. 

Boil  one  hour  with  1 lb.  of  Chrome. 

2 lbs.  of  Alum. 

Finish  in  a vessel  of  clean  water  with  30  lbs.  of 
Fustic. 

15  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Boil  an  hour  in  the  finishing. 


No.  44. 

100  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— INVISIBLE  GREEN, 

CHROMED. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  43,  and  finish  the  same, 
only  add  more  Logwood  and  less  Fustic.  Say, 
20  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

30  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

All  the  various  shades  of  rifles  may  be  dyed 
after  this  manner.  I will  next  give  a receipt  for 
the  true  Green. 


46 


WOOL-DYEING. 


No.  45. 

24  stones  OF  WOOL.— BOTTLE  GREEN, 
TRUE  COLOR. 

After  dyeing  a dark  Indigo  Blue  in  the  vat,  boil 
2 hours  with  80  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

40  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

8 ozs.  of  Alum. 

/ 

The  Invisible  is  dyed  after  the  same  manner, 
but  still  darker;  the  real  fast  Green  is  dyed  en- 
tirely without  Logwood. 


No.  46. 

12  stones  OF  WOOL.— VIOLET  OR 
MULBERRY. 

After  being  blued  to  a dark  blue  in  the  vat, 

Boil  one  hour  with  100  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

10  lbs.  of  Alum. 

5 lbs.  of  Argol. 

Then  fish  up  and  add  4 quarts  of  Nitrate  of 
Tin;  if  not  dark  enough,  add  more  Logwood,  and 
boil  half  an  hour  more.  The  Plum  color,  Mul- 
berry, and  Adelaide  have  been  dyed  upon  this 
mode  for  the  true  colors ; but  the  better  mode  is 
that  of  Chroming  first,  the  same  as  for  Black  and 
other  colors,  and  then  redden  and  darken  with 


WOOL-DYEING. 


47 


Cudbear  and  Logwood,  as  any  shade  of  darkness 
may  be  got  by  adding  more  Logwood,  and  then 
putting  it  through  the  vat.  These  would  be  faster 
colors,  and  have  more  solidity  about  them. 


No.  47. 

180  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— FINE  CLARET. 

Boil  two  hours  with  70  lbs.  of  Camwood  or  Sanders. 
1 lb.  of  Logwood. 

Sadden  with  2J  lbs.  of  Copperas. 


No.  48. 

140  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— DARKER  CLARET. 

Boil  two  hours  with  70  lbs.  of  Camwood. 

Then  take  up  and  let  it  drain  an  hour  or  two,  and 
Sadden  with  3 lbs.  of  Copperas. 

8 lbs.  of  Logwood. 


No.  49. 

180  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— RUSSIAN  BROWN. 

Stuff  with  20  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

40  lbs.  of  red  Sanders. 

Sadden  with  1 lb.  of  Copperas. 

1 lb.  of  Alum. 


48 


WOOL-DYEING. 


No.  50. 

240  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— DARK  BROWN. 

Stuff  with  130  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

10  lbs.  of  Crop  Madder. 

50  lbs.  of  Camwood. 

4 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Boil  two  hours,  then  sadden  with  10  lbs.  of  Cop- 
peras. 

Smother  all  night. 


No.  51,  A. 

20  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— LAC  SCARLET. 

Dye  with  2 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

1 lb.  of  Young  Fustic. 

4 lbs.  of  Lac. 

2 quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  one  hour. 


No.  51,  B. 

20  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— FULL  PINK. 

Dye  with  2 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

1 lb.  of  Alum. 

2 lbs.  of  Cochineal  paste. 

2 pints  of  Spirits. 

Boil  one  hour. 


WOOL-DYEING. 


49 


No.  52. 

20  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— WINE  COLOR. 

Dye  off  with  6 lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

If  a Blue  shade  is  wanted,  add  a little  Ammonia, 
and  if  a Redder  shade,  a little  Spirits  of  Salts. 


No.  53. 

20  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— ROYAL  BLUE. 

Dye  with  3 lbs.  of  Prussiate. 

3 quarts  of  Blue  Spirits. 

The  wool  must  be  entered  cold,  and  the  liquor 
heated  up  to  a boil  as  soon  as  possible;  and  when 
boiled  half  an  hour,  take  it  out  and  add  two  pints 
of  Finishing  Spirits.  If  a darker  shade  is  re- 
quired, add  Logwood  according  to  shade  with  the 
Finishing  Spirits;  or  it  is  preferable  to  add  the 
Logwood  at  the  beginning  with  the  Prussiate  for 
Wools. 

Royal  Blues  that  have  to  stand  Milling  and 
Steaming  should  always  have  as  much  Ammonia 
as  Blue  Spirits  at  the  beginning,  as  it  makes  them 
much  firmer  and  cleaner. 


5 


50 


WOOL-DYEING. 


No.  54. 

20  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— GRAIN  CRIMSON. 

Dye  with  2 lbs.  of  Cochineal  paste. 

1 lb.  of  dry  Cochineal. 

2 pints  of  Spirits. 

2 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

Boil  one  hour. 


No.  55. 

20  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— GRAIN  SCARLET. 

Dye  with  2 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

1J-  lb.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

3  pints  of  Spirits. 

2 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

Boil  one  hour. 


No.  56. 

20  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— FULL  YELLOW. 

Dye  with  1 lb.  of  Tartar. 

1 lb.  of  Alum. 

4  lbs.  of  Bark. 

2 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

2 pints  of  Spirits. 

Boil  twenty  minutes. 


WOOL-DYEING. 


51 


No.  57. 

20  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— ORANGE. 

Dye  with  8 ozs.  of  Cochineal. 

7 lbs.  of  Young  Fusti'c. 

1 lb.  of  Tartar. 

2 pints  of  Spirits. 


No.  58. 

20  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— CANARY  COLOR. 

Dye  with  1J  lb.  of  Bark. 

1 lb.  of  Tartar. 

1 lb.  of  Alum. 

1 quart  of  Spirit. 

Boil  twenty  minutes. 


No.  59. 

20  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— SKY  BLUE. 

Dye  with  J a gill  of  Liquid  Extract. 

1 lb.  of  Argol. 

2 lbs.  of  Alum. 

Boil  twenty  minutes. 


m, 

A. 


52 


WOOL-DYEING. 


No.  60. 

20  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— SAXONY  BLUE. 

Dye  with  1 pint  of  Liquid  Extract. 

1 lb.  of  Argol. 

2 lbs.  of  Alum. 

Boil  twenty  minutes. 


COTTON-DYEING. 


No.  1. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— BUFF. 

After  being  boiled  and  properly  wet,  run  through 
a clear  Lime  Liquor,  then  through  a weak  Cop- 
peras Liquor,  both  cold  liquor;  repeat  in  each 
liquor  until  the  shade  be  full  enough. 

Another  mode  of  dying  Buff  is  : — 


No.  2. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— BUFF. 

Run  the  Cotton  through  Nitrate  of  Iron,  at 
about  4°  Twaddell,  and  then  through  a weak  Am- 
monia Liquor  in  another  tub;  repeat  in  each  until 
the  shade  be  full  enough. 

Both  these  are  firm  Buff  colors. 

5* 


54 


COTTON-DYEING. 


No.  3. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— BUFF,  OR  NANKIN. 

Shave  4 lbs.  of  Spanish  Annotta  into  30  gal- 
lons of  water,  to  which  add  2 lbs.  of  Pearlash ; 
boil  it  well  up,  let  it  settle,  and  drain  off  the  clear 
Liquor ; run  the  Cotton  in  this  Liquor  until  you 
get  the  shade  required. 

All  the  various  shades  of  light  Buffs,  Nankin 
colors,  and  Straw  colors  as  well,  may  be  dyed 
from  Annotta  by  adding  little  enough  of  it  for 
the  shade.  The  fine  Straw  colors  which  have  a 
yellow  tinge  have  bleached  bottoms,  that  is,  they 
are  first  bleached,  and  then  dyed  in  the  following 
manner: — 


No.  4. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— STRAW  COLOR. 

After  being  bleached,  boil  or  scald,  as  may  be 
convenient,  1C  lbs.  of  Fustic  in  10  gallons  of 
water,  with  a few  lbs.  of  Alum,  and  add  clear 
Liquor  according  to  shade,  in  a tub  of  cold  water. 
If  fuller  shades  are  wanted,  add  a little  Alum 
Liquor. 

The  most  lively  colors  of  this  class  are  dyed 
after  this  manner  for  two-colored  Damasks,  and 
other  goods  that  are  made  up  with  Silk  weft. 


COTTON-DYEING. 


55 


No.  5. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— FLESH  COLOR. 

In  a tub  of  Cold  Water,  add  2 gallons  of  spent 
Annotta,  and  1 gallon  of  Turmeric  Liquor;  the 
Turmeric  must  be  boiled  up  with  a little  Alum, 
about  4 ozs.  to  the  gallon  of  water. 

A great  variety  of  shades  of  this  color  may  be 
dyed  by  adding  more  of  the  one  and  less  of  the 
other  of  the  two  ingredients,  Annotta  and  Tur- 
meric. 


No.  6. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— SAFFLOWER  PINK. 

Squeeze  the  Liquor  from  4 lbs.  of  Safflower 
into  a tub;  give  10  turns  in  cold  water.  If  the 
shade  be  too  blue,  add  about  1 tot  of  Oil  of  Vi- 
triol, and  give  it  a few  turns  more. 

Nearly  the  same  shade  may  be  dyed  upon 
bleached  cotton  in  the  following  manner  : — 

First  steep  it  in  4 lbs.  of  Sumach  in  a tub,  after 
which  it  must  be  spirited  in  a tub  of  cold  water, 
with  either  Muriate  or  Nitromuriate  of  Tin. 
The  Liquor  must  stand  at  2°  Twaddell.  Then 
add  to  another  tub  of  cold  water  5 lbs.  of  spent 
Peachwood.  To  spend  the  Peachwood,  let  it  boil 
a few  minutes,  or  be  well  scalded,  and  so  with  all 
the  other  woods. 


56 


COTTON-DYEING. 


No.  7. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— LIGHT  PINK. 

This  shade  is  dyed  in  the  same  manner  as  No. 
6,  with  the  exception  of  having  less  Sumach  and 
Peachwood ; of  Sumach,  2 lbs.  instead  of  4 lbs., 
and  of  Peachwood,  2J  lbs.  instead  of  5 lbs. 


No.  8. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— SCARLET. 

It  must  be  first  steeped  in  4 lbs.  of  Sumach,  then 
spirited  with  Muriate  of  Tin,  at  2°  Twaddell,  and 
then  dyed  with  2 lbs.  of  Peachwood  and  8 lbs.  of 
Bark,  previously  spent;  let  the  Liquor  be  luke- 
warm. Give  10  turns,  and  then  wash  off  for  the 
stove. 

If  a Yellower  shade  of  Scarlet  is  required,  add 
more  bark : if  a Bluer  shade,  less  Bark ; if  a 
lighter  shade  of  Scarlet,  add  less  of  both  Peach- 
wood and  Bark  ; and  if  a darker  shade  of  Scarlet 
is  required,  add  more  of  both  Peachwood  and 
Bark. 


COTTON-DYEING. 


57 


No.  9. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— LIGHT  CINNAMON 

BROWN. 

Boil  up  2 lbs.  of  Yellow  Catechu  with  2 gallons 
of  Water,  add  to  it  4 ozs.  of  Blue  Vitriol,  and  let 
it  boil  twenty  minutes.  In  another  vessel  dissolve 
8 ozs.  of  Chrome,  and  keep  it  at  the  boiling  heat ; 
run  the  Cotton  in  the  Catechu  first,  give  8 turns, 
wring  out,  enter  the  Chrome  tub,  give  8 turns 
more,  wring  out,  and  wash  off  for  the  stove. 


No.  10. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— DARKER  SHADE 
OF  LIGHT  BROWN.  . 

This  shade  is  dyed  the  same  as  No.  9,  with  the 
exception  of  having  2 lbs.  of  Black  Catechu  in- 
stead of  2 lbs.  of  Yellow. 

When  the  shade  is  not  Yellow  enough,  add  to 
the  Catechu  a little  Fustic,  or  Turmeric,  which  is 
preferable.  Any  shade  of  Cinnamon  Brown  may 
be  dyed  by  varying  the  Catechu  and  Turmeric, 
giving  more  of  the  one  and  less  of  the  other,  ac- 
cording to  the  shade  required. 


58 


COTTON-DYEING. 


No.  11. 

20  lbs.  0:F  COTTON.— DARK  SHADES  OF 

BROWN. 

These  shades  must  he  first  steeped  in  Sumach, 
then  saddened  with  a little  Copperas  Liquor  in 
another  tub,  and  a little  Urine  amongst  it,  and 
then  dyed  in  all  respects  the  same  as  the  other 
two  Browns. 


No.  12. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— CHROME  YELLOW. 

Dissolve  8 ozs.  of  White  Sugar  of  Lead  in  one 
tub,  and  8 ozs.  of  Chrome  in  another ; enter  the 
tub  with  the  Sugar  of  Lead  first,  cold,  give  five 
turns,  and  then  enter  the  Chrome,  and  give  five 
turns,  and  wring  out ; enter  the  other  tub  again, 
give  five  turns  more,  and  then  wash  off  for  the 
stove. 


No.  13. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— DARKER  SHADE 
OF  CHROMED  YELLOW. 

Dissolve  8 ozs.  of  Brown  Sugar  of  Lead  and  8 
ozs.  of  Chrome,  each  in  a separate  tub  ; enter  the 
Sugar  of  Lead  first,  give  6 ends,  then  enter  the 
Chrome,  give  G turns  in  it;  repeat  three  times  in 


COTTON-DYEING. 


59 


the  Sugar  of  Lead  tub,  and  twice  in  the  Chrome  ; 
wash  off  out  of  the  Sugar  of  Lead  tub  for  the 
stove. 



No.  14. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— FULL  CHROME 

ORANGE. 

First  make  up  a tub  of  Cold  Water,  to  which 
add  4 pailfuls  of  Lime  Lee,  or  clear  Lime  Water, 
enter  the  Cotton  and  turn  four  rounds;  dissolve 
4 lbs.  of  Brown  Sugar  of  Lead  in  6 quarts  of 
water ; in  another  tub  of  cold  water  add  2 quarts 
of  this  solution,  enter  the  cotton,  give  three  turns, 
squeeze  out.  Enter  into  another  tub  of  clear  lime 
water,  give  three  turns  in  this,  and  in  each  of  the 
two  last  tubs,  repeat  three  times,  adding  to  the 
first  tub  1 quart  of  the  solution,  and  to  the  other 
fresh  Lime  Liquor  each  time  before  you  enter. 
Then  dissolve  2 lbs.  of  Chrome  in  4 quarts  of 
water,  make  up  a tub  at  about  20°,  and  add  2 
quarts  of  the  Chrome  Liquor;  enter  the  Cotton 
into  this,  give  three  turns,  and  wring  it  out ; then 
enter  the  Sugar  of  Lead  tub,  and  add  1 quart 
more  of  the  solution  that  is  left,  repeat  three 
times,  and  add  1 quart  of  the  solution  each  time, 
and  finish  out  of  the  Chrome. 

In  this  state  it  will  appear  very  uneven,  as  the 


60 


COTTON-DYEING. 


atmosphere  affects  it  very  much,  but  will  become 
even  in  the  raising  of  it,  wThich  is  done  as  fol- 
lows: Into  a pan  or  vessel  of  any  sort  with  an 
open  top,  add  7 pailfuls  of  clear  Lime  Water, 
bring  it  just  up  to  the  spring  and  scum  it  well,  do 
not  let  it  boil,  after  scumming  cool  down  a little, 
enter  the  cotton  and  give  5 turns.  Be  careful 
not  to  add  too  much  Lime  Water,  or  it  will  de- 
stroy the  beauty  of  the  color.  This  color,  like 
some  others,  will  feel  rather  rough,  and  therefore 
must  be  run  through  a little  softening,  which  is 
made  as  follows : dissolve  8 ozs.  of  Pearlash  or 
Soda  in  1 gallon  of  warm  Water,  to  which  add  1 
pint  of  Fish  Oil,  mix  it  well  together,  and  give  it 
a little  of  it  in  a tub  of  warm  water. 


No.  15. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— FAST  DRAB. 

Boil  up  6 lbs.  of  Mahogany  Sawdust. 

Draw  the  clear  Liquor  into  a tub,  and  give  5 
turns. 

Raise  in  the  same  Liquor  with  1 gill  of  Nitrate 
of  Iron. 

The  Drabs  dyed  this  way  are  very  fast,  and  a 
great  variety  of  Shades  may  be  dyed  by  adding 
more  or  less  of  the  wood  according  to  Shade. 


COTTON-DYEING. 


61 


No.  16. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— FAST  BLUE. 

To  a tub  of  Cold  Water  and  1 lb.  of  Copperas 
dissolved. 

f of  a Noggin  of  Muriatic  Acid. 

Give  5 turns  and  wring  out. 

To  another  Tub  of  Cold  Water  add  8 ozs.  of 
dissolved  Prussiate. 

Give  5 turns  and  take  up. 

Add  about  1 Noggin  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

Give  5 turns  more  and  wash  off  for  the  Stove. 


No.  IT. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— LAVENDER. 

To  a tub  of  Cold  Water  add  2 lbs.  of  Logwood 
previously  scalded,  and  use  only  the  clear  Liquor. 
Add  to  it  1 lb.  of  Alum. 

Enter  and  give  6 or  8 turns. 

Lift  up  and  add  8 ozs.  of  Sweet  Extract. 

2 lbs.  more  Alum. 

Give  6 turns,  and  if  a Redder  Shade  is  required, 
add  more  Logwood  Liquor,  and  if  Bluer,  more 
Extract. 


6 


62 


COTTON-DYEING. 


No.  18. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— LILAC. 

To  a tub  of  Cold  Water  add  8 lbs.  of  Log- 
wood. 

1J  lb.  of  Alum,  or  a little  Red  Liquor,  which  is 
preferable  in  this  class  of  colors  ; give  6 or  8 turns. 
Lighter  or  darker  Shades  may  be  dyed  by  adding 
more  or  less  Logwood. 


No.  19. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— SILVER  DRAB. 

In  a tub  of  Cold  Water,  add  about  4 ozs.  of  Log- 
wood, and  1 quart  of  clear  Lime  Water  ; give  about 
8 turns,  and  wash  off  for  the  stove. 


No.  20. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— GOOD  LIGHT 

DRIB. 

In  a tub  of  Cold  Water  add  \ an  oz.  of  Log- 
wood, and  1 lb.  of  Fustic;  give  10  turns,  then 
lift  up,  and  add  8 ozs.  of  Blue  Vitriol,  and  give 
8 turns  more,  then  wash  off  for  the  stove. 


COTTON-DYEING. 


63 


No.  21. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— FULLER  SHADE 

OF  No.  20. 

In  all  respects  dye  the  same,  but  add  double 
the  quantity  of  both  Fustic  and  Logwood. 


No.  22. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— LIGHT  OLIVE. 

' In  a tub  of  Cold  Water,  add  5 lbs.  of  Fustic, 
previously  scalded,  and  1J  lb.  of  Logwood;  give 
10  turns,  then  lift  up,  and  raise  by  adding  8 ozs. 
of  Blue  Vitriol;  give  10  turns  more,  and  wash 
off  for  the  stove. 


No.  23. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— DARKER  OLIVE. 

In  a tub  of  Cold  Water,  add  4 lbs.  of  Sumach ; 
% 

steep  in  this  for  an  hour.  Sadden  in  another  tub 
of  Cold  Water,  with  2 lbs.  of  dissolved  Copperas, 
give  8 turns,  wring  out,  enter  another  tub  of 
warm  w^ater  with  4 a pailful  of  Urine.  Then  dye 
in  another  tub  with  6 lbs.  of  Fustic,  and  raise  in 
the  same  liquor  with  1 lb.  of  Blue  Vitriol. 


64 


COTTON-DYEING. 


No.  24. 

24  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— DARK  OLIVE. 

Dark  shades  of  Olive  are  dyed  same  as  No. 
83,  but  adding  with  the  Fustic  a little  Logwood, 
according  to  the  shade  of  darkness,  and  when  not 
Yellow  enough,  add  a little  more  Fustic  Liquor, 
or  Turmeric  Liquor,  which  is  preferable  for  dark 
colors. 


No.  25. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— FULL  YELLOW 

DRAB. 

In  a tub  of  Warm  Water,  add  8 ozs.  of  Tur- 
meric, 4 ozs.  of  Logwood,  and  8 lbs.  of  Fustic; 
raise  in  the  same  Liquor  with  2|  lbs.  of  Alum. 
Give  10  turns  before  and  10  turns  after  sadden- 
ing, and  wash  off  for  the  stove. 


No.  26. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— LIGHT  BUFF. 

In  a tub  of  Cold  Water,  add  a little  Nitrate  of 
Iron ; give  10  turns,  lift  up,  and  raise  with  a 
little  lime  water  and  a little  potash  in  the  same 
liquor ; give  a few  turns  more,  and  wash  off. 


COTTON-DYEING. 


G5 


No.  27. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— LIGHT  BLUE. 

Run  through  the  Copperas  Vat  one  end. 

How  to  dye  the  same  shade  with  Extract: — 

In  a tub  of  Cold  Water,  add  10  ozs.  of  Sweet 
Extract,  and  2 lbs.  of  Alum.  Various  shades  of 
Light  Blue  may  be  dyed  with  Extract,  by  adding 
more  or  less,  according  to  shade  required.  Give 
10  turns,  and  then  dry  off. 


No.  28. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— LIGHT  EXTRACT 

GREEN. 

In  a tub  of  Water  at  about  100°,  add  8 ozs.  of 
Turmeric,  previously  scalded ; give  10  turns,  lift 
up,  and  add  4 lbs.  of  Alum  and  1 lb.  of  Extract, 
enter  again,  and  give  10  turns  more,  and  then 
wash  off  for  the  stove. 

Various  shades  of  Green  may  be  dyed  after 
this  manner  by  adding  Extract  according  to 
shade.  The  Extract  must  be  well  mixed  before 
it  is  used. 

Greens  of  this  dye  are  not  so  permanent  as 
those  with  a Copperas  Vat  Blue  Bottom. 

6* 


66 


COTTON-DYEING. 


No.  29. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— MIDDLE  SHADE 
OF  GREEN. 

First  run  the  Cotton  through  the  Copperas 
Vat,  and  get  a moderate  shade  of  Blue,  after 
which  wash  it  well.  In  another  tub  add  15  lbs. 
of  scalded  Fustic;  enter  the  Cotton,  and  give  10 
turns,  lift  up,  add  4 lbs.  of  Alum,  and  give  10 
turns  more. 

If  the  shade  is  required  bluer,  add  more  Ex- 
tract in  the  same  Liquor. 

No.  30. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— DARK  SHADE  OF 

GREEN. 

Dark  shades  of  Green  must  have  a darker 
Blue  bottom,  and  are  dyed  in  all  respects  the 
same  as  No.  29. 


No.  31. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— CHROMED  AND 
FAST  GREENS. 

Blue  according  to  the  shade  required  in  the 
Copperas  Yat,  for  light  shade  of  Green.  In  a 
tub  of  Cold  Water  add  1 lb.  of  Sugar  of  Lead, 


COTTON-DYEING. 


67 


enter  the  Cotton,  and  give  5 ends  ; in  another 
tub  of  Hot  Water  add  1 lb.  of  melted  Chrome, 
give  five  turns,  wring  out,  repeat  twice,  and  finish 
off'  in  the  Sugar  of  Lead,  and  then  wash  olf  for 
the  stove. 

Dark  Chromed  Greens  are  dyed  darker  in  the 
Copperas  Yat  first,  and  have  about  one-half  more 
Chrome,  and  are  dyed  in  all  respects  the  same  as 
light  Greens. 


No.  32. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— LIGHT  CATECHU 

BROWN. 

Spend  3 lbs.  of  Catechu  with  3 ozs.  of  Blue 
Vitriol ; put  this  into  a tub  of  Warm  Water,  enter 
the  cotton,  give  8 turns,  wring  out,  and  enter  an- 
other tub  of  Hot  Water  with  8 ozs.  of  Chrome,  at 
the  boiling  point ; give  6 ends,  and  then  wash  off 
for  the  stove. 


No.  33. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— DARKER  CATECHU 

BROWN. 

In  a tub  of  Hot  Water,  add  4 lbs.  of  Catechu, 
give  6 turns  ; in  another  tub  of  Hot  Water,  add  8 
ozs.  of  Chrome,  enter,  give  five  turns,  wash  out, 
and  repeat  once  more  in  each  tub,  and  then  wash 
oft'  for  the  stove. 


68 


COTTON-DYEING. 


No.  34. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— DARK  CATECHU 

BROWN. 

Spend  8 lbs.  of  Catechu  with  8 ozs.  of  Blue 
Vitriol,  enter  the  cotton,  and  for  convenience  let 
it  stay  in  it  all  night,  after  giving  it  a few  turns. 
Then  in  another  tub  of  Hot  Water  add  1 lb.  of 
Chrome,  enter  and  give  a few  turns,  wash  out  of 
the  Chrome,  and  repeat  twice  or  three  times. 


No.  35. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— FULL  DARK  CATE- 
CHU BROWN. 

A darker  class  of  colors  may  be  dyed  by  using 
one-half  of  Yellow  Catechu  and  one-half  of  the 
Black  Catechu,  and  for  very  Red  shades  use  all 
Black  Catechu. 

If  very  dark  shades  are  required,  they  must 
be  first  Sumached  and  Saddened,  and  then  dyed  in 
the  same  way. 


No.  36. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— FULL  YELLOW 
SCARLET. 

Scald  4 lbs.  of  Sumach,  and  add  it  to  a tub  of 
Cold  Water,  and  steep  the  cotton  in  it  for  a few 


COTTON-DYEING. 


69 


hours.  Make  up  another  tub  of  Cold  Water,  and 
add  Nitromuriate  of  Tin  until  it  stands  at  2° 
Twaddell,  enter  the  cotton  into  this  and  give 
about  ten  turns.  In  another  tub,  add  4 lbs.  of 
Peachwood  and  1 lb.  of  Turmeric,  both  previously 
spent,  enter  the  cotton,  give  10  turns,  and  raise 
in  the  same  Liquor,  with  2 lbs.  of  Alum;  let  the 
Liquor  be  at  about  100°  Twaddell. 


No.  37. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— BARWOOD  RED. 

In  a tub  of  Cold  Water  add  5 lbs.  of  Sumach, 
give  a few  turns  and  steep  in  it  all  night.  In  an- 
other tub  of  Cold  Water  add  Spirits  until  it  stands 
at  3°  Twaddell,  give  eight  turns,  wash  in  Cold 
Water,  and  Warm  also.  Then  in  a Copper  or 
Block  Tin  Vessel  add  20  lbs.  of  Barwood,  boil  up 
15  minutes  before  the  cotton  is  put  in,  then  cool 
down  a little  and  enter  the  cotton,  bring  it  up  to 
a spring  boil  and  turn  it  on  until  it  comes  up  to 
the  shade,  say  about  an  hour. 

No.  38. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— IMITATION  OF 
TURKEY  RED. 

This  color  is  dved  the  same  as  Barwood  Red, 
except  when  it  has  boiled  about  an  hour,  take  out 


70 


COTTON-DYEING. 


of  the  vessel  and  add  1 gill  of  Oil  of  Vitriol,  and 
boil  it  a short  time  longer.  The  oil  will  give  it 
a much  bluer  appearance,  and  will  very  much  imi- 
tate the  Turkey  Red. 

Lighter  or  darker  shades  may  be  dyed  by  add- 
ing more  or  less  of  the  Barwood. 


No.  39. 

VARIOUS  SHADES  OF  SILVER  DRAB. 

A good  Silver  Drab  of  a very  light  color  may 
be  dyed  by  first  giving  a few  turns  in  a little  Gall 
Liquor,  and  then  lift  up  and  add  a little  Nitrate 
of  Iron,  and  give  a few  turns  more,  and  wash  off 
for  the  stove. 

A few  Valonias  will  produce  nearly  the  same 
effect,  but  not  quite  so  fine  a shade.  The  Valo- 
nias must  be  boiled  with  a little  water  to  get  the 
strength  out  of  them. 

A great  variety  of  Blue  Drabs  can  be  dyed  by 
first  Sumaching  the  cotton,  and  then  in  another  tub 
add  a little  Nitrate  of  Iron  or  Copperas  liquor, 
and  give  a few  turns.  By  adding  more  Iron  or 
Copperas  liquor  the  shades  may  be  dyed  up  to 
dark  Slate  color,  and  by  adding  a little  Ammonia, 
a class  of  Redder  shades  may  be  dyed,  and  Yel- 
lower by  adding  a little  Fustic. 


COTTON- DYEING. 


71 


No.  40. 

VARIOUS  SHADES  OF  FAWN  DRAES. 

A great  variety  of  Fawn  Drabs  may  be  dyed 
by  adding  to  a tub  of  Cold  Water  a little  Catechu, 
and  then  a little  more  according  to  shades  re- 
quired ; and  when  flatter  shades  are  wTanted,  add 
a little  Copperas  Liquor,  which  will  sadden  it. 
Almost  any  variety  of  shade  may  be  dyed  after 
this  manner. 

Then  another  class  of  heavier  shades  must  have 
a little  Sumach  with  the  Catechu,  and  be  saddened 
with  a little  Nitrate  of  Iron,  or  Copperas  Liquor. 


No.  41. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— GOOD  BLACK. 

In  a tub  of  Cold  Water  add  5 lbs.  of  Sumach, 
give  a few  turns  and  steep  it  all  night  in  the 
Sumach  ; then  in  another  tub  of  cold  water  add  a 
few  pails  of  Lime  Water  wring  out,  in  another 
tub  of  Cold  Water  add  2 lbs.  of  dissolved  Cop- 
peras, and  a pailful  of  the  old  Sumach  liquor,  enter 
and  give  6 turns,  then  wring  out,  enter  the  lime 
tub  again,  and  give  2 pails  more  Lime  liquor,  then 
scald  6 lbs.  of  Logwood  and  1 lb.  of  Fustic,  add 
this  to  another  tub  of  Water,  enter  the  cotton  and 
give  10  turns,  lift  up,  and  sadden  with  a little 
Copperas  in  the  same  liquor. 


72 


COTTON-DYEING. 


No.  42. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.  — A GOOD  BLACK 
TO  STAND  MILLING  AND  SCOURING. 

Steep  all  night  with  6 lbs.  of  Sumach,  pass 
through  Lime  liquor,  and  sadden  with  Copperas 
as  before;  repeat  in  each  of  the  last  two  tubs, 
adding  more  lime  and  Copperas  to  each,  pass 
through  Logwood  and  wash  off. 

Both  the  last  blacks  must  be  softened  with  a 
little  Oil  and  Soda  Ash. 


No.  43. 

FAST  BLACK. 

This  Black  is  first  dyed  in  the  Copperas  vat, 
and  must  have  a good  Blue  bottom,  and  be  dyed 
in  all  respects  same  as  No.  42. 


No.  44. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— FAST  PURPLE. 

This  color  must  have  a blue  bottom  in  the 
Copperas  vat,  and  afterwards  it  must  have  a few 
turns  in  a tub  of  Cold  Water  with  a little  Muriate 
of  Tin,  at  2°  Twaddell.  In  another  tub  of  Water 
add  4 or  5 lbs.  of  Logwood,  previously  spent, 
enter  the  cotton  and  give  8 turns.  This  is  the 


COTTON-DYEING. 


73 


best  purple  that  can  be  dyed,  possessing  a very 
bright  appearance. 

Lighter  or  darker  shades  may  be  dyed  by  add- 
ing more  or  less  Logwood  according  to  shade. 


No.  45. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— FAST  LAVENDER. 

Lavender  Shades  are  dyed  the  same  as  No.  44, 
but  are  dyed  a much  lighter  blue  in  the  vat,  and 
with  less  Logwood  in  the  filling  up. 

These  are  decidedly  the  best  shades  of  Laven- 
der that  can  be  dyed,  especially  for  warps  which 
have  to  be  made  up  with  white  weft ; they  will 
stand  any  reasonable  quantity  of  Acid,  and  are 
much  better  for  the  Piece-Dyer. 


No.  46. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— SKY  BLUE. 

The  various  shades  of  light  Blues  are  dyed  in 
the  Copperas  vat ; they  can  be  varied  almost  to 
any  shade  by  passing  them  oftener  through. 

These  shades  are  much  better  than  the  Chinese 
Blues,  which  will  not  stand  passing  through  warm- 
water  without  washing  off. 

7 


74 


COTTON-DYEING. 


No.  47. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— BARK  YELLOW. 

Boil  10  lbs.  of  Bark  in  a bag  in  a vessel  of 
Water  for  fifteen  minutes ; take  out  the  bag,  and 
add  to  the  liquor  1 quart  of  Muriate  of  Tin,  cool 
down,  enter  the  cotton,  and  give  it  6 turns  sharp- 
ly; if  not  full  enough,  take  it  out  and  add  1 gill 
more  spirit. 


No.  48. 

OTHER  YELLOWS. 

Perhaps  the  Turmeric  Yellow  is  the  cheapest 
of  any,  but  it  is  not  so  permanent  as  that  dyed 
with  Bark  or  Fustic,  and  nothing  like  the  Chrome 
Yellow;  though  almost  any  shade  of  Yellow  may 
be  dyed  upon  cotton,  by  first  boiling  in  a little 
Water  a very  small  quantity  of  Sulphuric  Acid, 
or  a little  Alum,  and  using  only  the  clear  liquor ; 
2 or  3 lbs.  will  dye  a fair  shade  of  Yellow  upon 
20  lbs.  of  Cotton. 


No.  49. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— PEACIIWOOD  RED. 

Scald  5 lbs.  of  Sumach,  and  steep  the  cotton  in 
it  all  night.  In  a tub  of  Cold  Water,  add  about 


COTTON-DYEING. 


75 


1 quart  of  Spirits,  give  10  turns  in  this,  and  wash ; 
then  scald  5 lbs.  of  Peachwood,  in  which  liquor 
work  the  cotton  until  you  get  the  shade  required. 

If  a lighter  shade  is  wanted,  add  less  Peach- 
wood. 


No.  50. 

CRIMSONS  AND  PINKS. 

Various  shades  of  Crimsons  and  Pinks  may  be 
dyed  in  the  following  manner  : — 

First  Spirit  at  about  6°  Twaddell,  and  then 
enter  the  Peachwood  in  quantity  according  to 
shade  required,  whether  Crimson  or  Pink. 

This  is  the  quickest  way  they  can  be  dyed,  ex- 
cept by  adding  both  the  Spirits  and  the  Wood 
together,  which  ^ill  answer  equally  as  well. 
After  dyeing  a good  Crimson,  a variety  of  Pinks 
may  be  dyed  in  the  same  Liquor,  by  giving  about 
G or  8 turns  in  it. 


No.  51. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— CLARETS. 

For  a full  Claret,  steep  the  Cotton  in  5 lbs.  of 
Sumach  all  night,  then  Spirit  in  another  tub  at 
about  2°  Twaddell ; then  wash,  scald  3 or  4 lbs. 
of  Logwood,  add  this  to  a tub  of  Warm  Water, 


76 


COTTON-DYEING. 


give  8 turns,  lift  up,  throw  out  the  old  Liquor, 
and  add  as  much  more  Logwood ; give  8 ends 
more,  and  raise  in  the  same  Liquor,  with  a little 
Alum. 

Lighter  shades  are  dyed  in  the  same  manner, 
but  must  have  less  Wood. 

When  Redder  shades  are  required,  add  a little 
Peachwood  and  Logwood. 


No.  52. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— RUBY. 

Sumach  as  for  Claret,  and  Spirit  the  same,  then 
boil  up  6 lbs.  of  Sapanwood  in  a few  gallons  of 
Water ; strain  off  the  Liquor,  and  put  it  into  a 
tub  of  Warm  Water,  give  10  turns  and  raise  with 
a little  Alum. 


No.  53. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— PLUM  COLOR. 

Prepare  with  Sumach  and  Spirits,  as  before, 
then  boil  up  5 lbs.  of  Logwood  and  2 lbs.  of 
Peachwood,  or  it  may  be  scalded  and  strained 
into  a tub,  to  render  the  liquor  clear;  give  10 
ends,  and  raise  with  a little  Alum  in  the  same 
liquor;  give  6 ends,  and  wash  off. 


COTTON-DYEING. 


77 


No.  54. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— MAROON. 

This  color  may  be  dyed  in  the  same  manner  as 
No.  52,  using  Peachwood  instead  of  Sapanwood. 

The  best  mode  of  dyeing  it  is  by  first  Sumaching 
with  5 lbs.  of  Sumach,  and  then  saddening  with 
2 lbs.  of  Copperas,  or  a little  Nitrate  of  Iron, 
which  is  preferable ; then  wash  and  enter  a tub 
with  6 lbs.  of  Peachwood,  give  10  turns,  lift  up, 
and  add  1 pint  of  Spirits  to  the  same  Liquor  to 
raise  with ; or  raise  in  another  tub  with  Spirits  ; 
by  adding  a little  more  Spirits,  the  brightest  and 
fullest  Crimson  may  be  dyed,  and  will  stand 
wearing  much  better  than  some  other  modes  of 
dyeing  the  same  color. 


No.  55. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— BLUE  PURPLE. 

In  a tub  of  Cold  Water  add  5 lbs.  of  Sumach, 

/ 

steep  in  this  all  night,  if  convenient ; then  in 
another  tub  spirit  with  1 pint  of  Spirits,  and 
wash  out  of  the  spirit  tub;  then  enter  another 
tub  with  4 or  5 lbs.  of  Logwood,  give  8 turns, 
lift  up,  add  8 ozs.  of  Tin  Crystals,  give  8 turns 
more  and  wash  off. 

7* 


78 


COTTON-DYEING. 


No.  56. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— FULL  PURPLE. 

First  Sumach,  then  sadden  with  Copperas,  wash 
out  of  the  Copperas,  then  scald  5 lbs.  of  Logwood 
in  another  tub,  and  give  10  turns ; it  will  now  be 
a good  black,  but  must  be  raised  with  a pint  of 
Spirits  in  the  same  tub. 

Purple  w’arps  dyed  on  this  principle  are  very 
good  and  permanent. 


No.  57. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— SAXON  BLUE. 

This  color  may  be  dyed  in  the  Copperas  vat, 
but  not  so  bright  as  with  Prussiate  of  Potash. 
To  dye  with  Prussiate  it  must  be  first  ironed  or 
turned  in  a tub  of  Cold  Water  with  about  1 quart 
of  Nitrate  of  Iron  until  it  becomes  a light  buff ; 
it  must  then  pass  through  weak  Ammonia  in  an- 
other tub,  then  wash  it ; dissolve  about  1 lb.  of 
Prussiate  and  add  it  to  another  tub  of  Cold  Water, 
give  about  ten  turns,  then  lift  up,  and  add  1 nog- 
gin of  Oil  of  Vitriol,  enter  again,  and  give  10 
turns,  and  wash  off  for  the  Stove. 

For  darker  shades  add  more  Prussiate. 


COTTON-DYEING. 


79 


No.  58. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— FLAT  ROYAL  BLUE. 

This  color  is  first  dyed  in  the  Copperas  vat, 
and  then  dyed  in  the  same  way  as  No.  57,  so 
that  by  having  a vat  blue  bottom  it  takes  less 
Prussiate. 


No.  59. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.  — BRIGHT  ROYAL 

BLUE. 

In  the  first  tub  make  up  a decoction  of  Nitrate 
of  Iron,  at  3^  Twaddell,  about  3 pints,  give  6 
turns  ; in  another  tub  of  Water  add  3 lbs.  of  dis- 
solved Prussiate,  give  G turns,  lift  up,  and  add  1 
gill  of  Oil  of  Vitriol,  give  6 turns  more.  To  the 
tub  with  the  Iron  in,  add  1 lb.  of  Tin  Crystals, 
pass  through  the  Iron  4 times,  and  through  the 
Prussiate  3 times. 


No.  60. 

VICTORIA  BLUE. 

This  color  is  dyed  in  most  respects  same  as 
No.  59,  but  with  this  difference,  the  Crystals  of 
Tin  are  added  to  the  Iron  at  the  beginning,  and 
the  Oil  of  Vitriol  is  not  added  until  the  last  time 


80 


COTTON-DYEING. 


in  the  Prussiate.  There  is  little  difference  in 
these  two  blues ; the  latter  may  be  somewhat 
more  bloomy. 


No.  61. 

20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— NAPOLEON  BLUE. 

This  is  the  most  bloomy  shade  that  has  yet 
been  produced  upon  Cotton  Fabrics  or  Cotton 
Yarns.  In  the  first  place  add  1 quart  of  Mu- 
riate of  Tin  to  a tub  of  cold  water,  enter  the 
cotton  and  give  8 turns;  in  another  tub  add  the 
clear  liquor  from  4 lbs.  of  Logwood,  then  add  to 
another  tub  of  cold  water  2 quarts  of  Nitrate  of 
Iron,  and  2 lbs.  of  Crystals  of  Tin,  enter  the  cot- 
ton and  give  * 6 turns,  then  in  another  tub  add 
3 lbs.  of  melted  Prussiate,  enter  this  and  give  6 
turns,  repeat  2 or  3 times ; then  to  the  Prus- 
siate add  1 gill  of  Oil  of  Vitriol,  pass  through,  and 
wash  off  for  the  Stove. 


No.  62. 

ON  BLEACHING  COTTON. 

The  Warps  or  Yarns  are  first  steeped  in  Pearl- 
ash  Liquor,  at  boiling  point,  to  soften  the  grease 
and  dirt.  Some  Bleachers  wash  out  in  warm 
Pearlash  Liquor,  after  which  they  are  passed 
through  a solution  of  Chloride  of  Lime ; then 


COTTON-DYEING. 


81 


they  are  washed  in  more  Pearlash  water.  Both 
these  processes  are  repeated  until  the  goods  be- 
come sufficiently  White  ; they  are  then  taken 
and  boiled  in  a weak  solution  of  Pearlash  and 
White  Soap,  which  removes  all  smell  of  the  Chlo- 
rine, and  gives  to  the  Cotton  a beautiful  white- 
ness. 

A much  readier  way  of  Bleaching  is  that  of 
steeping  the  cotton  as  in  the  former  mode,  and 
then  passing  it  through  Chloride  of  Lime  and  Oil 
of  Vitriol  until  it  assumes  a good  white  appear- 
ance. Care  must  be  taken  not  to  use  too  much 
Oil  of  Vitriol,  as  that  would  have  a tendency  to 
destroy  the  strength  of  the  fabric. 


No.  68. 

HOW  TO  SPEND  CATECHU. 

Let  it  be  well  boiled  with  1 or  2 ozs.  of  Blue 
Vitriol  to  every  pound  of  Catechu,  and  about  10 
times  its  weight  of  water. 

No.  64. 

HOW  TO  MAKE  THE  SPIRITS  FOR 
COTTON-DYEING  PURPOSES. 

Add  1 lb.  of  Aqua  Fortis  to  5 lbs.  of  Spirits  of 
Salts,  and  kill  them  with  about  2|  ozs.  of  Tin  to 
the  pound.  The  Tin  may  be  all  added  at  first 
either  in  a bottle  or  in  a jar. 


82 


COTTON-DYEING. 


No.  65. 

ON  STEEPING. 

Warps  and  Hanks  should  be  well  wet  before  they 
are  dyed,  or  they  will  not  dye  even;  they  should 
be  steeped  in  boiling  water  for  a few  hours  at 
least,  or  boiled,  if  convenient,  so  as  to  penetrate 
through  every  thread. 


No.  66. 

HOW  TO  SPEND  ANNOTTA. 

It  must  be  well  boiled  with  about  1 gallon  of 
water  to  the  pound,  and  } lb.  of  Pearlashes. 


No..  67. 

HOW  TO  SPEND  TURMERIC  FOR 
COTTON-DYEING. 

* 

It  must  be  boiled  up  with  water,  and  much  of 
the  strength  will  bleed  out  of  it  without  acid  or 
alkali ; but  about  8 ozs.  of  Alum  to  1 lb.  of  Tur- 
meric is  generally  used.  Pearlash  will  bleed  more 
strength  out  of  it,  but  it  will  not  dye  so  bright 
and  clear  a Yellow,  but  it  will  be  more  of  the 
Olive  cast. 


COTTON-DYEING. 


83 


No.  68. 

✓ 

HOW  TO  SPEND  SAFFLOWER. 

In  the  first  place  put  the  quantity  required  into 
a bag,  and  steep  it  in  water  for  a few  hours  to 
soften  it,  then  it  must  be  trodden  well  and  rinsed 
again  in  the  Water,  and  so  on  repeatedly  until  all 
the  Yellow  coloring  matter  is  extracted,  as  it  is  of 
no  use  whatever  to  dyers;  then  the  flowers  will 
have  a bright  crimson  appearance,  and  must  be 
put  to  steep  in  cold  water  sufficient  to  cover  them, 
and  to  every  pound  of  Flower  there  must  be  added 
8 ozs.  of  Pearlash,  previously  dissolved,  and  after- 
wards well  mixed  amongst  the  flowers  so  as  to 
extract  all  the  Red  coloring  matter  from  them;  it 
will  take  a few  hours  to  do  this ; it  must  then  be 
squeezed  either  between  the  hands  or  in  a press, 
and  the  clear  liquor  used  for  dyeing  purposes. 
Alone  it  will  dye  a very  Blue  shade  of  Pink,  but 
requires  a little  Tartaric  or  Sulphuric  Acid  to 
redden  it,  when  a Red  shade  is  required. 

It  should  be  well  rubbed  before  it  is  put  into  the 
bags  to  steep  in  the  water. 


SILK-DYEING. 


No.  1. 

10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— LAVENDER. 

In  a tub  of  warm  water,  at  20°,  add  1 lb.  of 
Extract  of  Indigo,  4 lbs.  of  Alum,  previously  dis- 
solved, and  a little  Plum  Liquor,  according  to  the 
shade  of  redness  required. 

By  adding  more  Extract,  a darker  shade  may 
be  dyed,  and  a lighter  by  adding  less  of  it. 

By  varying  the  quantities  of  Extract  and  Plum 
Liquor,  all  the  various  shades  of  Lavender  may 
be  dyed. 


No.  2. 

10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— LAVENDER,  No.  2. 

Another  mode  of  dyeing  the  foregoing  colors  is 
as  follows:  First  dye  the  Silk,  at  boiling  heat, 
with  a little  Cudbear,  according  to  the  shade  of 
redness  required,  and  afterwards  make  up  a tub 
of  warm  water,  at  about  20°,  and  add  4 lbs.  of 


\ 


SILK-DYEING.  85 

✓ 

Alum,  and  Extract  according  to  the  shade  of  blue- 
ness it  requires. 


No.  3. 

10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— LAVENDER. 

Make  up  a tub  of  warm  water,  at  about  20°, 
add  1 lb.  of  Extract,  and  in  the  place  of  Alum 
add  Red  Liquor,  and  Logwood,  about  2 or  3 
quarts. 

The  Logwood  must  be  boiled  up  with  the  Red 
Liquor,  about  2 lbs.  of  Logwood  to  a gallon.  Any 
variety  of  shades  may  be  dyed  in  this  w’ay. 

Another  mode  of  dyeing  the  Red  shades  of 
Lavender  is  by  passing  them  through  the  Plum 
vat  when  it  is  nearly  worn  out  for  the  Plum  colors. 


No.  4. 

SPIRIT  YELLOWS. 

This  color  is  dyed  by  being  passed  through 
strong  Nitric  Acid,  and  then  through  a little  Soda 
or  Soda  ashes  in  warm  water. 

This  will  produce  a good  full  Yellow  or  light 
Orange. 


8 


86 


SILK-DYEING. 


No.  5. 

WOLD  YELLOW. 

In  a Copper  boil  up  a bunch  of  Wold,  say  4 lbs., 
fasten  it  in  the  bottom  of  the  vessel,  add  a few 
ounces  of  Pcarlash,  then  put  into  another  vessel 
as  much  of  this  clear  Liquor  as  the  shade  may  re- 
quire, with  about  4 ozs.  of  Alum. 

The  Wold  Yellows  are  very  light  bright  colors, 
and  very  fast. 


No.  6. 

10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— BARK  YELLOW. 

Boil  up  in  a bag  about  4 lbs.  of  Quercitron  Bark 
either  in  a Copper  or  clean  Tub,  add  2 lbs.  of 
Alum  and  1 pint  of  Nitrate  or  Muriate  of  Tin. 

This  will  produce  a good  full  shade  of  Yellow, 
and,  by  adding  more  or  less  of  Bark  and  Spirits, 
any  shade  of  Yellow  may  be  dyed. 


No.  7. 

10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— TURMERIC  YELLOW. 

In  a tub  scald  about  4 lbs.  of  Turmeric,  and  dye 
with  the  clear  Liquor;  in  another  tub,  at  boiling 
heat,  add  1 gill  of  Oil  of  Vitriol,  and  use  Liquor 
according  to  shade. 


SILK-DYEING. 


87 


Any  shade  of  Yellow,  from  the  lightest  to  the 
darkest,  may  be  dyed  from  Turmeric,  though  it  is 
very  fugitive. 

Some  dyers  pass  it  through  a little  Soda  after- 
wards. It  has  a tendency  to  soften  the  silk  and 
raise  the  color. 


No.  8. 

ORANGE  COLOR. 

In  a tub  of  boiling  Soap  Lather,  add  Annotta, 
according  to  shade,  and  turn  the  Silk  on  sharply; 
when  up  to  the  pattern  pass  through  cold  water  so 
that  you  may  wring  out ; wash  twice  through  cold 
water,  and  wring  up. 

The  Annotta  Liquor  for  this  color  must  he  very 
strong.  To  make  the  Liquor,  add  2 lbs.  of  An- 
notta to  1 gallon  of  boiling  Ash  Liquor,  to  be  well 
boiled,  so  that  every  particle  may  be  dissolved, 
and  only  use  the  clear  Liquor.  All  the  various 
shades  of  Orange  color  may  he  dyed  by  adding 
more  or  less  Annotta. 


No.  9. 

10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— GRAIN  CRIMSON. 

In  a tub  of  warm  water,  at  110°,  add  3 pints  of 
Nitrate  of  Tin  (or  Aqua  Fortis  killed  with  Tin), 
turn  the  Silk  in  this  Liquor  from  two  to  three 


88 


SILK-DYEING. 


hours,  then  wring  it  out,  and  stick  it  up  again  for 
the  Cochineal.  Scald  3J  lbs.  of  Cochineal  with 
boiling  water,  that  is,  about  3J  ozs.  of  Cochineal 
to  each  pound  of  Silk,  put  it  into  a bag,  and  fill  a 
tub  with  boiling  water,  and  let  it  be  poured  through 
the  bag  into  the  tub,  so  as  to  get  all  the  strength 
out  of  the  Cochineal.  Then  enter  the  Silk,  give 
a few  turns,  and  steep  in  the  Liquor  all  night.  In 
the  morning,  wring  it  out,  and  part  the  skeins  for 
blueing,  if  not  blue  enough.  Get  a tub  of  clean 
cold  water,  and  put  a few  gallons  of  the  Cochineal 
Liquor  into  it,  which  will  prevent  the  Silk  from 
having  a black  appearance,  to  which  it  is  subject, 
and  blue  in  it;  the  more  cold  water  it  has,  the 
bluer  it  will  appear. 

This  mode  of  dyeing  Crimsons  is  the  best  that 
can  be  produced,  and  if  there  were  no  other  Re- 
ceipt in  this  book,  this  is  worth  the  price  of  it. 


No.  10. 

10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— GRAIN  SCARLET. 

Stuff  or  dye  in  a Soap  Lather  with  Annotta, 
boiling  hot,  until  you  have  a good  full  Orange 
bottom,  about  the  same  as  No.  8.  Wash  well  out 
of  the  Annotta,  and  then  dye  same  as  Crimson, 
see  No.  9,  only  add  less  Cochineal;  if  a moderate 
shade  is  required,  about  2f  ozs.  to  the  pound,  but 
if  a full  shade  is  wanted,  3J  ozs.  to  the  pound. 


SILK-DYEING. 


89 


No.  11. 

SKY  BLUES  FROM  EXTRACT. 

In  the  first  place  dissolve  the  quantity  of  Ex- 
tract required  in  warm  water,  and  then  put  in  a 
quantity  of  wool,  which  will  take  up  or  absorb  the 
Extract;  afterwards  put  the  wool  into  another 
vessel,  and  add  a little  Pearlashes  to  discharge  the 
Extract  from  the  wool  again,  amUput  the  Silk  in 
the  same  Liquor.  By  this  means  the  color  will  be 
much  brighter  than  if  the  Extract  was  put  upon 
the  Silk  without  being  put  upon  the  wool.  It 
must  then  be  washed  off  in  a little  warm  water 
with  a little  Oil  of  Vitriol.  If  the  color  is  not 
sufficiently  bloomy,  pass  it  through  a little  liquid 
Archil  in  warm  water.  This  will  put  a bright 
bloomy  appearance  upon  it.  When  the  color  is 
not  required  to  be  very  bright,  the  Extract  may 
be  put  upon  the  Silk  with  a little  Alum,  at  about 
100°. 

No.  12. 

SKY  BLUES  FROM  PRUSSIATE. 

In  a tub  of  cold  water  add  Nitrate  of  Iron  until 
it  stands  at  about  1°  Twaddell,  give  the  silk  a few 
turns,  then  pass  it  through  weak  Ammonia  Liquor, 
say  about  a pint  to  30  gallons.  In  another  tub 
add  Prussiate  Liquor  according  to  shade  required  ; 
one  ounce  to  the  pound  will  make  a fine  Light 

8* 


90 


SILK-DYEING. 


Blue  : if  a darker  shade  is  required,  more  Prussiate 
must  be  added.  After  giving  a few  turns,  lift  up 
and  add  about  a noggin  of  Oil  of  Vitriol,  put 
down  again  and  give  a few  more  turns,  and  wash 
off. 


No.  13,  A. 

10  lbs.  OF  BLUE.— MAZARINE  BLUE. 

In  a copper  or  tub  at  boil,  add  6 lbs.  of  Liquid 
Archil,  give  a few  turns  and  then  pass  through 
the  Indigo  vat.  Either  the  Copperas  or  Woad 
vat  will  answer,  but  the  Woad  vat  is  preferable. 


No.  13,  B. 

10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— FRENCH  BLUE. 

Give  6 turns  in  a tub  of  cold  water  with  Nitrate 
of  Iron  at  6°  Twaddell,  then  steep  the  silk  in  the 
same  liquor  for  about  40  minutes,  wring  out  and 
wash  well,  then  give  12  turns  in  common  Soda 
water,  say  1 lb.  of  it  in  24  gallons  of  water  at 
120°,  wring  out,  and  without  washing  enter  the 
Prussiate,  1J  lb.  in  30  gallons  of  water,  to  which 
add  1 quart  of  Spirits  of  Salts  (Muriatic  Acid), 
and  give  10  turns,  then  lift  up  and  add  1 quart 
more  Salts,  give  10  turns  more,  and  wash  out. 
In  this  state  the  silk  will  appear  a very  dull  co- 
lor ; it  must  then  be  passed  through  weak  Ammo- 


/ 


SILK-DYEING. 


91 


nia  Liquor.  To  30  gallons  of  water  at  20°  add  1 
gill  of  Ammonia,  give  6 turns,  then  dry  it  sharply. 

By  passing  it  through  this  it  will  be  raised  to  a 
very  dark  bloomy  Blue,  something  like  the  Maza- 
rine. 


No.  14. 

10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— ROYAL  BLUE. 

Make  up  a tub  of  Nitrate  of  Iron  at  6°,  to  which 
add  1 pint  of  good  Muriate  of  Tin  and  4 ozs.  of  Tar- 
taric Acid,  turn  it  in  this  for  about  1 hour.  In 
another  tub  add  1J  lb.  of  dissolved  Prussiate  and 
1 gill  of  Oil  of  Vitriol,  wash  out  of  the  Iron  tub 
and  enter  the  Prussiate  tub,  repeat  in  the  Iron 
twice  and  once  in  Prussiate,  wash  out  of  the  Iron. 
In  another  tub  add  a little  Oil  of  Vitriol  until  it 
tastes  sour,  give  6 turns  in  this  to  clear  off  any 
rust  that  may  adhere  to  it.  More  Prussiate  will 
produce  a darker  color,  and  less  a lighter,  but  the 
same  quantity  of  Iron  and  Tin  must  be  used. 


No.  15. 

10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— BLUE  BLACK. 

Steep  in  Nitrate  of  Iron,  at  4°  for  about  1 hour, 
wring  out  and  wash  it.  Make  up  a tub  at  about 
120°,  add  the  clear  Liquor  from  Logwood  pre- 


92 


SILK-DYEING. 


viously  scalded,  about  the  same  weight  as  the 
silk,  and  a pailful  of  melted  Soap  to  keep  up  a 
lather,  give  12  turns;  if  not  dark  enough,  add  a 
little  more  Logwood. 


No.  16. 

10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— COMMON  FULL 
BLACK. 

Steep  in  Nitrate  of  Iron  at  4°  for  about  1 hour, 
after  giving  the  Silk  a few  turns,  wring  out  and 
wash  well  in  a tub  of  warm  water  at  about  120°, 
add  15  lbs.  of  Logwood,  scalded,  and  add  only  the 
clear  liquor,  and  5 lbs.  of  scalded  Fustic,  and  a 
little  melted  Soap.  If  the  color  is  not  flat  enough, 
add  a little  more  Fustic  liquor,  and  if  not  dark 
enough,  add  more  Logwood. 


No.  IT. 

BROWNS  OF  DIFFERENT  SHADES. 

For  a good  light  Brown,  stuff  with  Annotta 
liquor  in  a Soap  lather  up  to  a good  orange  in 
boiling  water,  after  this  wash  well  and  sadden  in 
a weak  Copperas  liquor  cold,  let  the  Copperas 
liquor  be  very  clear,  then  wash  off  and  dye  with 
Fustic  and  Archil.  All  the  light  shades  of  Browns 
may  be  dyed  after  this  manner.  When  a rather 
darker  shade  is  required,  sadden  rather  stronger. 


SILK-DYEING. 


93 


The  yellowness  of  the  color  must  be  regulated  with 
the  Fustic,  and  the  redness  with  the  Archil,  ac- 
cording to  the  shade  required. 


No.  18. 

DARK  BROWNS  OF  DIFFERENT 
SHADES. 

Stuff  with  Annotta  in  boiling  water  until  you 
obtain  a full  Orange.  Sadden  with  stronger  Cop- 
peras Liquor,  and  then  dye  with  Fustic,  Archil, 
and  Logwood. 

Any  shade  required  in  Browns  may  be  dyed 
after  this  manner,  but  it  is  impossible  to  point  out 
every  tinge  and  hue,  as  in  Browns  they  are  so 
varied.  The  Fustic  produces  the  Yellow  part  of 
the  color,  the  Archil  the  red  part,  and  the  Log- 
wood the  darkness  or  the  Blue  part,  after  the 
Copperas  or  saddening. 


No.  19. 

CALIFORNIA  BROWNS  AND  OLIVE. 

Another  mode  of  dyeing  Browns. 

Put  on  a strong  Annotta  bottom,  as  in  the  other 
Browns,  at  boiling  point,  and  wash  well  out  of  it ; 
then  scald  Fustic,  and  add  the  clear  Liquor  ac- 
cording to  shade,  and  a little  Sumach  Liquor  along 


94 


SILK-DYEING. 


with  it.  Then  sadden  in  cold  water  with  a little 
Argol  and  Copperas  Liquor,  and  when  the  shade 
is  wanted  of  a very  Olive  cast,  add  a little  Turme- 
ric with  the  Fustic. 

All  the  bright  colors  in  Snuff  Brown,  Califor- 
nia colors,  and  light  Olive  are  dyed  according  to 
this  Receipt.  The  darkness  of  the  color  must  be 
regulated  by  the  Sumach  and  Copperas. 


No.  20. 

RED  OR  CLARET  BROWN. 

. This  class  of  colors  is  dyed  with  Annotta  bot- 
toms, as  before,  and  then  passed  through  the  Plum 
vat.  They  are  perhaps  the  richest  Browns  that 
can  be  produced,  and  are  dyed  better  by  this 
means  than  by  any  other.  But  for  the  informa- 
tion of  those  who  are  desirous  of  understanding 
the  different  modes  of  dyeing  the  same  color  by 
different  ingredients,  and  in  different  modes,  I 
will  next  insert  another  mode  of  dyeing  the  Red 
Browns. 


No.  21. 

ANOTHER  MODE  OF  DYEING  RED 
BROWNS. 

First  steep  the  Silk  in  Alum,  at  about  6°  T wad- 
dell,  for  about  1 hour,  then  wash  it  well  in  Cold 


SILK-DYEING. 


95 


Water;  scald  Logwood,  Peacliwood,  and  Fustic 
separately,  and  use  the  clear  Liquor.  The  Log- 
wood must  be  used  very  sparingly,  as  it  will  darken 
very  fast.  The  Peacliwood  must  be  the  strongest, 
and  Fustic  in  a moderate  way,  as 

6 parts  of  Peachwood, 

4 parts  of  Fustic, 

1 part  of  Logwood. 

Using  quantity  according  to  shade  required,  at 
about  140°.  From  the  lightest  to  the  darkest 
shades  may  be  dyed  after  this  manner.  These 
Browns  are  dyed  sooner  and  cheaper  than  the 
saddened  Browns,  but  are  not  so  permanent. 

No.  22. 

SOUR  BROWNS. 

Almost  any  shade  of  Brown  may  be  dyed  in 
the  following  manner,  and  by  varying  the  ingre- 
dients according  to  shade  required:  Dye  with 
Camwood,  Chemic,  and  Acid. 

No.  23. 

LIGHT  CLARET  BROWNS. 

Dye  with  2 lbs.  of  Camwood,  to  each  pound  of 
Silk  add  Oil  of  Vitriol  and  a little  Red  Argol  for 
the  sour;  boil  1 hour  in  a clean  copper,  and  then 
sadden  with  a little  Chemic. 


96 


SILK-DYEING. 


No.  24. 

DARK  CLARET  BROWNS. 

Stuff  with  3 lbs.  of  Camwood  to  each  lb.  of  Silk, 
add  a little  Argol  and  Oil  of  Vitriol  for  the  acid, 
boil  an  hour  and  a half,  and  wash  it  well  out  of 
this  liquor,  and  sadden  in  cold  water  with  Cop- 
peras liquor.  The  Camwood  must  be  boiled  in 
bags. 


No.  25. 

CLARETS  AND  CHOCOLATES. 

Steep  in  Alum,  at  6°  Twaddell,  for  about  one 
hour,  wash  well  out,  and  then  dye  with  Peach- 
wood  and  Logwood,  according  to  shade ; if  a Cla- 
ret, use  very  little  Logwood,  and  if  a Chocolate, 
use  a little  more,  but  most  Peachwood,  in  all  cases. 
Dye  at  about  160°. 

All  the  various  shades  of  Claret  and  Chocolate 
may  be  dyed  by  adding  more  or  less  of  the  two 
ingredients,  Peachwood  and  Logwmod. 

No.  26. 

ANOTHER  MODE  OF  DYEING  CLARETS 
AND  CHOCOLATES. 

Boil  with  Alum  and  Peachwood  together,  and 
then  finish  in  another  vessel  with  Logwood,  ac- 
cording to  the  darkness  required. 


SILK-DYEING.  97 

The  body  of  color  in  this  mode  of  dyeing  is  put 
on  in  the  boiling,  and  the  Logwood  is  used  to  blue 
and  darken  the  same. 


No.  27. 

MOCK  CRIMSONS,  DYED  DIFFERENT 

WAYS. 

These  colors  are  dyed  by  first  boiling  in  Alum, 
and  are  then  finished  with  Peachwood  Liquor  and 
a little  Muriate  of  Tin,  at  boiling  point. 

Another  mode  is  by  steeping  the  Silk  in  Alum 
for  a few  hours,  and  then  dyeing  at  the  boiling 
point,  with  Peachwood  only. 

But  the  best  and  readiest  mode  is  by  dyeing  it 
off  at  once  with  Peachwood  Liquor  and  Muriate 
of  Tin,  as  either  light  or  dark  shades  may  be  dyed 
by  adding  Peachwood  according  to  shade  required. 

These  are  all  different  from  the  Crimson  Vat 
colors. 


No.  28. 

OLIVE. 

In  the  first  place,  sadden  the  Silk  with  Cop- 
peras Liquor,  wash  out,  and  dye  with  Fustic,  mo- 
derately strong,  at  boiling  heat.  Darken  with 
Logwood,  blue  with  Chemic,  and  when  to  pattern, 


98 


SILK-DYEING. 


wash  off  in  cold  water,  with  a little  Oil  of  Vitriol 
to  preserve  the  Chemic. 

Lighter  and  darker  shades  may  be  dyed  by 
varying  the  quantity  of  Logwood. 


No.  29. 

PURPLES. 

A variety  of  Purples  may  be  dyed  by  first  steep- 
ing the  Silk  in  Alum,  and  afterwards  dyeing  with 
Logwood  and  Oxalic  Acid. 

t 

No.  80. 

MAROONS. 

Various  shades  of  Maroons  may  be  dyed  with 
Lima  Peachwood,  Muriate  of  Tin,  and  Alum,  at 
boiling  point. 


No.  81. 

MAROONS,  ANOTHER  WAY. 

Dye  with  Cudbear,  at  boiling  heat,  and  add  a 
little  Young  Fustic  and  Muriate  of  Tin. 

Any  shade  of  Maroon  may  be  dyed  by  adding 
or  diminishing  the  Cudbear,  according  to  shade 
required. 


SILK- DYEING. 


99 


No.  32. 

RUBY. 

The  Ruby  is  dyed  from  Cudbear  alone ; it  will 
produce  a fine  color  of  itself.  When  a Blue  shade 
is  required,  add  a little  Ammonia,  and  when  a 
Red  shade  is  required,  add  a little  Muriate  of 
Tin. 


No.  33. 

DAUNCE  BLACK. 

Give  10  turns  in  Nitrate  of  Iron  at  4°,  then  fill 
up  with  Prussiate,  about  2 ozs.  to  the  pound,  re- 
peat twice,  wash  out  of  the  Iron,  and  sadden  with 
Copperas. 

If  a darker  shade  is  required,  pass  through  a 
little  Logwood. 

This  color  is  dyed  with  a Blue  bottom,  so  that 
it  may  not  be  discharged  or  spotted  with  Acid,  as 
Blacks  are  generally  subject  to  be. 


No.  34. 

VIOLET. 

A variety  of  shades  of  this  color  may  be  dyed 
by  first  steeping  the  Silk  in  Alum,  and  then  dye- 
ing with  a little  Cudbear  and  Logwood,  according 
to  shade. 


100 


SILK-DYEING. 


If  a very  blue  shade  is  required,  add  a little 
Ammonia,  and  if  a red  shade  is  required,  add  a 
little  Alum  with  the  Cudbear.  Clean  cold  water 
will  blue  this  class  of  colors.  The  Violets  are 
not  all  dyed  in  this  manner : some  are  dyed  in  a 
Plum  Vat. 


No.  36. 

10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— LIGHT  GREEN. 

In  a tub  of  cold  water,  add  6 lbs.  of  dissolved 
Alum,  give  the  Silk  a few  turns,  steep  it  in  the 
same  Liquor  all  night  and  wash  it  out  next  morn- 
ing. Boil  up  10  lbs.  of  chipped  Ebony  Wood, 
put  the  clear  Liquor  into  another  tub  of  water, 
at  100°,  give  6 turns,  lift  up,  and  add  about  1 gill 
of  Extract  of  Indigo,  or  more,  according  to  shade 
required. 


No.  37. 

10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— MIDDLE  GREEN. 

Steep  in  Alum  for  about  twelve  hours,  same  as 
No.  36,  wash  out  of  the  Alum,  boil  up  20  lbs.  of 
Fustic,  and  use  the  clear  liquor,  at  about  120°  ; 
give  10  turns,  then  lift  up,  and  add  Extract  ac- 
cording to  shade  required. 

If  a yellower  shade  is  required,  add  more  Fus- 
tic, or  a little  Turmeric  Liquor. 


SILK-DYEING. 


101 


No.  38. 

10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— DARK  GREEN. 

Steep  the  Silk  same  as  in  last  Receipt,  and 
dye  in  a tub  of  water,  at  about  120°,  with  Fustic 
or  Turmeric  Liquor,  and  Extract,  according  to 
shade. 


No.  39. 

BOTTLE  GREEN. 

The  Bottle  Green  and  Dark  Olive  shades  are 
dyed  in  all  respects  the  same  as  the  foregoing 
Greens,  but  must  be  passed  through  Copperas 
Liquor,  and  then  in  another  tub  of  lukewarm 
water  add  a little  Logwood  Liquor. 


No.  40. 

OTHER  GREENS  OF  DIFFERENT 
SHADES. 

In  a tub  of  water,  at  140°,  add  about  4 lbs.  of 
Alum,  and  Fustic  Liquor,  Extract,  and  Cliemic, 
according  to  shade.  Dye  off  in  this,  and  when 
according  to  pattern,  wash  in  cold  water,  to  which 
add  a little  Oil  of  Vitriol  to  keep  the  Blue  on  the 
Silk. 

By  this  mode  of  dyeing  Greens,  all  the  various 

9* 


102 


SILK-DYEING. 


shades  may  he  got,  and  any  tinge  or  hue,  by  add- 
ing Fustic  or  Turmeric  Liquor,  according  to  tint 
required.  It  is  a readier  mode  of  dyeing  the 
Greens,  and  equally  as  good. 

No.  41. 

FAST  GREEN  WITH  A BLUE  BOTTOM. 

First  pass  the  silk  through  the  Copperas  vat, 
and  put  on  the  body  of  blue  required  for  the 
shade,  then  dye  at  boiling  heat  with  Fustic  ac- 
cording to  shade  required,  with  a little  Alum  for 
the  sour  to  work  on  the  Fustic.  When  an  Olive 
shade  is  required,  add  a little  Turmeric.  All 
shades  of  middle  and  dark  Green  may  be  dyed 
after  this  receipt,  and  the  colors  dyed  in  this  way 
are  not  so  soon  stained  as  the  other;  thev  are 
also  more  durable  bv  having  a vat  bottom. 

O 


No.  42. 

LIGHT  OLIVES,  OF  DIFFERENT 
SHADES. 

This  class  of  colors  is  the  best  with  a light 
Blue  bottom,  and  dyed  off’  at  the  boiling  point, 
with  Turmeric  Liquor  and  a little  Archil. 

When  the  Green  shade  is  required,  add  a little 
Turmeric  only,  and  when  a Redder  shade  is 
required,  add  a little  Archil  also.  Some  of  the 


103 


STLK- DYEING. 

finest  colors  may  be  produced  after  this  manner. 
The  bright  Acanthuses,  Ottoman  Leaves,  and 
Bronzes  are  dyed  in  this  way. 


No.  43. 

10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— FLESH  COLOR  OR 

BUFF. 

Make  up  a tub,  at  boiling  point,  with  a little 
White  Soap,  4 ozs.  of  Pearlash,  and  2 quarts  of 
Annotta  Liquor ; enter  the  Silk,  and  turn  on 
until  it  be  dyed  to  pattern. 

Lighter  or  darker  shades  may  be  dyed  by  add- 
ing more  or  less  Annotta  Liquor. 


No.  44. 

10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— SALMON. 

This  color  is  dyed  the  same  as  Flesh  color,  but 
must  be  passed  through  a little  Muriate  of  Tin  in 
a tub  of  warm  water  afterwards,  in  order  to  raise 
the  Redness  of  the  color. 


No.  45. 

10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— GOLD  COLOR. 

Dye  at  boiling  heat  in  a Soap  lather,  with 
Annotta  according  to  shade  required.  If  a full 


104 


SILK- DYEING. 


shade  is  required,  a full  shade  of  Annotta  color 
must  be  put  upon  the  Silk,  and  if  lighter  shades 
arc  required,  a lighter  bottom  must  be  put  on. 
After  which,  boil  up  4 lbs.  of  Bark,  with  1 quart 
of  Muriate  of  Tin ; the  Bark  must  be  put  into  a 
bag.  Cool  the  vessel  down  a little,  enter  the 
Silk,  and  turn  it  for  about  twenty  minutes. 

If  it  is  not  yellow  enough,  take  out  the  Silk, 
and  put  it  in  the  bag  with  1 pint  more  of  Tin 
Spirits,  boil  it  a little,  and  then  enter  the  Silk 
again. 


No.  46. 

10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— YELLOW  FAWN 
DRAB. 

To  a tub  of  warm  water  add  1 quart  of  An- 
notta Liquor,  1 lb.  to  a gallon  of  water,  and  8 
ozs.  of  Pearlash ; to  this  add  2 lbs.  of  scalded 
Fustic  and  8 ozs.  of  Sumach  ; enter,  give  10  turns, 
lift  up,  and  throw  out  a few  pailfuls  of  the  Liquor; 
dissolve  8 ozs.  of  Argol  and  2 lbs.  of  Copperas  in 
1 gallon  of  water,  add  1 quart  of  this  to  the 
Liquor,  and  if  not  flat  enough  add  more  of  it. 


SILK-DYEING. 


105 


No.  47. 

10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— FAWN  DRAB. 

To  a tub  of  warm  water,  add  1 pint  of  Annotta 
Liquor,  1 lb.  of  Sumach,  and  1 lb.  of  Fustic;  and 
sadden  down  with  Copperas  Liquor,  according  to 
shade. 


No.  48. 

10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— FLAT  DRAB. 

To  a tub  of  warm  water  add  1 gill  of  Annotta, 
1 lb.  of  Fustic,  1J  lb.  of  Sumach,  and  sadden  in 
another  tub  of  cold  water  with  Copperas  Liquor, 
according  to  the  shade  of  deadness  required. 


No.  49. 

HEAVY  DRABS. 

Dye  in  a killed  Liquor,  at  about  100°,  with  a 
little  Fustic  Liquor,  a little  Archil,  and  a little 
Chemic. 

Any  shade  of  Drabs  of  a heavy,  flat,  or  dark 
appearance  may  be  dyed  in  this  way,  from  these 
ingredients. 

The  Liquor  is  said  to  be  killed,  when  a quan- 
tity of  Copperas  Liquor  is  poured  into  it.  For 
these  shades  it  requires  about  J a noggin  to  10 
lbs.  of  Silk. 


106 


SILK-DYEING. 


No.  50. 

SLATE  DRAB. 

Dye  in  killed  Liquor  with  a little  Fustic  Liquor, 
and  a little  Logwood  Liquor  ; if  not  Blue  enough, 
add  a little  Chemic. 


No.  51. 

10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— BRONZE  DRAB. 

In  a tub  of  warm  water,  at  100°,  add  1 lb.  of 
Fustic  and  6 ozs.  of  Archil,  and  then  sadden  with 
Copperas  Liquor. 

These  shades  of  Drab  are  all  very  distinct,  the 
last  three  especially.  Perhaps  there  is  as  much 
difference  in  the  shades  as  is  possible  to  be  made 
in  Drabs  ; but  all  the  varieties  of  shades  that 
come  between  these  may  be  dyed  according  to 
the  preceding  Receipts,  which  is  the  way  that 
most  drabs  are  dyed.  I will  now  give  a few  Re- 
ceipts of  another  mode  of  dyeing  Fawns  by 
means  of  Acid  instead  of  a killed  Liquor. 

Almost  all  Silk  requires  to  be  passed  through  a 
mode  of  softening,  as  it  is  called  by  Silk-Dyers. 
It  is  made  as  follows:  Add  2 lbs.  of  Sweet  Oil  to 
1 lb.  of  Sulphuric  Acid  (Oil  of  Vitriol),  and  stir 
it  quickly  when  mixing.  This  will  form  a sort  of 
paste,  which  will  mix  with  water,  not  floating  on 


SILK-DYEING. 


107 


the  top,  like  Oil.  A little  of  this  must  be  added 
to  a tub  of  cold  water,  and  the  Silk  passed  through 
it,  which  will  give  it  a very  smooth  finish,  and 
cause  it  to  spin  much  better  than  it  otherwise 
would. 


No.  52. 

ANOTHER  MODE  OF  DYEING  DRABS. 

A great  variety  of  Drabs  may  be  dyed,  at 
boiling  heat,  with  a little  Oil  of  ATtriol  for  the 
sour,  and  a little  Argol.  Many  of  the  Fawn 
shades  would  require  only  a little  liquid  Archil 
and  Madder  Liquor,  less  or  more,  according  to 
shade. 

Some  of  the  brightest  colors  of  light  Fawns 
may  be  dyed  in  this  manner  ; and  by  adding  a 
little  Chemic  to  flatten  or  sadden  with,  a still 
greater  variety  may  be  dyed.  The  colors  dyed  in 
this  manner  are  firmer  and  less  liable  to  stain  than 
those  dyed  in  a killed  Liquor. 


No.  53. 

SOUR  BROWNS. 

A great  variety  of  Browns  may  be  dyed  with 
Acid,  using  Camwood  for  the  Red  part  of  the 
color,  Turmeric  for  the  Yellow  part,  and  then 


108 


SILK-DYEING. 


sadden  with  Copperas  in  another  vessel  cold. 
After  a good  body  of  Camwood  is  got  upon  the 
Silk,  it  may  be  saddened  down  to  either  a light  or 
a dark  shade. 


No.  54. 

FRENCH  WHITE. 

This  color  is  first  bleached,  and  then  dyed  with 
Archil  and  Chcmic.  Make  up  a tub  at  about 
160°,  to  which  add  a little  liquid  Archil,  and 
either  a little  Chemic  or  Extract,  with  a pailful 
of  Soap  Lather.  This  will  put  down  the  Yellow- 
ness of  color,  and  raise  it  to  a fine  clear  White. 
Be  careful  not  to  add  too  much  of  either  Archil 
or  Chcmic,  as  it  requires  very  little. 

Another  mode  of  dyeing  a White  is  by  stoving 
it  with  Sulphur. 


No.  55. 

PINKS  FROM  SAFFLOWER. 

The  Safflower  for  Light  Pinks  is  first  put  upon 
cotton,  and  then  discharged  from  the  cotton,  and 
then  put  upon  the  silk  in  the  following  manner: 
The  Safflower  is  spent  with  Pearlashes  in  the 
usual  way,  and  the  Liquor  put  into  a vessel  with 
water,  and  then  a quantity  of  either  Cotton  Yarns 


SILK-DYEING. 


109 


or  Cotton  Wool  steeped  in  the  Liquor,  so  as  to 
take  up  the  strength  of  it. 

The  Cotton  must  then  be  put  into  another  ves- 
sel of  clean  water,  with  a portion  of  Pearlashes, 
which  will  discharge  the  strength  of  the  Safflower 
from  the  cotton,  and  clear  it  from  all  dirt.  The 
silk  must  then  be  dyed  in  the  same  Liquor  with  a 
little  Oil  of  Vitriol.  The  whole  of  this  process 
must  be  cold.  By  this  means  the  color  will  be 
clear  and  bright. 


No.  56. 

PINKS  FROM  PE  AC  II  WOOD. 

This  color  may  be  dyed  either  by  being  passed 
through  the  Crimson  Vat,  or  by  first  steeping  the 
Silk  in  Alum,  and  then  dyeing  it  with  Peachwood, 
at  boiling  heat;  by  using  a little  Muriate  of  Tin 
the  color  will  be  much  brighter. 


No.  57. 

GRAIN  PINKS. 

This  class  of  Pinks  may  be  dyed  in  various  ways. 
One  manner  is:  first  pass  the  Silk  through  Red 
Liquor,  and  then  dye,  at  boiling  heat,  with  the 
clear  Liquor  from  scalded  Cochineal. 

10 


110 


SILK-DYEING. 


Another  mode  is:  first  steep  it  in  Alum,  and 
dye  same  as  when  passed  through  Red  Liquor. 

And  another  mode  is  by  dyeing  it  the  same 
as  dyeing  Grain  Crimson,  only  using  much  less 
Cochineal. 


No.  58. 

MOCK  SCARLET. 

Get  a good  Annotta  bottom  on,  the  same  as  for 
the  other  Scarlet,  until  it  appears  a good  Orange ; 
then  wash,  and  spend  about  4 or  5 lbs.  of  Peach- 
wood  to  10  lbs.  of  Silk;  add  the  clear  Liquor  to 
a tub  of  hot  water,  give  10  turns,  and  then  pass 
through  the  Crimson  Vat. 

Another  mode  is  to  dye  it,  at  boiling  heat,  with 
Peafthwood  Liquor  and  Muriate  of  Tin ; after  the 
Annotta,  Orange  is  put  on  it  as  in  the  other 
mode. 


No.  59. 

REAL  PARIS  BLACKS. 

In  a tub  of  water,  at  180°,  made  up  with  8 
parts  of  Fustic,  and  1 part  of  Bark  Liquor,  add 
2 ozs.  of  Verdigris,  and  1 oz.  of  Copperas  to  every 
pound  of  Silk.  Steep  the  Silk  in  this  all  night, 
after  giving  it  a few  turns.  In  the  morning, 


SILK-DYEING. 


Ill 


wring  out,  and  wash  well  twice  over.  Then  make 
the  Silk  up  for  dyeing  in  a Logwood  Liquor,  at 
150°.  This  must  be  dyed  in  a Soap  Lather.  If 
the  shade  required  he  a dark  one,  much  Logwood 
must  be  used ; if  it  has  a green  appearance,  use 
more  Logwood,  and  when  dark  enough  wash  twice 
over.  Then  stick  up  the  Silk  for  softening  in 
warm  water.  The  softening  must  be  a little  Soda 
and  Neat’s-foot  Oil.  This  is  the  best  Black  that 
can  be  dyed. 


No.  60. 

NAPOLEON  BLUE,  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE 
THE  SPIRITS  FOR  THE  SAME. 

Into  a tub  put  100  lbs.  of  Spirits  of  Salts 
(Muriatic  Acid),  to  which  add  7 lbs.  of  Feathered 
Tin;  put  the  jar  into  boiling  water,  and  keep  up 
the  heat  until  the  tin  be  all  eaten  awTay.  Into 
another  jar  about  the  same  size  put  the  same 
quantity  of  Spirits  of  Salts,  to  which  add  Iron 
filings  until  it  will  eat  no  more  (it  will  be  continu- 
ally eating  for  two  or  three  days,  and  will  require 
to  be  kept  warm  all  the  time),  and  after  settling 
it  will  be  ready  for  use.  This  is  the  real  Muriate 
of  Iron,  the  former  the  real  Muriate  of  Tin. 

Some  prefer  Nitrate  of  Iron  to  Muriate  of  Iron, 
which  may  be  made  as  follows: — 


112 


SILK-DYEING. 


Into  ajar  of  about  the  same  size  put  about  the 
same  quantity  of  Aqua  fortis  (Nitric  Acid),  at  about 
20°  Twaddell,  to  which  add  Iron  filings,  as  in  the 
other  Spirits,  until  it  wfill  eat  no  more ; add  only 
a little  of  it  at  once,  as  it  is  subject  to  boil  over 
v7hen  too  much  is  added  at  a time;  it  will  not 
require  heat  as  the  other  Spirit. 

These  are  the  Spirits  to  be  used  in  proportion 
as  follows:  Into  a half-pipe  tub  of  cold  water  add 
2 quarts  of  the  Muriate  of  Tin,  and  the  same 
quantity  of  Muriate  or  Nitrate  of  Iron,  and  1 lb. 
of  Tartaric  Acid.  This  is  the  Mordant  for  the 
Silk. 

In  another  tub  of  the  same  size  add  6 lbs.  of 
Alum,  previously  dissolved.  Then  add  2 ozs.  of 
the  Red  Prussiate  of  Potash  to  every  lb.  of  Silk 
to  be  dyed.  In  this,  give  the  Silk  10  turns;  the 
Liquor  must  be  at  about  100° ; then  slightly  wash, 
enter  the  Mordant  tub,  give  10  turns,  wring  out, 
wash  it  again,  and  repeat  in  each  until  you  get 
the  shade  required.  It  may  require  5 or  6 rounds, 
or  more,  according  to  the  darkness  of  the  color. 
This  will  dye  a good  color ; if  a Bluer  shade  is 
required,  add  more  of  the  Nitrate  or  Muriate  of 
Iron,  and  less  of  Muriate  of  Tin ; and  if  a 
Redder  shade  is  required,  add  more  of  the  Mu- 
riate of  Tin,  and  less  of  the  Nitrate  or  Muriate 
of  Iron  for  the  Mordant. 


118 


SILK- DYEING. 

The  Yellow  Prussiate  of  Potash  will  produce 
nearly  the  same  shade  of  color,  with  the  same 
weight  of  it  as  of  the  Red. 

The  Silk  must  pass  through  the  Mordant  the 
last,  and  not  through  the  Prussiate ; after  which, 
it  must  be  washed  out  and  put  to  soak  in  Fuller’s 
earth  for  a few  hours;  then  wash  it  out  of  the 
earth,  and  pass  it  through  the  Mordant  again 
with  about  10  turns  more ; then  wring  it  out,  not 
wash  it.  ready  for  getting  up.  In  another  tub  of 
cold  water  add  a little  Tartaric  Acid,  sufficient  to 
keep  the  color;  to  a spoonful  of  the  best  Oil  add 
the  least  drop  of  Oil  of  vitriol,  put  this  into  the 
tub,  and  give  the  Silk  a few  turns,  and  then  wring 
it  out.  If  the  Silk  does  not  appear  dark  enough, 
dry  it  hot ; but  if  dark  enough,  dry  it  cool. 

This  is  for  the  first  day’s  work;  the  second  will 
not  require  so  many  dye-wares.  For  the  next 
day’s  work,  only  add  about  one-half  of  the  Spirits 
of  each  kind,  and  for  the  Mordant,  much  of  the 
strength  of  the  other  will  be  left  in  the  tub. 
Take  the  clear  liquor  from  the  Prussiate  tub  and 
throw  down  the  sediment,  and  add  only  1J  oz.  of 
Prussiate  to  the  pound  of  Silk  in  the  place  of  2 
ozs.;  heat  up  to  100°,  and  add  about  the  same 
quantity  of  Alum  as  before,  and  dye  in  all  re- 
spects the  same  as  the  previous  day. 

10* 


WOOLLEN  YARN  DYEING. 


No.  1. 

20  BUNCHES  44s.— PEA  GREEN,  VERY 
FINE  SHADE. 

Dye  at  boiling  heat  with  2 lbs.  of  Alum, 

10  lbs.  of  Wold, 

8 ozs.  of  Liquid  Extract, 

1 lb.  of  Brown  Tartar,  and 
1 gill  of  Spirits. 

Flatter  Greens  about  the  same  shades  may  be 
dyed  without  Spirit  and  Wolds,  by  using  Fustic 
in  the  place  of  both  ; but  the  color  will  not  be 
anything  like  the  same  in  point  of  brightness. 


No.  2. 

0 GROSS  OF  80s.— SILVER  DRAB. 

Dye  with  4 ozs.  of  Logwood, 

1 oz.  of  Cudbear,  and 
4 ozs.  of  Alum. 


<M  CM 


WOOLLEN  YARN  DYEING.  115 

No.  3. 

16  BUNCHES  36s.— CALIFORNIA  COLOR. 

Dye  with  5 lbs.  of  Crop  Madder. 

2 lb3.  of  Camwood, 
lbs.  of  Fustic, 
ozs.  of  Alum. 

1 lb.  of  Copperas. 


No.  4. 

24  BUNCHES.— BRIGHT  VICUNA. 

Dye  with  5 lbs.  of  Crop  Madder. 

2 lbs.  of  Fustic. 

2 ozs.  of  Alum. 

And  2 ozs.  of  Copperas. 


No.  5. 

10  BUNCHES.— LIGHT  FIERY  BROWN. 

Dye  with  6 lbs.  of  Fustic. 

2J  lbs.  of  Camwood. 

3 lbs.  of  Madder. 

8 ozs.  of  Copperas. 


116 


WOOLLEN  YARN  DYEING. 


No.  6. 

6 GROSS  32s.— MIDDLE  OLIVE. 

Dye  with  16  lbs.  of  Camwood. 

12  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

10  lbs.  of  Mull  Madder. 

12  ozs.  of  Copperas. 


No.  7. 

5 GROSS  32s.— RED  LAVENDER. 

Dye  with  2J  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

8 ozs.  of  Cudbear. 

And  2 ozs.  of  Alum. 


No.  8. 

6 GROSS  30s.— RED  DRAB. 

Dye  with  1 lb.  of  Logwood. 

4 ozs.  of  Cudbear. 

And  4 ozs.  of  Alum. 


No.  9. 

12  BUNCHES.— RUBY. 

Dye  with  2J  lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

If  a Blue  shade  is  required,  add  1 gill  of  Am- 
monia, and  if  a Red  shade,  add  1 tot  of  Spirits. 


WOOLLEN  YARN  DYEING. 


117 


No.  10. 

24  BUNCHES.— WINE  COLOR. 

Boil  it  20  minutes  with  4 ozs.  of  Chrome,  and 
finish  it  in  a clean  vessel  with  4 lbs.  of  Cudbear, 
and  4 ozs.  of  Logwood.  This  boiling  with  Chrome 
is  called  Chroming. 


No.  11. 

24  BUNCHES.— FINE  CLARET. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  10. 

Finish  with  2 lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

6 lbs.  of  Lima  Peachwood. 


No.  12. 

6 GROSS  32s.— YELLOW  BROWN. 

Dye  with  10  lbs.  of  Camwood. 

10  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

8 lbs.  of  Madder. 

8 ozs.  of  Copperas. 


118 


WOOLLEN  YARN  DYEING. 


No.  13. 

24  BUNCHES,  SPUN  TO  18  OUNCES.— 
MIDDLE  GREEN. 

Dve  to  middle  shade  of  Blue  in  the  Yat,  and 
fill  up  with 
6 lbs.  of  Fustic. 

2 lbs.  of  Alum. 

1 tot  of  Chemic. 


No.  14. 

G GROSS  32s.— GOOD  BROWN. 

Dye  with  20  lbs.  of  Camwood. 

10  lbs.  of  Madder. 

10  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

2 lbs.  of  Copperas. 


No.  15. 

5 GROSS  32s.— DARK  PURPLE. 

Boil  with  10  lbs  of  Alum. 

2 lbs.  of  Argol. 

Fill  up  with  13  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

To  dye  the  shade  another  way. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  10. 

Finish  with  2 lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

4 lbs.  of  Logwood. 


WOOLLEN  YARN  DYEING. 


119 


No.  16. 

20  BUNCHES.— SEA  GREEN. 

Dye  with  1 lb.  of  Alum. 

6 lbs.  of  Fustic. 

1 gill  of  Extract. 


No.  IT. 

24  BUNCHES.— DARK  BROWN. 

Dye  with  6 lbs.  of  Camwood. 

12  ozs.  of  Crop  Madder. 

1 lb.  of  Mull  Madder. 

1 lb.  of  Fustic. 

4 ozs.  of  Logwood. 

And  2 ozs.  of  Copperas. 


No.  18. 

4 GROSS  32s.— DARK  DRAB. 

Dye  with  1 lb.  of  Fustic. 

8 ozs.  of  Logwood. 

8 ozs.  of  Madder. 

4 ozs.  of  Camwood. 

And  3 ozs.  of  Copperas. 


120 


WOOLLEN  YARN  DYEING. 


No.  19. 

20  BUNCHES  36s.— MAROON. 

Dye  with  4 lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

And  1 lb.  of  Camwood. 


No.  20. 

20  BUNCHES  86s.— SCARLET. 

Dye  with  1 lb.  of  Tartar. 

10  ozs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

12  ozs.  of  Cochineal. 

1 pint  of  Spirits. 


No.  21. 

20  BUNCHES  44s.— CINNAMON  BROWN. 

Dye  with  5 lbs.  of  Crop  Madder. 

3 lbs.  of  Camwood. 

2 lbs.  of  Fustic. 

2 ozs.  of  Alum. 

And  1 oz.  of  Copperas. 

No.  22. 

20  BUNCHES.— GRAIN  CRIMSON. 

Dye  with  1 lb.  of  Cochineal. 

1 lb.  of  Tartar. 

1 pint  of  Spirits. 


WOOLLEN  YARN  DYEING. 


121 


No.  23. 

20  BUNCHES. — FULL  PINK. 

Dye  with  4 ozs.  of  Cochineal. 

1 pint  of  Spirits. 

1 lb.  of  Tartar. 


No.  24. 

20  BUNCHES.— SALMON  COLOR. 

Dye  with  2 ozs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

1 lb.  of  Tartar. 

4 ozs.  of  Cochineal. 

1 pint  of  Spirits. 


No.  25. 

20  BUNCHES.— FULL  GRAIN  ROSE. 

Dye  with  8 ozs.  of  Cochineal. 

1 lb.  of  Tartar. 

1 pint  of  Spirits. 


No.  26. 

20  BUNCHES.— LIGHT  BUFF. 

Dye  with  1 lb.  of  Tartar. 

J oz.  of  Cochineal. 

4 ozs.  of  Fustic. 

1 pint  of  Spirits. 

Darker  shades  may  be  dyed  by  adding  more 
Cochineal,  according  to  shade  required, 

11 


122 


WOOLLEN  YARN  DYEING. 


No.  27. 

20  BUNCHES.— LIGHT  YELLOW. 

Dye  with  1 lb.  of  Alum. 

1 lb.  of  Tartar. 

2 lbs.  of  Bark. 

2 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

3 gills  of  Spirits. 

Fuller  shades  of  Yellow  are  dyed  by  adding 
more  Fustic. 


No.  28. 

20  BUNCHES.— ORANGE. 

Dye  with  1 lb.  of  Tartar. 

8 ozs.  of  Cochineal. 

1 pint  of  Spirits. 


No.  29. 

20  BUNCHES.— BOTTLE  GREEN. 

After  getting  a good  Blue  bottom  in  the  Vat, 
dye  with 

1 lb.  of  Tartar. 

2 lbs.  of  Alum. 

10  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

1 gill  of  Chemic. 


WOOLLEN  YARN  DYEING. 


123 


No.  30. 

20  BUNCHES.— INVISIBLE  GREEN. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  10,  and  finish  with 
4 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

8 lbs.  of  Fustic. 

2 ozs.  of  Red  Argol. 

If  a Yellower  shade  is  required,  add  more  Fustic, 
and  if  darker,  more  Logwood. 


No.  31. 

20  BUNCHES.— DARK  BLUE. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  10,  and  finish  with  5 lbs. 
of  Logwood,  and  if  not  Red  enough,  add  a handful 
of  Cudbear. 


No.  32. 

20  BUNCHES.— BLUE  BLACK. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  10,  and  finish  with  10  lbs. 
of  Logwood. 


No.  33. 

20  BUNCHES.— FULL  BLACK. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  10,  and  finish  with  15  lbs. 
of  Logwood,  and  4 lbs.  of  Fustic. 


124 


WOOLLEN  YARN  DYEING. 


No.  84. 

20  BUNCHES.— ROYAL  BLUE. 

Dye  with  2 lbs.  of  Prussiate  of  Potash. 

2 quarts  of  Blue  Spirits. 

To  be  entered  cold,  and  heated  up  as  quickly 
as  possible;  when  boiled  15  minutes,  get  out,  and 
add 

1 quart  of  finishing  Spirits. 

Enter  again,  and  boil  15  minutes  more. 

If  a dark  shade  is  required,  add  a little  Log- 
wood with  the  finishing  Spirits. 

No.  35. 

20  BUNCHES.— APPLE  GREEN. 

Dye  with  8 ozs.  of  Logwood. 

4 lbs.  of  Fustic. 

2 ozs.  of  Alum, 

And  2 ozs.  of  Copperas. 


No.  36. 

20  BUNCHES.— LIGHT  OLIVE. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  10,  and  finish  with 
4 lbs.  of  Fustic. 

1 lb.  of  Logwood, 

4 ozs.  of  Alum. 


U|M  tO 


WOOLLEN  YARN  DYEING. 


125 


No.  37. 

20  BUNCHES.— DARK  OLIVE. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  10,  and  finish  with 
4 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

6 lbs.  of  Fustic.  ^ 

4 ozs.  of  Alum. 


No.  38. 

20  BUNCHES.— BROWN  OLIVE. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  10,  and  finish  with 
4 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

6 lbs.  of  Fustic. 

2 lbs.  of  Camwood,  or  a little  Cudbear. 

4 ozs.  of  Alum. 


No.  39. 

20  BUNCHES.— FAWN  DRAB. 

Dye  with  1 lb.  of  Red  Argol. 

1 lb.  of  Fustic, 
ozs.  of  Cudbear, 
oz.  of  Chemic. 


No.  40. 

10  BUNCHES.— DOVE  COLOR. 

Dye  with  10  ozs,  of  Brown  Tartar. 

2 spoonfuls  of  Chemic. 

2 ozs.  of  Cudbear, 


11* 


126 


WOOLLEN  YARN  DYEING. 


No.  41. 

10  BUNCHES.— BLUE  LAVENDER. 

This  shade  is  dyed  with  Acid,  and  not  the  same 
as  the  Red  Lavender,  No.  T. 

Dye  with  1 lb.  of*  Tartar. 

2 ozs.  of  Paste  Cudbear. 

4 ozs.  of  Chemic. 


No.  42. 

10  BUNCHES.— SKY  BLUE. 

Dye  with  1 gill  of  Vitriol. 

1 lb.  of  Red  Argol. 

1 tot  of  Liquid  Extract. 


No.  43. 

10  BUNCHES.— SAXON  BLUE. 

Dye  with  1 gill  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

1 lb.  of  Argol. 

1 gill  of  Liquid  Extract. 

No.  44. 

20  BUNCHES.— SAGE  DRAB. 

Dye  with  2 lbs.  of  Argol. 

1 lb.  of  Old  Fustic. 

1 oz.  of  Chemic. 

1 handful  of  Cudbear. 


WOOLLEN  YARN  DYEING. 


127 


No.  45. 

20  BUNCHES.— CHROMED  GREEN. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  10,  and  finish  with  4 lbs. 
of  Logwood  and  6 lbs.  of  Fustic. 


No.  46. 

DARK  CHROMED  GREEN. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  10,  and  finish  with  6 lbs. 
of  Logwood  and  10  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

These  Greens  will  much  resemble  the  Greens 
dyed  with  Blue  bottoms,  but  are  not  so  perma- 
nent. 


£To.  47. 

20  BUNCHES.— LIGHT  AND  DARK 
CLARET. 

Boil  with  10  lbs.  of  Alum. 

2 lbs.  of  Argol. 

Finish  with  8 lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

1 lb.  of  Logwood. 

If  darker  shades  are  required,  add  more  Log- 
wood. 


128 


WOOLLEN  YARN  DYEING. 


No.  48. 

MOCK  CRIMSON. 

Boil  with  10  lbs.  of  Alum. 

2 lbs.  of  Argol. 

After  boiling  an  hour,  wash  well,  and  finish  in 
a clear  vessel  with  10  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

1 gill  of  Spirits. 

2 pails  of  Urine. 

Without  the  Urine  it  will  be  a Mock  Maroon. 


No.  49. 

12  BUNCHES.— GRAIN  MAROON. 

Dye  with  1 pint  of  Spirits. 

IJlb.  of  Cochineal. 

1 lb.  of  Tartar. 

Wash,  and  in  another  vessel  give  it 
1 lb.  of  Cudbear,  and  wash  off. 

No.  50. 

80  BUNCHES.— DARK  CHOCOLATE. 

Dye  v'ith  85  lbs.  of  Sanders  Wood, 

15  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

4 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

4 lbs.  of  Copperas, 


WOOLLEN  YARN  DYEING. 


129 


No.  51. 

80  BUNCHES.— HEAVY  BROWN. 

Dye  with  20  lbs.  of  Sanders  Wood. 

24  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

5 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

4 lbs.  of  Copperas. 


No.  52. 

80  BUNCHES.— HARK  CLARET  BROWN. 

Hye  with  24  lbs.  of  Sanders  Wood. 

4 lbs.  of  Fustic. 

8 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

4 lbs.  of  Copperas. 


No.  58. 

80  BUNCHES.— DARKER  CLARET 
BROWN. 

Dye  with  36  lbs.  of  Sanders  Wood. 

8 lbs.  of  Fustic. 

10  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

6 lbs.  of  Copperas. 


130 


WOOLLEN  YARN  DYEING. 


No.  54. 

100  BUNCHES.— FULL  RED  BROWN. 

Dye  with  34  lbs.  of  Sanders  Wood. 

15  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

5 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

1 lb.  of  Red  Argol. 

G lbs.  of  Copperas. 


No.  55. 

50  BUNCHES.— FULL  YELLOW  BROWN. 

Dye  with  10  lbs.  of  Sanders  Wood. 

24  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

5 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

4 lbs.  of  Copperas. 


No.  56. 

DARKER  YELLOW  BROWN. 

20  lbs.  of  Sanders  Wood. 

40  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

6 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

6 lbs.  of  Copperas. 


WOOLLEN  YARN  DYEING. 


131 


No.  5T. 

50  BUNCHES.— DARK  OLIVE. 

Dye  with  36  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

8 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

2 lbs.  of  Argol. 

2 lbs.  of  Alum. 

2 lbs.  of  Copperas. 


No.  58. 

50  BUNCHES.— DARKER  SHADE  OF 

OLIVE. 

40  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

10  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

2 lbs.  of  Alum. 

2 lbs.  of  Argol. 

4 lbs.  of  Copperas. 


No.  59. 

80  BUNCHES.— VERY  DARK  CLARET. 

. 35  lbs.  of  Sanders  Wood. 

20  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

6 lbs.  of  Copperas. 

2 pails  of  Urine  in  the  saddening. 

It  is  to  be  understood  that  where  Copperas 
is  used  in  these  Yarns  it  is  for  the  saddening. 


WORSTED  YARN  DYEING. 


+ 


No.  1. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— SLATE  PURPLE. 

Previous  to  Dyeing,  the  yarns  must  be  well 
scoured  with  Soap  and  hot  Water,  at  80°.  Then 
boil  twenty  minutes  with  2 lbs.  of  Chrome,  then 
wash  and  finish  with  10  lbs.  of  Logwood,  1 lb.  of 
Cudbear,  and  boil  half  an  hour,  then  clean  and 
dry  off. 


No.  2. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— RED  PURPLE. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  1,  and  finish  with  10  lbs. 
of  Logwood,  and  6 lbs.  of  Cudbear;  boil  twenty 
minutes  in  the  finishing. 

No.  8. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— FULL  RED  PURPLE. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  1,  and  finish  with  10  lbs. 
of  Logwood,  and  10  lbs.  of  Cudbear;  boil  twenty 
minutes. 


WORSTED  YARN  DYEING. 


133 


No.  4. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— ROYAL  BLUE. 

6 lbs.  of  Prussiate,  6 quarts  of  Blue  Spirits, 
enter  cold,  and  heat  up  to  boiling  quickly,  and 
turn  them  over  sharply,  after  boiling  twenty 
minutes,  get  out,  and  add  3 quarts  of  finishing 
Spirits.  Enter  again,  and  boil  a quarter  of  an 
hour,  get  out  again,  add  3 gills  more  of  finishing 
Spirits,  and  2 lbs.  of  Logwood.  Enter  again,  and 
turn  them  a quarter  of  an  hour  very  quickly. 

For  darker  shades,  add  more  Logwood,  and  for 
lighter,  less  Logwood. 


No.  5. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— GRAIN  MAROON. 

Boil  forty  minutes  with  8 lbs.  of  Tartar,  3 
quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin,  5 lbs.  Cochineal,  then 
wash  in  clean  water,  and  finish  in  a clean  vessel 
with  4 lbs.  of  Cudbear,  and  boil  a quarter  of  an 
hour. 

No.  6. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— MOCK  CRIMSON. 

Boil  one  hour  with  30  lbs.  of  Alum  and  8 lbs. 
of  Argol,  then  wash  well  in  clean  water,  and  fin- 
ish in  a clean  vessel  with  30  lbs.  of  Peachwood,  1 
pint  of  Nitrate  of  Tin,  and  4 quarts  of  Ammonia. 

12 


134 


WORSTED  YARN  DYEING. 


No.  7. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— CLARET. 

Boil  same  as  No.  6,  and  finish  with  4 lbs.  of 
Logwood,  30  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 


No.  8. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— LIGHT  VICUNA. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  3 lbs.  of  Argol. 

1  lb.  of  Blue  Vitriol. 

1 lb.  of  Cudbear. 

5 lbs.  of  Fustic. 


No.  9. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— DARK  VICUNA. 

Boil  one  hour  with  4 lbs.  of  Argol. 

2  lbs.  of  Blue  Vitriol. 

2 lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

7 lbs.  of  Fustic. 

7 lbs.  of  Madder. 


* -■  .No.  10. 

80  lbs.  OP  YARN.— OAK  DRAB. 

Boil  half  an  hour  writh  3 lbs.  of  Argol. 

3  lbs.  of  Blue  Vitriol. 

20  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

A handful  of  Cudbear. 


WORSTED  YARN  DYEING. 


135 


No.  11. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— BOTTLE  GREEN. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  8 lbs.  of  Red  Argol,  2 
lbs.  of  Blue  Vitriol,  30  lbs.  of  Fustic,  4 quarts  of 
Chemic,  and  1 lb.  of  Cudbear. 

Most  shades  of  dark  Green  may  be  dyed  as  well 
with  Chrome,  which  would  be  a saving  of  two- 
thirds  of  the  expense. 


No.  12. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— APPLE  GREEN. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  8 lbs.  of  Argol. 

3 lbs.  of  Blue  Vitriol. 

30  lbs.  of  Fustic, 
f of  a pint  of  Liquid  Extract. 


No.  13. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— KNOT  GREEN. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  8 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

8 lbs.  of  Alum. 

30  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

1 pint  of  Liquid  Extract. 


136 


WORSTED  YARN  DYEING. 


No.  14. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— SEA  GREEN. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  8 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

2 lbs.  of  Alum. 

5 lbs.  of  Fustic. 

1 gill  of  Liquid  Extract. 


No.  15. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— DARK  SEA  GREEN. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  8 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

4 lbs.  of  Alum. 

10  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

1 quart  of  Liquid  Extract. 


No.  16. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— MOCK  MAROON. 

Boil  twenty  minutes  with  16  lbs.  of  Cudbear. 
1 quart  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 


No.  IT. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— GREEN  OLIVE. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  8 lbs.  of  Argol. 

3 lbs.  of  Blue  Vitriol. 

30  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

1 quart  of  Liquid  Extract. 


WORSTED  YARN  DYEING. 


137 


No.  18. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— DARK  OLIVE. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  8 lbs.  of  Argol. 

3 lbs.  of  Blue  Vitriol. 

30  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

2 quarts  of  Chemic. 

1 lb.  of  Cudbear. 


No.  19. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— DAHLIA. 

Boil  twenty  minutes  with  12  lbs.  of  Cudbear. 
1 quart  of  Ammonia. 


No.  20. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— RUBY. 

Boil  twenty  minutes  with  12  lbs.  of  Cudbear. 


No.  21. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— APPLE  GREEN. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  1. 

Finish  with  3 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

40  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

Boil  20  minutes. 


12* 


138 


WORSTED  YARN  DYEING. 


No.  22. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— INVISIBLE  GREEN. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  1. 

Finish  with  30  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

30  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

Boil  20  minutes. 


No.  23. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— BOTTLE  GREEN. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  1. 

Finish  with  10  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

25  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

Boil  twenty  minutes. 


No.  24. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— BROWN  OLIVE. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  25  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

20  lbs.  of  Madder. 

Then  get  the  Yarns  out  of  the  vessel,  and  add 
2 lbs.  of  Blue  Vitriol. 

2 lbs.  of  Copperas. 

Put  them  in  again  and  turn  20  minutes. 


WORSTED  YARN  DYEING. 


139 


No.  25. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— GREEN  OLIVE. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  1. 

Finish  with  6 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

30  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

Boil  20  minutes. 


No.  28. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— CANARY  COLOR. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  5 lbs.  of  Quercitron  Bark. 
4 lbs.  of  Alum. 

2 quarts  of  Spirits. 


No.  2T. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— FULL  YELLOW. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  30  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 
4 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

2 quarts  of  Spirits. 


No.  28. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— ORANGE. 

Boil  1 hour  with  2 lbs.  of  Cochineal. 

30  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

4 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

3 quarts  of  Spirits. 


140 


WORSTED  YARN  DYEING. 


No.  29. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— GRAIN  CRIMSON. 

Boil  1 hour  with  8 lbs.  of  Paste  Cochineal. 

1 lb.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

4 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

2 quarts  of  Spirits. 


No.  30. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— ROSE. 

Boil  1 hour  with  3J  lbs.  of  Paste  Cochineal. 
4 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

2 quarts  of  Spirits. 


No.  31. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— PINK. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  2 lbs.  of  Paste  Cochineal. 
4 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

2 quarts  of  Spirits. 


To  make  Cochineal  Paste. — Add  3 gills  of 
Strong  Ammonia  to  1 lb.  of  Cochineal,  and  mix 
it  well  in  a Jar,  put  the  Jar  into  a Vessel  of  boiling 
water,  keeping  the  water  out  of  the  Jar,  during 
about  8 hours,  or  upon  a warm  Sand-Bath  during 
about  12  hours,  or  upon  a Boiler. 


WORSTED  YARN  DYEING. 


141 


No.  32. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— IMITATION  OF 
INDIGO  BLUE. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  1. 

Finish  with  20  lbs.  of  Logwrood. 

1 pint  of  Ammonia. 

Boil  20  minutes. 


No.  33. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— LIGHT  BROWN. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  1. 

Finish  with  30  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

20  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

Boil  20  minutes. 


No.  34. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— CLARET  BROWN. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  1. 

Finish  with  30  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

Boil  20  minutes. 


WORSTED  YARN  DYEING. 


*u 


142 


No.  85. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— SNUFF  COLOR. 

Boil  1 hour  with  25  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

20  lbs.  of  Madder. 

2 lbs.  of  Blue  Vitriol. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


No.  86. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— FULL  BLACK. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  1. 

Finish  with  40  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

15  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

Boil  20  minutes. 


No.  37. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— BLUE  BLACK. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  1. 

Finish  with  30  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Boil  20  minutes. 


No.  38. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— FAWN  DRAB. 
Boil  half  an  hour  with  8 lbs.  of  White  Argol. 
2 lbs.  of  Fustic. 

1 handful  of  Cudbear. 

2 spoonfuls  of  Cl.emie. 


WORSTED  YARN  DYEING. 


143 


No.  39. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— LILAC. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  8 lbs.  of  Tartar. 
1 lb.  of  Cudbear. 

Half  a gill  of  Liquid  Extract. 


No.  40. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— LAVENDER. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  8 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

1 lb.  of  Paste  Cudbear. 

1 pint  of  Liquid  Extract. 


No.  41. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— LIGHT  PUCE. 
Boil  20  minutes  with  5 lbs.  of  Archil. 


No.  42. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— SLATE  DRAB. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  8 lbs.  of  Argol. 

3 lbs.  of  Fustic. 

3 handfuls  of  Cudbear. 

1 gill  of  Chemic. 


144 


WORSTED  YARN  DYEING. 


No.  43. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— SAGE  DRAB. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  8 lbs.  of  Argol. 

2 lbs.  of  Fustic. 

2 handfuls  of  Cudbear. 

2 spoonfuls  of  Chemic. 


No.  44. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— RED  CINNAMON 

BROWN. 

Boil  2 hours  with  40  lbs.  of  Camwood,  or  Red 
Sanders. 

No  Saddening. 


No.  45. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— DARK  BROWN. 

Boil  same  as  the  last. 

Sadden  with  1 lb.  of  Blue  Vitriol. 

3 lbs.  of  Copperas. 

Turn  them  on  half  an  hour  without  boiling. 

No.  46. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— DARK  RED  BROWN. 

Boil  same  as  No.  44. 

Sadden  with  4 lbs.  of  Copperas. 


WORSTED  YARN  DYEING. 


145 


No.  47. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— GRAIN  SCARLET. 

Boil  1 hour  with  5 lbs.  of  Cochineal. 

20  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

7 lbs.  of  White  or  Brown  Tartar. 

3 quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin,  or  Oxalic  Muriate  of 
Tin,  which  is  preferable. 


No.  48. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— SALMON. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  12  ounces  of  Dry  Cochi- 
neal. 

4 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

2 quarts  of  Spirits. 


No.  49. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— SKY  BLUE. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  8 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

1 gill  of  Liquid  Extract. 


No.  50. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— SAXON  BLUE. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  1 pint  of  Liquid  Extract. 
8 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

13 


146 


WORSTED  YARN  DYEING. 


No.  51. 

80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— DOVE  COLOR. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  8 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

1 gill  of  Extract. 

1 lb.  of  Paste  Cudbear. 

Brighter  shades  of  this  color  may  be  got  by 
adding  Paste  Cochineal  instead  of  Cudbear,  but 
to  brighten  Cudbear,  run  through  a little  Ammo- 
nia and  warm  Water. 


WOOLLEN-DYEDTGr. 


No.  1. 

2 Pieces , LONG-WOOLS,  80  lbs.  each. — 
GRAIN  SCARLET. 

Boil  1 hour  with  9 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic,  6 lbs.  of 
Tartar. 

6 quarts  of  Spirits;  finish  in  a clean  vessel  with 
4J  lbs.  of  Lac,  4J  lbs.  of  Cochineal,  4 quarts 
of  Spirits,  besides  the  6 pints  mixed  with  the 
Lac.  Boil  1 hour. 

Jgsgp1  The  Spirit  to  be  used  is  Nitrate  of  Tin, 
or  two  parts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin,  and  one  part  of 
Oxalic  Muriate  of  Tin,  which  is  preferable. 


No.  2. 

4 Pieces , BOCKINS,  86  lbs.  each.— SCARLET. 

Boil  1J  hour  with  12  lbs.  of  Lac,  10  lbs.  of  Young 
Fustic,  6 lbs.  of  Tartar,  and  13  quarts  of  Spi- 
rits. 


148 


WOOLLEN-DYEING. 


No.  8. 

4 Pieces,  ORANGE  LISTS,  85  lbs.  each.— 

SCARLET. 

Dye  with  10  lbs.  of  good  Lac. 

6 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

6 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

3 gallons  of  Spirits. 

Boil  1J  hour. 

No.  4. 

2 Pieces , SAVED  LISTS,  70  lbs.  each.— 
SCARLET. 

Dye  with  10  lbs.  of  Lac. 

6 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

8 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

3 gallons  of  Spirits. 

Boil  1J  hour. 

No.  5. 

2 Pieces,  LONGWOOLS,  75  lbs.  each.— LAC 

SCARLET. 

Dye  with  12  lbs.  of  Lac. 

8 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

2 lbs.  of  Rasped  Fustic. 

9 quarts  of  Spirits. 

Boil  1J  hour. 


WOOLLEN-DYEING. 


149 


No.  6. 

20  Pieces , SERGES,  8 lbs.  each. — SCARLET. 

Dye  with  20  lbs.  of  Lac. 

12  lbs.  of  Tartar. 

10  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

12  quarts  of  Spirits. 

Boil  1 hour. 


No.  T. 

6 Ends,  FINE  SAVED  LISTS,  20  lbs.  each.— 

SCARLET. 

Dye  with  14  lbs.  of  Lac. 

7 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

8 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

6 quarts  of  Spirits. 

Boil  14  hour. 


No.  8. 

4 Pieces , GOLD  LISTS,  40  lbs.  each. — 

ORANGE. 

Dye  with  2 lbs.  of  Cochineal. 

12  lbs.  of  Quercitron  Bark. 

} lb.  of  Lac. 

6 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

12  pints  of  Bark  Spirits. 

Boil  1 hour. 

18* 


150 


WOOLLEN-DYEING. 


No.  9. 

2 Ends , BOCKINS,  68  lbs.  each.— SALMON. 

Dye  with  J lb.  of  Cochineal. 

J lb.  of  Paste  Cochineal. 

4 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

1 lb.  of  Fustic. 

12  pints  of  Spirits. 

Boil  1 hour. 


No.  10. 

4 Pieces,  ORANGE  LISTS.  85  lbs.  each.— 

SALMON. 

Dye  with  2J  lbs.  of  Cochineal. 

4 lbs.  of  Rasped  Fustic. 

4 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

7 quarts  of  Spirits. 

Boil  1 hour. 


No.  11. 

2 Pieces , LONGWOOLS,  80  lbs.  each.— 
GRAIN-ROSE. 

Dye  with  4 lbs.  of  Cochineal. 

4 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

13  pints  of  Spirits. 

Blue  up  in  a cistern  of  warm  water,  with  Urine 
according  to  shade  required. 


WOOLLEN-DYEING. 


No.  12. 

4 Pieces,  ORANGE  LISTS,  84  lbs.  each. 
GOLD  COLOR. 

Roil  1 hour  with  2 lbs.  of  Cochineal. 

12  ozs.  of  Lac. 

18  lbs.  of  Quercitron  Bark. 

12  lbs.  of  Bark  Spirits. 

Boil  1 hour. 

No.  18. 

6  Ends , ORANGE  LISTS,  28  lbs.  each. 
GRAIN-ROSE. 

5J  lbs.  of  Cochineal. 

7  lbs.  of  Tartar. 

9 quarts  of  Spirits. 

Blue  as  No.  11. 

Boil  1 hour. 


No.  14. 

* 

8  Pieces,  SAVED  LISTS,  58  lbs.  each. 
FULL  RED  CRIMSON. 

Dye  with  4 lbs.  of  Lac.  . 

1J  lb.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

7 lbs.  of  Paste  Cochineal. 

7 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

10  quarts  of  Spirits. 

Boil  1 hour. 


152 


WOOLLEN-DYEING. 


No.  15. 

4 Pieces , ORANGE  LISTS,  34  lbs.  each. — 
LIGHT  ROSE. 

Dye  with  2J  lbs.  of  Cochineal. 

2  lbs.  of  Alum. 

6 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

6 quarts  of  Spirits. 


No.  16. 

2 Pieces , LONGWOOLS,  80  lbs.  each.— 
ROSE  COLOR. 

6 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

2 lbs.  of  Alum. 

6 quarts  of  Spirits. 

Boil  1 hour. 

List  them  over  a Ilorse-tree,  without  washing,  till 
next  day ; then  finish  with 
J lb.  of  Paste  Cochineal. 

2J  lbs.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

3 pints  of  Spirits. 

No.  IT. 

4 Ends , LITTLE  BOCKINS,  25  lbs.  each.— 

YELLOW. 

Dye  with  4 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

12  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

7 quarts  of  Spirits. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


WOOLLEN-DYEING. 


153 


No.  18. 

6 Ends , GOLD  LISTS,  84  lbs.  each— FULL 

YELLOW,  OR  AMBER. 

Dye  with  12  lbs.  of  Quercitron  Bark. 

12  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

7 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

5 quarts  of  Spirits. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


No.  19. 

4 Pieces , ORANGE  LISTS,  30  lbs.  each. — 

SKY  BLUE. 

Dye  with  10  lbs.  of  Crystals. 

10  lbs.  of  Alum. 

2 quarts  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

3gill  s of  Liquid  Extract. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


No.  20. 

4 Ends,  GOLD  LISTS,  30  lbs.  each— DOVE 

COLOR. 

Dye  with  1 lb.  of  Paste  Cochineal. 

8  lbs.  of  Tartar. 

10  spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Boil  40  minutes. 


154 


WOOLLEN-DYEING. 


No.  21. 

2 Pieces. , BROADCLOTHS,  42  Yards  each.— 

CRIMSON. 

Dye  with  3 lbs.  of  Lac. 

4J  lbs.  of  Cochineal. 

6 quarts  of  Spirits. 

Clean  and  blue  in  a cistern  of  warm  water  with 
5 lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

8 pails  of  Urine. 


No.  22. 

20  Pieces , SERGES,  8 lbs.  each.— GREEN. 

Dye  with  40  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

4 pints  of  Chemic. 

4 lbs.  of  Argol. 

8 lbs.  of  Alum. 

Boil  1 hour. 


No.  23. 

4 j Ends,  CLOTH,  24  lbs.  each. — ROYAL 

BLUE. 

Dye  with  G lbs.  of  Prussiate. 

6 quarts  of  Royal  Blue  Spirits. 

Enter  cold  and  heat  up  quickly,  and  turn  on 
sharply,  after  boiling  20  minutes  get  out,  and  add 
2 quarts  of  Finishing  Spirits,  enter  again,  and 
boil  20  minutes. 


WOOLLEN-DYEING. 


155 


No.  24. 

4 Ends , 24  lbs.  each.— DARK  ROYAL  BLUE. 

Dye  with  6 lbs.  of  Prussiate. 

6 quarts  of  Royal  Blue  Spirits. 

Enter  cold  and  heat  up  quickly,  and  turn  on 
sharply ; after  boiling  20  minutes,  get  out,  and 
add  2 quarts  of  Finishing  Spirits;  enter  again, 
and  boil  20  minutes ; get  out,  and  cool  over,  then 
add  2 lbs.  of  Logwood,  and  1 quart  of  Finishing 
Spirits.  Boil  20  minutes. 


No.  25. 

10  Pieces , SERGES,  8 lbs.  each. — ROYAL 

BLUE. 

Dye  with  8 lbs.  of  Prussiate. 

8 quarts  of  Royal  Blue  Spirits. 

3 quarts  of  Finishing  Spirits. 

Logwood  according  to  shade  required. 

Heat  up  same  as  No.  23. 


No.  26. 

4 Pieces , ORANGE  LISTS,  34  lbs.  each.— 
ROYAL  BLUE. 

Dye  with  6 lbs.  of  Prussiate. 

6 quarts  of  Royal  Blue  Spirits. 

3 quarts  of  Finishing  Spirits. 

1,  2,  3,  or  4 lbs.  of  Logwood,  according  to  shade. 


156 


WOOLLEN-DYEING. 


No.  27. 

2 Pieces , LONGWOOLS,  80  lbs.  each. — 
ROYAL  BLUE. 

Dye  with  6 lbs.  of  Prussiate. 

12  pints  of  Royal  Blue  Spirits. 

6 pints  of  Finishing  Spirits. 

Logwood  according  to  shade. 

Heat  same  as  No.  24. 


No.  28. 

Gold  Lists  are  dyed  in  all  respects  as  No.  26. 


No.  29. 

2 Pieces , LONGWOOLS,  80  lbs.  each. — 

GREEN. 

Dye  with  60  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

1 pint  of  Chemic. 

10  lbs.  of  Alum. 

10  lbs.  of  Argol. 


Boil  1 hour. 


WOOLLEN-DYEING. 


157 


No.  80. 

4 Ends , LADIES’  CLOTHS,  25  yards  eacli. — 

PURPLE. 

Boil  2J  hours  with  40  lbs.  of  Alum. 

8 lbs.  of  Argol. 

1 quart  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Wash  well  and  finish  with  30  lbs.  of  Logwood,  and 
4 lbs.  of  Peachwood,  in  a clean  vessel. 

Enter  cool  in  the  finishing,  and  heat  up  to  the 
boiling  point. 

No.  31. 

4 Pieces , PILOT  CLOTHS,  120  lbs.  each.— 
DARK  BROWN. 

Stuff  with  40  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

40  lbs.  of  Sanders. 

6 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Sadden  with  6 lbs.  of  Copperas. 


No.  32. 

8 Ends,  NARROW  HONLEYS,  40  yards 
each.— DARK  CLARET  BROWN. 

Stuff  with  70  lbs.  of  Sanders. 

10  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

6 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Sadden  with  8 lbs.  of  Copperas. 

1 cupful  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

14 


158 


WOOLLEN-DYEING. 


No.  33. 

1 Piece,  FLUSHING,  112  lbs.— BLACK. 

Stuff  with  10  lbs.  of  Copperas. 

3 lbs.  of  Blue  Vitriol. 

3 lbs.  of  Argol. 

2 lbs.  of  Sumach. 

2 lbs.  of  Fustic. 

Finish  with  30  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Boil  1 hour. 


To  Bye  tiie  same  with  Chrome  : — 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  1 lb.  of  Chrome. 

J lb.  of  Bed  Argol. 

Wash  well,  and  then  finish  with  24  lbs.  of  Log- 
-wood. 

Boil  40  minutes. 


No.  34. 

12  Ends,  BOCKINS.— PEACHWOOD  BED. 

Boil  3 hours  with  60  lbs.  of  Alum. 

20  lbs.  of  Bed  Argol. 

Finish  in  a pan,  4 at  a time,  with  40  lbs.  of  solid 
Peacliwood. 

1 gill  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

For  Bluer  shades  add  a little  thine. 


WOOLLEN-DYEING. 


159 


No.  35. 

2 Pieces , LONGWOOLS,  80  lbs.  each.— 

GREEN. 

Dye  with  3 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

10  lbs.  of  Alum. 

3 gills  of  Chemic. 

20  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

Boil  1 hour. 

No.  36. 

2 Pieces , LONGWOOLS,  80  lbs.  each.— 
CHESTNUT  BROWN. 

Stuff  with  120  lbs.  of  Sanders. 

16  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

In  the  middle  of  the  saddening,  add  a pint  of  Oil 
of  Vitriol. 

Sadden  with  J lb.  of  Copperas. 


No.  37. 

3 Pieces , BROADCLOTHS.— DARK 
GREEN. 

Dye  with  10  lbs.  of  Argol. 

6 lbs.  of  Madder. 

5 pints  of  Chemic. 

40  lbs.  of  Fustic. 


Boil  2 hours. 


160 


WOOLLEN-DYEING. 


No.  88. 

8 Pieces , LONGWOOLS,  80  lbs.  each,— 
CLARET  BROWN. 

Stuff  with  60  lbs.  of  Sanders. 

80  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

5 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Sadden  with  8 lbs.  of  Copperas. 


No.  89. 

4 Pieces, , LADIES’  CLOTIL— CHROMED 

GREEN. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  1 lb.  of  Chrome. 

Finish  with  20  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

10  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Boil  half  an  hour  in  the  finishing. 


No.  40. 

2 Pieces , BOCKINS,  40  lbs.  each. — 
CLARET. 

Stuff  with  30  lbs.  of  Sanders. 

6 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Sadden  with  6 lbs.  of  Copperas. 

2 pailfuls  of  Urine. 

Lighter  or  Darker  Shades  may  be  got  by  giv- 
ing more  or  less  Logwood  in  the  Stuffing,  and 
more  or  less  Copperas  in  the  Saddening. 


WOOLLEN-DYEING. 


161 


No.  41. 

2  Pieces , LADIES’  CLOTH.— BLOWN 

OLIVE. 

Stuff  with  30  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

6 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

3  lbs.  of  Sanders. 

Sadden  with  4 lbs.  of  Copperas. 


No.  42. 

2 Pieces , FLUSHINGS,  100  lbs.  each.— 
MULE  DRAB. 

Dye  in  the  Grease,  stuff  with  14  lbs.  of  Cam- 
wood. 

1 lb.  of  Fustic. 

4  lbs.  of  Sumach. 

24  lbs.  of  Madder. 

Sadden  with  6 lbs.  of  Copperas. 

No.  43. 

2 Pieces , FLUSHINGS,  100  lbs.  each. — 
STONE  DRAB. 

Dye  in  the  Grease,  with  20  lbs.  of  Madder. 

1 lb.  of  Logwood. 

1 lb.  of  Cudbear. 

2 lbs.  of  Sumach. 

1 lb.  of  Copperas. 


14* 


1G2 


WOOLLEN-DYEING. 


No.  44. 

2 Pieces , FLUSHINGS.— FAWN  DRAB. 

Dye  with  6 lbs.  of  Madder. 

2 lbs.  of  Camwood. 

2 handfuls  of  Fustic. 

2 handfuls  of  Cudbear. 

4 ounces  of  Copperas. 


No.  45. 

TO  DYE  10  STONES  OF  WOOL  NUT 

BROWN. 

Stuff  with  GO  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

20  lbs.  of  Sanders. 

Add  1 cup  of  Oil  of  Vitriol  in  the  middle  of  the 
stuffing. 

Then  sadden  with  4 lbs.  of  Copperas. 


No.  46. 

TO  DYE  4 DRUGGETS,  70  lbs.  each,  A 
GOOD  LIGHT  CLARET. 

Boil  3 hours  with  GO  lbs.  of  Alum. 

10  lbs.  of  Argol. 

1 pint  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

3 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Finish  with  40  lbs.  of  Lima  Peachwood. 


WOOLLEN-DYEING. 


1G3 


No.  47. 

TO  DYE  4 DRUGGETS  A GOOD 
CRIMSON. 

Boil  3 hours  with  60  lbs.  of  Alum. 

10  lbs.  of  Argol. 

1 pint  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Clean,  and  finish  with  solid  Peachwood,  and  a 
little  Ammonia,  according  to  shade. 


No.  48. 

TO  DYE  2 PIECES,  BOCKINS,  40  lbs. 
each,  A GOOD  LOGWOOD  BLUE. 

Boil  with  10  lbs.  of  Alum. 

5 lbs.  of  Argol. 

1 quart  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

Finish  with  16  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

3 pails  of  Urine. 


104 


WOOLLEN-DYEING. 


No.  49. 

TO  DYE  4 PIECES,  FLUSHINGS,  LOG- 
WOOD BLUE. 

Boil  2 hours  with  3 lbs.  of  Blue  Vitriol. 

3 lbs.  of  Red  Argol. 

3 gills  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

20  lbs.  of  Alum. 

Then  clean  and  finish  with  20  lbs.  of  Chipped 
Logwood. 

4 pails  of  Urine. 

Enter  at  150°,  and  heat  up  to  the  boiling  point. 
This  is  a good  mode  of  dyeing  Logwood  Blues. 

No.  50. 

Wools  are  prepared  the  same  way,  and  dyed 
with  the  same  ingredients,  weight  for  weight,  as 
Yarns  and  Woollen  Pieces  are. 


No.  51. 

NEW  MODE  OF  DYEING  LOGWOOD  BLUES. 
2 Pieces , WOOLLEN  CLOTHS,  200  lbs. 
each.— OF  ANY  QUALITY. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  1 lb.  of  Chrome. 

4 lbs.  of  Alum. 

1 lb.  of  Red  Argol. 

Clean  and  finish  with  35  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Boil  half  an  hour  in  the  finishing. 


WOOLLEN-DYEING. 


165 


This  is  the  best  mode  of  dyeing  a Logwood 
Blue.  It  will  bear  exposure  to  the  atmosphere 
almost  as  well  as  Indigo  Blue. 


No.  52. 

2 Pieces,  BOCKINS,  40  lbs.  each.— 
MAROON. 

Boil  3 hours  with  30  lbs.  of  Alum. 

5 lbs.  of  Red  Argol. 

1 lb.  of  Logwood. 

Clean  and  finish  with  30  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

6 pails  of  Urine. 


DAMASK-DYEING. 


No.  1. 

10  Pieces , f COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— PINK  AND  WHITE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  10  ozs.  of  Paste  Cochi 
neal. 

5 lbs.  of  Alum. 

2 lbs.  of  White  Tartar. 

4 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  30  minutes. 


No.  2. 

10  Pieces,  | WORSTED  DAMASK.— PINK. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  1J  lb.  of  Paste  Cochi- 
neal. 

4 lbs.  of  Alum. 

4 lbs.  of  White  Tartar. 

6 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  1 hour. 

Lighter  or  darker  shades  may  be  dyed  by  add- 
ing more  or  less  Paste  with  the  same  quantity  of 
Acid. 


DAMASK-DYEING. 


167 


No.  3. 

10  Pieces , f COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASK.— SALMON  AND  WHITE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  4 ozs.  of  Dry  Cochi- 
neal. 

5 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

5 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  50  minutes. 


No.  4. 

10  Pieces , l WORSTED  DAMASK.— 
SALMON. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  8 ozs.  of  Dry  Cochi- 
neal. 

10  pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

6 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

Boil  1 hour. 

If  a Yellower  shade  is  required,  add  4 ozs.  of 
Ground  Fustic. 


No.  5. 

10  Pieces,  | COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— ROSE  COLOR. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  1 lb.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 
4 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

2 lbs.  of  Alum. 

6 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  40  minutes. 


168  DAMASK-DYEING. 

No.  6. 

10  Pieces , f WORSTED  DAMASKS.— ROSE 

COLOR. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  1 J lb.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 
5 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

4 quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  1 hour. 

If  Bluer  shades  are  required,  let  one-half  of 
the  Cochineal  be  paste,  and  the  other  half  dry, 
and  rather  less  Nitrate  of  Tin.  # 


No.  T. 

10  Pieces , COTTON  AND  WORSTED  DA- 
MASKS.—WHITE  AND  LIGHT  RED 
CRIMSON. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  2 lbs.  of  Alum. 

4 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

1J  lb.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

4 quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  40  minutes. 


DAMASK-DYEING. 


169 


No.  8. 

10  Pieces,  f WORSTED  DAMASKS.— 
LIGHT  RED  CRIMSON. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  4 lbs.  of  Alum. 

6 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

2J-  lbs.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

10  pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  1 hour. 


No.  9. 

10  Pieces , COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— GRAIN  CRIMSON. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  4 lbs.  of  Paste  Cochi- 
neal. 

2 lbs.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

2 lbs.  of  Alum. 

4 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

10  pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  40  minutes. 


15 


170 


DAMASK-DYEING. 


No.  10. 

10  Pieces , f WORSTED  DAMASK.— GRAIN 

CRIMSON. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  5 lbs.  of  Paste  Cochi- 
neal. 

2J  lbs.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

5 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

3 lbs.  of  Alum. 

6 quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  1 hour. 

When  the  shades  are  not  required  very  blue, 
more  Dry  Cochineal  must  be  used,  and  less  Paste 
Cochineal,  and  if  wanted  Bluer,  use  more  Paste 
Cochineal,  and  less  Dry  Cochineal. 


No.  11. 

10  Pieces,  | DAMASK  COTTON  AND 
WORSTED.— BUFF  AND  WHITE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  2 ozs.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 
1 lb.  of  Young  Fustic. 

4 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

6 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  4Q  minutes. 


DAMASK-DYEING. 


171 


No.  12. 

10  Pieces , WORSTED  DAMASKS.— BUFF. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  3 ozs.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 
1J  lb.  of  Young  Fustic. 

6 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

8 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Darker  shades  may  be  dyed  by  adding  more 
Cochineal,  and  the  same  quantity  of  other  ingre- 
dients. 


No.  13. 

10  Pieces,  f COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— STRAW  COLOR 
AND  WHITE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  5 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 
10  ozs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

1 oz.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

6 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  20  minutes. 


No.  14. 

10  Pieces , | WORSTED  DAMASKS.— 
STRAW  COLOR. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  6 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 
12  ozs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

1J  oz.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

8 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  40  minutes. 


172 


DAMASK-DYEING. 


No.  15. 

10  Pieces , | COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— YELLOW  AND  WHITE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  5 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 
5 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

5 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  20  minutes. 


No.  16. 

10  Pieces,  | DAMASKS.— YELLOW. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  6 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 
6 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

8 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 

Darker  shades  of  Yellow  may  be  dyed  by  add- 
ing more  Fustic,  and  using  the  same  quantity  of 
the  other  ingredients.  If  very  bright  shades  are 
required,  use  more  Spirits  in  the  dyeing. 


No.  17. 

10  Pieces,  f COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASK.— LAC  SCARLET 
AND  WHITE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  7 lbs.  of  Lac. 

5 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

8 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

5 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar  or  White  Argol. 

Boil  1 hour. 


/ 


DAMASK-DYEING.  173 

No.  18. 

10  Pieces,  f WORSTED  DAMASKS.— LAC 

SCAITLET. 

m 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  6 lbs.  of  White  Argol. 
6 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

10  pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

8 lbs.  of  Lac. 

Boil  1 hour. 


No.  19. 

10  Pieces,  | COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— GRAIN  SCARLET 
AND  WHITE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  5 lbs.  of  Dry  Cochi- 
neal. 

5 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

8 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  1 hour. 


15* 


174 


DAMASK-DYEING. 


No.  20. 

10  Pieces , WORSTED  DAMASKS.— GRAIN 

SCARLET. 

Dye  with  6 lbs.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

6 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

10  pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

2J  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

Boil  1 hour. 

This  is  the  real  Grain  Scarlet.  It  can  be  imi- 
tated with  Lac  Dye,  but  is  not  quite  so  bright. 


No.  21. 

10  Pieces , | COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— LIGHT  ORANGE 
AND  WHITE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  5 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 
6 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

G lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

12  ozs.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

Boil  40  minutes. 


DAMASK-DYEING. 


1T5 


No.  22. 

10  Pieces , f WORSTED  DAMASKS.— 
ORANGE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  T lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 
8 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

10  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

1J  lb.  of  Cochineal. 

Boil  1 hour. 

When  Yellower  shades  are  wanted,  use  more 
Fustic,  and  when  Redder  shades  are  wanted,  use 
more  Cochineal,  with  the  same  quantity  of  Spirits 
and  Tartar. 


No.  23. 

10  Pieces , f COTTON  AND  WORSTED  DA- 
MASKS.—SKY  BLUE  AND  WHITE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs.  of  Common 
Crystals. 

3 pints  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

§ of  a pint  of  Liquid  Extract. 

2 spoonfuls  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

1 oz.  of  Prussiate  of  Potash. 

Boil  40  minutes. 


176 


DAMASK-DYEING. 


No.  24. 

10  Pieces , f WORSTED  DAMASKS.— SKY 

BLUE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  2 quarts  of  Oil  of 
Vitriol. 

20  lbs.  of  Crystals. 

1 tot  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

1 pint  of  Liquid  Extract. 

2 ozs.  of  Prussiate  of  Potash. 

The  Prussiate  will  give  the  color  a bloomy  ap- 
pearance, which  is  difficult  to  get  without  it. 


No.  25. 

10  Pieces , | COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— SAXON  BLUE 
AND  WHITE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs.  of  Crystals. 
2 quarts  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

2 ozs.  of  Prussiate. 

1 tot  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

1 pint  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Boil  1 hour. 


DAMASK-DYEING. 


177 


No.  26. 

10  Pieces , f WORSTED  DAMASKS.— 
SAXON  BLUE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs.  of  Crystals. 

2 quarts  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

4 ozs.  of  Prussiate. 

1 tot  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

3 gills  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Boil  1 hour. 

If  Darker  shades  are  required,  add  more  Liquid 
Extract,  according  to  shade. 


No.  27. 

10  Pieces , f COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— LIGHT  GREEN 
AND  WHITE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  15  lbs.  of  Alum. 

6 lbs.  of  White  Argol. 

15  lbs.  of  Chipped  Fustic. 

1 tot  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Boil  1 hour. 


178 


DAMASK-DYEING. 


No.  28. 

10  Pieces , f WORSTED  DAMASKS.— 
LIGHT  GREEN. 

Dye  with  20  lbs.  of  Alum. 

20  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

8 lbs.  of  White  Argol. 

If  tot  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Boil  1 hour. 

If  the  shade  is  required  Bluer,  add  a little  more 
Extract,  and  if  Yellower,  a little  more  Fustic. 


No.  29. 

10  Pieces , £ COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— MIDDLE  GREEN 
AND  WHITE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  6 lbs.  of  White  Argol. 
15  lbs.  of  Alum. 

1 gill  of  Chemic. 

20  lbs.  of  Fustic. 


Boil  1 hour. 


DAMASK-DYEING. 


179 


No.  30. 

10  Pieces,  f WORSTED  DAMASKS.— 
MIDDLE  GREEN. 

Dye  with  6 lbs.  of  White  Argol. 

20  lbs.  of  Alum. 

§ pint  of  Chemic. 

25  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

Boil  1 hour. 

Darker  shades  of  Green  must  have  more  Che- 
mic, and  if  a Yellower  shade  is  required,  add  more 
Fustic. 


No.  31. 

10  Pieces , f COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— CINNAMON  BROWN 
AND  WHITE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  40  lbs.  of  Old  Rasped 
Fustic. 

2 lbs.  of  Camwood. 

10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

2 lbs.  of  Red  Argol. 

20  lbs.  of  Alum. 

10  lbs.  of  Madder. 


180 


DAMASK-DYEING. 


No.  82. 

10  Pieces,  } WORSTED  DAMASKS.— 
CINNAMON  BROWN. 

Dye  with  50  lbs.  of  Old  Rasped  Fustic. 

15  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

25  lbs.  of  Alum. 

4 lbs.  of  Red  Argol. 

2J  lbs.  of  Camwood,  or  a handful  of  Cudbear 
may  be  used  in  the  place  of  Camwood,  which  will 
produce  the  same  effect. 

Boil  1J  hour. 

If  a flatter  shade  is  required,  add  a spoonful  of 
Liquid  Extract. 


No.  88. 

15  Pieces,  f COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— LIGHT  FAWN. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

1 quart  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

2 handfuls  of  Madder. 

The  size  of  a Knor  of  Paste  Cudbear. 

1 spoonful  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Boil  1 hour. 


DAMASK-DYEING. 


181 


No.  84. 

15  Pieces,  f WORSTED  DAMASKS.— 
DARKER  FAWN. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

1 quart  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

2 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract. 

4 handfuls  of  Madder. 

1 handful  of  Paste  Cudbear. 

Boil  to  shade. 

If  a darker  shade  is  required,  add  more  Extract. 


No.  35. 

10  Pieces,  f DAMASKS.— LIGHT  SILVER 

DRAB. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 
1 quart  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

1 handful  of  Paste  Cudbear. 

2 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Boil  40  minutes. 


16 


182 


DAMASK-DYEING. 


No.  86. 

10  Pieces , DAMASKS.— DARKER  SILVER 

DRAB. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

1 quart  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

2 handfuls  of  Cudbear. 

1 handful  of  Madder. 

4 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Boil  1 hour. 

If  a darker  shade  is  required,  add  more  Liquid 
Extract,  and  other  ingredients. 


No.  87. 

10  Pieces,  f WORSTED  DAMASKS.— 
MOCK  CRIMSON. 

The  Pieces  must  be  boiled  for  3 hours  in  a clean 
vessel  with  30  lbs.  of  Alum. 

10  lbs.  of  White  Argol  or  Brown  Tartar. 

1 quart  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

After  which,  they  must  be  well  cleaned,  and 
then  they  must  be  finished  in  another  clean  vessel 
with 

25  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

3  gills  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

5 pailfuls  of  Urine. 

Boil  a few  Ends.  Then  clean  and  dry  for  the 
press. 


DAMASK-DYEING. 


183 

This  color  will  very  much  approach  the  Grain 
Crimson,  but  will  not  so  well  bear  exposure  to  the 
atmosphere. 

The  Cotton  and  Worsted  Damasks  are  dyed  the 
same  way,  but  require  less  Acid  in  the  boiling 
and  less  Peachwood  in  the  finishing.  In  dyeing 
this  color,  the  Cotton  is  sometimes  bleached,  which 
tends  to  improve  it  very  much. 

It  must  be  passed  a few  times  through  a weak 
Chloride  of  Lime  Liquor,  with  a little  Nitric  Acid 
in  it.  Sulphuric  Acid  is  too  strong,  and  affects 
the  color  too  much.  The  Pieces  should  next  be 
cleaned,  and  then  blued  up  to  pattern  in  a vessel 
of  warm  water,  with  Urine  according  to  the  shade 
required. 


No.  38. 

10  Pieces , f DAMASK.— SEA  GREEN. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel,  at  boiling  heat,  with  5 lbs. 
of  Fustic. 

1 tot  of  Liquid  Extract. 

20  lbs.  of  Alum. 

5 lbs.  of  White  Argol. 

Boil  1 hour. 

When  the  shade  is  required  darker,  add  more 
Extract,  and  if  Yellower,  add  more  Fustic. 


184 


DAMASK-DYEING. 


No.  30. 

10  Pieces , i DAMASKS.— COFFEE 
BROWN. 

Dye  with  30  lbs.  of  Camwood. 

10  lbs.  of  Red  Argol,  or  20  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 
1 pint  of  Chemic. 

3 pints  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

Boil  2 hours. 

This  shade  of  Color  is  not  often  wanted,  but  as  it 
is  sometimes  called  for,  it  is  here  inserted. 


No.  40. 

10  Pieces , DAMASKS.— BLACK. 

Boil  the  pieces  40  minutes  in  a clean  vessel  with 
2 lbs.  of  Red  Argol. 

1 lb.  of  Chrome. 

Wash  them  and  finish  in  another  vessel  with 
20  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

5 lbs.  of  Old  Fustic. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


MOREEN-DYEING. 


♦ 


No.  1. 

15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— LIGHT  SKY 

BLUE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs.  of  Common 
Crystals. 

3 pints  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

| of  a pint  of  Liquid  Extract. 

2 spoonfuls  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

1 oz.  of  Prussiate  of  Potash. 

Boil  40  minutes. 

No.  2. 

15  Pieces,  f MOREENS.— DARK  SKY 

BLUE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  2 quarts  of  Oil  of  Vi- 
triol. 

20  lbs.  of  Crystals. 

1 tot  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

1 pint  of  Liquid  Extract. 

2 ozs.  of  Prussiate  of  Potash. 

The  Prussiate  will  give  the  color  a bloomy  appear- 
ance, which  is  difficult  to  get  without  it. 

16* 


18G 


MOREEN-DYEING. 


No.  8. 

15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— FULL  ORANGE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  T lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 
8 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

10  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

1 J lb.  of  Cochineal. 

Boil  1 hour. 

When  Yellower  shades  are  wanted,  use  more  Fus- 
tic, and  when  Redder  shades  are  wanted,  use 
more  Cochineal,  with  the  same  quantity  of 
Spirits  and  Tartar. 


No.  4. 

15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— LIGHT  ORANGE. 

* 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  5 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 
G pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

6 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

12  ozs.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

Boil  40  minutes. 


MOREEN-DYEING. 


187 


No.  5. 

15  Pieces , MOREENS. — FULL  GRAIN 
SCARLET. 

Dye  with  6 lbs.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

G lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

10  pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

2J  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

Boil  1 hour. 

This  is  the  real  Grain  Scarlet.  It  can  be  imitated 
with  Lac  Dye,  but  it  is  not  quite  so  bright. 


No.  6. 

15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— GRAIN  SCARLET. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  5 lbs.  of  Dry  Cochi- 
neal. 

5 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

2J  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

8 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  1 hour. 


No.  7. 

15  Pieces,  f MOREENS.— LIGHT  LAC 
SCARLET. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  6 lbs.  of  White  Argol. 
6 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

10  pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

8 lbs.  of  Lac. 


Boil  1 hour. 


188 


MOREEN-DYEING. 


No.  8. 

15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— FULL  LAC 
SCARLET. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  10  lbs.  of  Lac. 

5 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

10  pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

7 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar  or  White  Argol. 

Boil  1 hour. 


No.  9. 

15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— LIGHT  YELLOW. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  5 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 
5 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

5 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  20  minutes. 


No.  10. 

15  Pieces , J MOREENS.— FULL  YELLOW. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  6 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

10  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

8 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 

Darker  shades  of  Yellow  may  be  dyed  by  adding 
more  Fustic,  and  using  the  same  quantity  of  the 
other  ingredients.  If  very  bright  shades  are 
required,  use  more  Nitrate  of  Tin  in  the  dyeing. 


MOREEN-DYEING. 


189 


No.  11. 

15  Pieces , f MOREENS. — STRAW  COLOR. 
Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  5 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 
10  ozs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

1 oz.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

6 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  20  minutes. 

No.  12. 

15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— BUFF. 

Dry  in  a clean  vessel  with  3 ozs.  of  Dry  Cochi- 
neal. 

1J  lb.  of  Young  Fustic. 

6 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

8 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Darker  shades  may  be  dyed  by  adding  more 
Cochineal,  and  the  same  quantity  of  other  in- 
gredients. 


No.  13. 

15  Pieces , J MOREENS.— LIGHT  GRAIN 

CRIMSON. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  4 lbs.  of  Paste  Cochi- 
neal. 

2 lbs.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

2 lbs.  of  Alum. 

4 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

10  pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  40  minutes. 


190 


MOREEN-DYEING. 


No.  14. 

15  Pieces,  f MOREENS.— DARK  GRAIN 

CRIMSON. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  5 lbs.  of  Paste  Cochi- 
neal. 

2J  lbs.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

5 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

3 lbs.  of  Alum. 

6 quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  1 hour. 

When  the  shades  are  not  required  very  blue, 
more  Dry  Cochineal  must  be  used,  and  less 
Paste  Cochineal,  and  if  wanted  bluer,  use  more 
Paste  Cochineal,  and  less  Dry  Cochineal. 


No.  15. 

15  Pieces,  f MOREENS.— COFFEE  BROWN. 

Dye  with  30  lbs.  of  Camwood. 

10  lbs.  of  Red  Argol,  or  20  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 
1 pint  of  Chemic. 

3 pints  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

Boil  2 hours. 

This  shade  of  Color  is  not  often  wanted,  but  as  it 
is  sometimes  called  for,  it  is  here  inserted. 


MOREEN-DYEING. 


191 


No.  16. 

15  Pieces,  f MOREENS. — SEA  GREEN. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel,  at  boiling  heat,  with  5 lbs. 
of  Fustic. 

1 tot  of  Liquid  Extract. 

20  lbs.  of  Alum. 

7 lbs.  of  White  Argol. 

Boil  1 hour. 

When  the  shade  is  required  darker,  add  more  Ex- 
tract, and  if  Yellower,  add  more  Fustic. 

No.  17. 

15  Pieces , f MOREENS. — MOCK  CRIMSON. 

The  Pieces  must  be  boiled  for  3 hours  in  a clean 
vessel  with  30  lbs.  of  Alum. 

10  lbs.  of  White  Argol  or  Brown  Tartar. 

1 quart  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

After  which,  they  must  be  well  cleaned,  and  then 
they  must  be  finished  in  another  clean  vessel 
with 

25  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

3 gills  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

5 pailfuls  of  Urine. 

Boil  a few  Ends.  Then  clean  and  dry  for  the 
press. 

This  color  will  very  much  approach  the  Grain 
Crimson,  but  will  not  so  well  bear  exposure  to 
the  atmosphere. 


102 


MOREEN-DYEING. 


No.  18. 

15  Pieces,  £ MOREENS.— BLACK. 

Boil  the  pieces  40  minutes  in  a clean  vessel  with 
2 lbs.  of  Red  Argol. 

1 lb.  of  Chrome. 

Wash  them  and  finish  in  another  vessel  with 
20  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

5 lbs.  of  Old  Fustic. 

- Boil  half  an  hour. 


No.  19. 

15  Pieces , £ MOREENS.— LIGHT  SILVER 

DRAB. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 
1 quart  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

1 handful  of  Paste  Cudbear. 

2 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Boil  40  minutes. 


MOREEN-DYEING. 


193 


No.  20. 

15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— FULL  SILVER 

DRAB. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

1 quart  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

2 handfuls  of  Paste  Cudbear. 

1 handful  of  Madder. 

4 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Boil  1 hour. 

If  a darker  shade  is  required,  add  more  Liquid 
Extract  to  the  other  ingredients. 


No.  21. 

15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— LIGHT  FAWN. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

1 quart  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

2 handfuls  of  Madder. 

The  size  of  a Knor  of  Paste  Cudbear. 

1 spoonful  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Boil  1 hour. 


17 


194 


MOREEN-DYEING. 


No.  22. 

14  Pieces,  J MOREENS.— DARKER  FAWN. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

1 quart  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

2 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract. 

4 handfuls  of  Madder. 

1 handful  of  Taste  Cudbear. 

Boil  to  shade. 

If  a darker  shade  is  required,  add  more  Ex- 
tract. 


No.  23. 

15  Pieces , } MOREENS.— CINNAMON 

BROWN. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  40  lbs.  of  Old  Rasped 
Fustic. 

-2  lbs.  of  Camwood. 

10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

2 lbs.  of  Red  Argol. 

20  lbs.  of  Alum. 

10  lbs.  of  Madder. 


MOREEN-DYEING. 


195 


No.  24. 

15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— DARKER 
CINNAMON  BROWN. 

Dye  with  50  lbs.  of  Old  Rasped  Fustic. 

15  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

25  lbs.  of  Alum. 

4 lbs.  of  Red  Argol. 

2J  lbs.  of  Camwood,  or  a handful  of  Cudbear  may 
be  used  in  the  place  of  Camwood,  which  will 
produce  the  same  effect. 

Boil  1J  hour. 

If  a flatter  shade  is  required,  add  a spoonful  of 
Liquid  Extract. 


No.  25. 

15  Pieces,  | MOREENS.— MIDDLE  GREEN. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  8 lbs.  of  White  Argol. 
15  lbs.  of  Alum. 

1 gill  of  Chemic. 

20  lbs.  of  Fustic. 


Boil  1 hour. 


'it 


196  MOREEN-DYEING. 

1 No.  26. 

15  Pieces,  f MOREENS. — DARK  GREEN. 
Dye  with  8 lbs.  of  White  Argol. 

20  lbs.  of  Alum. 

1 pint  of  Chemic. 

25  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

Boil  1 hour. 

Darker  shades  of  Green  must  have  more  Chemic, 
and  if  a Yellower  shade  is  required,  add  more 
Fustic. 

No.  27. 

15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— LIGHT  GREEN. 
Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  15  lbs.  of  Alum. 

8 lbs.  of  White  Argol. 

15  lbs.  of  Chipped  Fustic. 

1 tot  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Boil  1 hour. 


No.  28. 

15  Pieces,  f MOREENS.— DARKER  GREEN. 

Dye  with  20  lbs.  of  Alum. 

20  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

8 lbs.  of  White  Argol. 

2 tots  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Boil  1 hour. 

If  the  shade  is  required  Bluer,  add  a little  more 
Extract,  and  if  Yellowrer,  a little  more  Fustic. 


MOREEN-DYEING. 


197 


No.  29. 

15  Pieces , f MOREENS. — LIGHT  SAXON 

BLUE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs.  of  Crystals. 

2 quarts  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

2 ozs.  of  Prussiate. 

1 tot  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

1 pint  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Boil  1 hour. 


No.  30. 

15  Pieces , J MOREENS.— DARK  SAXON 

BLUE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs.  of  Crystals. 

2 quarts  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

4 ozs.  of  Prussiate. 

1 tot  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

3 gills  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Boil  1 hour. 

If  darker  shades  are  required,  add  more  Liquid 
Extract. 


17* 


198 


MOREEN-DYEING. 


No.  31. 

15  Pieces, , f MOREENS.— LIGHT  RED 
CRIMSON. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  witli  2 lbs.  of  Alum. 

4 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

1J  lb.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

4 quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  40  minutes. 


No.  32. 

15  Pieces,  } MOREENS.— FULL  RED 
CRIMSON. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  4 lbs.  of  Alum. 

6 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

2J  lbs.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

10  pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  1 hour. 


No.  33. 

15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— LIGHT  ROSE 

COLOR. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  1 lb.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 
4 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

2 lbs.  of  Alum. 

6 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  40  minutes. 


MOREEN-DYEING. 


199 


No.  34. 

15  Pieces,  } MOREENS.— FULL  ROSE 

COLOR. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  1J  lb.  of  Dry  Cochi- 
neal. 

5 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

4 quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

2 lbs.  of  Alum. 

Boil  1 hour. 

If  bluer  shades  are  required,  let  one-half  of  the 
Cochineal  be  Paste,  and  the  other  half  Dry,  and 
rather  less  Spirits. 


No.  35. 

15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— LIGHT  SALMON. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  4 ozs.  of  Dry  Cochi- 
neal. 

5 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

5 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  50  minutes. 


200 


MOREEN-DYEING. 


No.  36. 

15  Pieces,  f MOREENS.— FULL  SALMON. 
Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  8 ozs.  of  Dry  Cochi- 
neal. 

10  pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

6 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

Boil  1 hour. 

If  a Yellower  shade  is  required,  add  4 ozs.  of 
Ground  Fustic. 


No.  37. 

15  Pieces , } MOREENS.— LIGHT  PINK. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  10  ozs.  of  Paste  Cochi- 
neal. 

5 lbs.  of  Alum. 

2 lbs.  of  White  Tartar. 

4 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  40  minutes. 

No.  38. 

15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— FULL  PINK. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  1 \ lb.  of  Paste  Cochineal. 
4 lbs.  of  Alum. 

4 lbs.  of  White  Tartar. 

6 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  1 hour. 

Lighter  or  darker  shades  may  be  dyed  by  add- 
ing more  or  less  Paste  Cochineal  with  the  same 
quantity  of  Acid. 


TWO  COLORED  DAMASK- 
DYEING. 


No.  1. 

10  Pieces,  f COTTON  AND  WORSTED  DA- 
MASKS.—SCARLET  AND  PINK. 

In  this  color,  the  worsted  must  be  first  dyed 
Scarlet  in  a clean  vessel  with  12  lbs.  of  Lac 
Dye. 

12  quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

10  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

8 lbs.  of  White  Argol  or  Brown  Tartar. 

Boil  1 hour. 

The  Pieces  must  then  be  well  cleaned,  and  then 
Cotton  dyed  with  Safflower.  A light  shade  of 
Pink  will  take  1 lb.  of  Safflower  to  a Piece,  and  a 
dark  shade  lj-  lb.  It  must  be  spent  according 
to  Receipt  68,  page  88.  The  clear  Liquor  must 
be  put  into  a cistern  of  cold  water,  with  about  1 
pint  of  Oil  of  Vitriol,  and  1 lb.  of  Tartaric  Acid. 
The  goods  must  then  be  entered  and  turned  on  in 
the  Liquor  until  dyed  to  shade  required. 


202 


DAMASK-DYEING. 


If  a Blue  shade  of  Pink  is  required,  rather  less 
Oil  of  Vitriol  must  be  used,  and  if  a Redder  shade, 
more  must  be  used.  Any  shade  of  Pink  may  be 
dyed  by  adding  more  or  less  of  the  clear  Safflower 
Liquor. 

Various  shades  of  Pink  may  be  dyed  from 
Peachwood,  but  none  are  equal  to  the  Pink  dyed 
with  Safflower,  when  Scarlet  and  Pink  are  in  the 
Piece  together. 


No.  2. 

10  Pieces,  | COTTON  AND  WORSTED  DA- 
MASKS.—SCARLET  AND  YELLOW. 

The  Pieces  in  these  two  colors  must  be  first 
dyed  Scarlet,  the  same  as  in  the  last  color,  with 
the  same  quantity  of  ingredients,  and  then  washed 
and  Cotton  dyed  either  through  the  Padding-Ma- 
chine or  in  a cistern  of  cold  or  lukewarm  water, 
with  about  1 lb.  of  Turmeric  to  the  Piece,  more  or 
less,  according  to  shade  of  Yellow  required. 

The  Turmeric  must  be  boiled  up  with  a little 

011  of  Vitriol;  use  about  1 lb.  of  Turmeric  to  1 
gallon  of  water,  and  take  the  clear  Liquor  only. 


DAMASK-DYEING. 


203 


No.  3. 

10  Pieces , | COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— SCARLET  AND 
FLESH  COLOR. 

Worsted  Dye  in  Scarlet  same  as  No.  1,  and 
Cotton  Dye  either  at  the  Padding-Machine,  or  in 
a clean  vessel  with  2 ozs.  of  Annotta,  spent  with 
2 quarts  of  Water  and  2 ozs.  of  Pearlash ; boil 
well  for  a few  minutes,  so  that  every  particle  be 
dissolved.  Take  the  clear  Liquor. 

A great  variety  of  shades  of  cotton  may  be 
dyed  by  varying  the  quantity  of  Annotta,  accord- 
ing to  shade,  using  more  for  dark  and  less  for 
light  shades. 


No.  4. 

10  Pieces , | COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— SCARLET  AND 
SALMON. 

First  Worsted  Dye  in  all  respects  for  Scarlet 
same  as  No.  1,  and  Cotton  Dye  in  a clean  cistern 
of  cold  water  with  5 lbs.  of  spent  Safflower,  and 
1 lb.  of  Annotta  spent  with  1 lb.  of  Pearlash. 
Use  the  clear  Liquor  only.  Give  10  Ends  and 
wash  off. 


201 


DAMASK-DYEING. 


No.  5. 

10  Pieces , DAMASKS.— SCARLET  AND 
ROSE  COLOR. 

First  Worsted  Dye  Scarlet  same  as  No.  1,  and 
Cotton  Dye  with  8 ozs.  of  Annotta  spent  with  8 
ozs.  of  Pearlash,  and  the  clear  liquor  from  6 lbs. 
of  Safflower.  Give  10  Ends,  and  wash  off  in  an- 
other cistern  of  cold  water  with  1 pint  of  Oil  of 
Vitriol  in  it.  The  Oil  will  raise  both  the  Safflower 
and  the  Annotta. 

This  is,  perhaps,  one  of  the  finest  colors  that 
can  be  dyed,  more  especially  in  a two  colored  Da- 
mask, possessing  great  brightness  and  beauty. 


No.  6. 

10  Pieces,  | DAMASKS.— LIGHT  GREEN 

AND  PINK. 

First  Worsted  Dye  Green  in  a clean  vessel  with 
8 lbs.  of  White  Argol. 

20  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

20  lbs.  of  Alum. 

1 gill  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Boil  1 hour. 

Clean  and  Cotton  Dye  in  all  respects  the  same 
as  No.  1,  with  Safflower. 


DAMASK-DYEING. 


205 


No.  T. 

10  Pieces,  | COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— MIDDLE  GREEN 
AND  PINK. 

First  Worsted  Dye  with  20  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

10  lbs.  of  Red  Argol. 

20  lbs.  of  Alum. 

1 pint  of  Chemic. 

Boil  1 hour. 

If  darker  shades  of  Green  are  wanted,  add 
more  Chemic  according  to  shade. 

Cotton  Dye  same  as  No.  1,  with  Safflower. 

No.  8. 

10  Pieces , f COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— GREEN  AND 
YELLOW. 

This  must  be  first  Worsted  Dyed  according  to 
shade,  and  then  washed  and  Cotton  Dyed  the 
same  as  No.  2,  with  Turmeric. 


No.  9. 

10  Pieces , f COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— GREEN  AND  SALMON. 

Worsted  Dye  to  the  shade  of  Green  in  the 
same  way  as  No.  T,  using  more  or  less  Extract 

18  * 


206 


DAMASK-DYEING. 


according  to  shade  required,  and  Cotton  Dye  in 
all  respects  same  as  No.  4. 


No.  10. 

10  Pieces , f COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— SAXON  BLUE  AND 
ROSE  COLOR. 

First  Worsted  Dye  Saxon  Blue  in  a clean  vessel 
with 

20  lbs.  of  Crystals. 

2 quarts  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

2 ozs.  of  Prussiate  of  Potash. 

1 tot  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

1 pint  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Wash  and  Cotton  Dye  in  all  respects  the  same  as 
No.  5,  with  Safflower  and  Annotta. 

A great  variety  of  shades  may  be  dyed  in  these 
two  colors  by  dyeing  different  shades  of  Blue  and 
varying  the  coloring  of  the  Cotton  as  well. 

No.  11. 

10  Pieces , f COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— SKY  BLUE  AND  PINK. 

Worsted  dye  first  in  a clean  vessel  with 
20  lbs.  of  Crystals. 

3 pints  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

2 ozs.  of  Prussiate. 

2 spoonfuls  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  40  minutes. 


DAMASK-DYEING. 


207 


Wash  and  Cotton  Dye  with  Safflower  according 
to  shade  required,  the  same  as  No.  1. 


No.  12. 

10  Pieces , f COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASK.— SKY  BLUE  AND 
PINK,  ANOTHER  WAY. 

Worsted  dye  in  all  respects  the  same  as  No.  10. 

And  Cotton  Dye  by  first  sumaching  the  pieces 
with  2 lbs.  of  Sumach  to  the  piece,  run  the  pieces 
in  the  Sumach  in  the  troughs  6 ends,  then  give 
6 ends  in  Muriate  of  Tin,  at  4°  Twaddell,  in  an- 
other trough,  then  wash  and  dye  with  Peachwood 
Liquor  according  to  shade,  either  in  the  troughs, 
or  at  the  padding-machine,  or  in  a cistern  of  cold 
water.  A good  full  Pink  will  require  about  1J 
lb.  of  Peachwood  to  a piece.  Lighter  or  darker 
shades  may  be  dyed  by  adding  more  or  less  Peach- 
wood according  to  the  shade. 


No.  13. 

10  Pieces , f COTTON  AND  WORSTED  DA- 
MASKS.—BLUES  AND  CRIMSONS 
OF  DIFFERENT  SORTS. 

Dye  the  worsted  first  a good  Sky  or  Saxon 
Blue ; or  Royal  Blue,  if  a very  dark  and  bright 
blue  is  required,  wash  well  and  cotton  dye  same 
as  No.  10,  only  use  more  Peachwood  Liquor. 


208 


DAMASK-DYEING. 


When  a very  full  shade  of  Crimson  is  required, 
the  Pieces  should  be  sumached  as  before,  and 
then  passed  through  Nitrate  of  Iron,  a few  ends, 
in  another  trough  or  cistern  ; use  about  2 quarts 
of  Nitrate  of  Iron  for  the  10  Pieces.  Then  run 
in  the  Peachwood  Liquor  after  running  them  8 
Ends,  take  up,  and  add  2 quarts  of  good  Muriate 
of  Tin  to  raise  the  Peachwood  and  brighten  the 
color.  By  this  mode,  the  fullest  shades  of  Crim- 
son may  be  dyed.  It  is  the  Nitrate  of  Iron  that 
gives  it  the  more  fulness,  and  causes  it  to  be 
darker  with  the  same  quantity  of  Peachwood. 


No.  14. 

10  Pieces , | COTTON  AND  WORSTED  DA- 
MASKS.—GREEN  AND  CRIMSONS. 

First  dye  Green,  according  to  shade,  same  as 
No.  7,  and  Cotton  Dye  in  all  respects  the  same  as 
No.  12. 

The  shade  of  color  may  be  varied  by  dyeing 
the  Worsted  lighter  or  darker,  and  the  same  with 
respect  to  the  Cotton. 

It  is  impossible  to  give  an  estimate  of  the  va- 
rious shades  produced  by  this  variation. 


DAMASK-DYEING. 


209 


No.  15. 

10  Pieces , | COTTON  AND  WORSTED  DA- 
MASKS.—DARK  BLUE  AND  ORANGE. 

Worsted  Dye  first  in  a clean  vessel  with 

1 quart  of  good  Chemic. 

20  lbs.  of  Crystals. 

2 quarts  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

Boil  1 hour,  wash,  and  Cotton  Dye  by  first 
Sumaching  the  Pieces,  and  Spiriting  them  the 
same  as  No.  11. 

Then  dye  the  Cotton  with  3 lbs.  of  Peachwood, 
and 

2 lbs.  of  Quercitron  Bark  to  the  Piece. 

This  will  very  much  imitate  the  Royal  Blue 
and  Orange,  but  will  not  be  so  bright  a color. 

No.  16. 

10  Pieces,  f WORSTED  AND  COTTON 
DAMASKS.— DARK  BLUE 
AND  LIGHT  ORANGE. 

ANOTHER  METHOD. 

First  Worsted  Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with 
*20  lbs.  of  Crystals. 

2 quarts  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

1 quart  of  Chemic. 

2 lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

Wash  well,  and  Cotton  Dye  with  strong  An- 
notta  Liquor  previously  spent  with  Pearlash. 

18* 


210 


DAMASK-DYEING. 


The  Annotta  Orange  will  affect  the  Worsted 
more  than  the  Peachwood  Orange.  It  will  tend 
to  flatten  it,  and  the  reason  that  the  Cudbear  is 
given  in  Worsted  Dyeing  is  that  it  may  keep  up 
the  bloomy  appearance. 

Various  shades  may  be  dyed  upon  Cotton  from 
Annotta,  varying  from  a Light  Straw  color  to  a 
Full  Orange;  when  the  color  is  wanted  very  full, 
the  Pieces  should  be  passed  through  a weak  de- 
coction of  Oil  of  Vitriol,  after  being  run  in  the 
Annotta. 


No.  IT. 

10  Pieces , f COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— RUBY  AND  BLUE. 

First  Worsted  Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  10 
lbs.  of  Cudbear.  Boil  20  minutes. 

Clean  and  Cotton  Dye  by  running  the  Pieces 
in  the  Copperas  Vat,  one,  two,  or  three  ends,  ac- 
cording to  the  shade  of  Blue  required ; then  run 
the  Pieces  in  a weak  decoction  of  Oil  of  Vitriol,, 
at  about  100°  Fahrenheit,  to  clear  the  Worsted 
and  brighten  the  Cotton. 


DAMASK-DYEING.  211 

No.  18. 

10  Pieces,  f COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— YELLOW  AND  BLUE. 

First  Cotton  Dye  in  the  Copperas  Yat,  clean 
well,  and  then  Worsted  Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with 
10  pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

10  lbs.  of  Quercitron  Bark. 

6 lbs.  of  White  Argol. 

4 lbs.  of  Alum. 

Boil  20  minutes. 


No.  19. 

10  Pieces , £ COTTON  AND  WORSTED  DA- 
MASKS.—ORANGE  AND  BLUE. 

Cotton  dye  Blue  first,  in  the  Copperas  Yat,  ac- 
cording to  the  shade  required.  Then  wash,  and 
Worsted  dye  in  a clean  vessel  with 
6 lbs.  of  White  Argol. 

1J  lb.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

10  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

10  pints  of  Spirits. 

Boil  40  minutes. 


/ 


212 


DAMASK-DYEING. 


No.  20. 

10  Pieces , f COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— SCARLET  AND 
COMMON  BLUE. 

First  Worsted  dye  a good  Scarlet,  same  as  No. 
1,  and  Cotton  dye  by  passing  a few  ends  through 
the  Copperas  Yat,  and  then  clear  in  a vessel  of 
warm  water  with  1 gill  of  Oil  of  Vitriol  in  it. 

This  color  is  not  so  bright  as  the  Scarlet  and 
Royal  Blue,  or  what  is  called  Coffee  and  Blue. 

I shall  next  insert  two  methods  of  dyeing  Cof- 
fee and  Royal  Blue,  for  the  information  of  those 
who  have  so  often  had  these  colors  so  uneven  and 
dead,  from  a want  of  a proper  method  of  dyeing 
them. 


No.  21. 

10  Pieces , f COTTON  & WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— COFFEE  & ROYAL  BLUE. 

The  Worsted  must  be  first  dyed  a good  bright 
Scarlet,  the  same  in  every  respect  as  No.  1. 
Then  Cotton  dye  by  passing  through  strong  Ni- 
trate of  Iron  in  the  troughs,  at  4°  Twaddell,  and 
to  which  add  2 lbs.  of  Tin  Crystals.  In  this 
turn  4 ends,  and  in  another  trough,  with  2 quarts 
of  Ammonia,  pass  through  this  out  of  the  Iron, 
and  repeat  in  each  trough  two  or  three  times, 


DAMASK-DYEING. 


213 


until  a Buff  appearance  is  seen;  then  wash  well. 
In  another  trough,  or  at  the  Padding-Machine, 
add  10  lbs.  of  Prussiate  of  Potash,  previously  dis- 
solved; in  this  give  6 ends,  and  then  add  1 pint 
of  Oil  of  Vitriol,  and  give  the  Pieces  G ends  more. 
Wash  off  for  the  Drying-Machine. 

Then  you  have  a good  full  Royal  Blue  upon 
the  Cotton.  This  will  produce  a good  bright  co- 
lor, and  if  a lighter  shade  is  required  give  less 
Prussiate. 

Another  mode  of  dyeing  the  Blue  is  by  dyeing 
it  after  Buffing  it,  the  same  as  dyeing  Royal 
Blue  with  Blue  Spirits  and  Prussiate.  But  the 
brightest  is  by  first  running  the  Pieces  in  Su- 
mach, about  2 lbs.  to  the  Piece,  and  a little  Log- 
wood with  it,  and  then  going  through  all  the  pro- 
cess, as  stated  in  the  first  mode. 

In  this  latter  method,  the  Cotton  gets  a quan- 
tity of  Logwood  upon  it  which  is  risen  to  a sort  of 
Claret  when  it  enters  the  Nitrate  of  Iron  and  the 
Crystals  of  Tin,  the  Iron  working  up  the  dark- 
ness of  the  Logwood,  and  the  Crystals  of  Tin 
producing  the  bloom.  It  is  by  this  means  that 
this  is  so  much  brighter  and  more  bloomy  than 
the  other  with  the  same  quantity  of  Prussiate. 

I think  I have  given  as  many  shades  in  single 
and  two  colored  Damasks  as  are  generally  dyed, 
and  from  these  any  dyer  may,  by  varying  the 
quantities,  obtain  a great  variety  more. 


CAMLET-DYEING. 


— ♦ — 

TIIE  FOLLOWING  PIECES  ARE  ALL  FOUR- 
QUARTERS. 

1 

No.  1. 

10  Pieces , LONG  CAMLETS.— SCARLET. 

Dye  at  boiling  beat  in  a clean  vessel  with  20 
lbs.  of  Lac. 

10  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

15  lbs.  of  Brown  or  White  Tartar. 

15  quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  1J  hour,  after  which  they  must  be  well 
cleaned. 


No.  2. 

10  Pieces , LONG  CAMLETS.— LIGHT 
ORANGE. 

Dye  at  boiling  heat  in  a clean  vessel  with 
15  lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

15  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

15  quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

4 ozs.  of  Cochineal. 

Boil  1 hour,  after  which,  clean  well  and  dry  off. 


CAMLET-DYEING. 


215 


No.  3. 

10  Pieces , LONG  CAMLETS.— FULL 
ORANGE. 

Dye  at  boiling  heat  in  a clean  vessel  with 
15  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

15  lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar  or  White  Argol. 

1 lb.  of  Cochineal. 

15  quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  1 hour,  after  which,  clean  and  dry  oft*. 

No.  4. 

10  Pieces,  CAMLETS.— LIGHT  YELLOW. 

Dye,  at  boiling  heat,  with  10  lbs.  of  Quercitron 
Bark. 

10  quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

12  lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

Boil  1 hour,  and  then  clean  and  dry  off'. 


No.  5. 

10  Pieces , CAMLETS.— FULL  YELLOW. 

Dye  at  boiling  heat  in  a clean  vessel  with 
20  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

15  quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

15  lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

Boil  1 hour,  and  then  clean  and  dry  off. 


210 


CAMLET-DYEING. 


No.  6. 

10  Pieces,  CAMLETS.— GRAIN  CRIMSON. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  5 lbs.  of  Paste  Cochi- 
neal. 

10  lbs.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

15  lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

15  quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  1 hour,  and  then  wash  off. 

If  fuller  shades  are  wanted,  add  more  Cochi- 
neal; if  Bluer  shades  are  required,  add  more 
Paste  Cochineal : and  the  same  quantity  of  other 
ingredients. 


No.  T. 

10  Pieces , CAMLETS.— ASH  DRAB. 

Dye  at  boiling  heat  in  a clean  vessel  with 
20  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

2 quarts  of  Sulphuric  Acid. 

1 lb.  of  Mull  Madder. 

1 lb.  of  Paste  Cudbear. 

J of  a gill  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Boil  1 hour,  and  then  clean  and  wash  off. 

Lighter  or  darker  shades  may  be  dyed  by  add- 
ing more  or  less  Extract ; when  a Redder  shade  is 
required,  add  a little  more  Paste  Cudbear. 


CAMLET-DYEING. 


217 


No.  8. 

10  Pieces,  CAMLETS.— SILVER  DRAB. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs.  of  Super  Ar- 
gol. 

2 quarts  of  Sulphuric  Acid. 

J lb.  of  Paste  Cudbear. 

1 tot  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Boil  1 hour,  and  then  wash  off. 


No.  9. 

10  Pieces , LONG  CAMLETS.— FAWN 

DRAB. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs.  of  Super  Ar- 
gol. 

2 quarts  of  Sulphuric  Acid. 

8 ozs.  of  Paste  Cudbear. 

6 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract. 

2 lbs.  of  Mull  Madder. 

Boil  1 hour. 

If  darker  shades  are  required,  add  more  Liquid 
Extract. 


19 


218 


CAMLET-DYEING. 


No.  10. 

10  Pieces , LONG  CAMLETS.— SAXON 

BLUE. 

Dye  at  boiling  beat  in  a clean  vessel  with 
20  lbs.  of  Crystals. 

2 quarts  of  Sulphuric  Acid. 

3 gills  of  Liquid  Extract. 

4 ozs.  of  Prussiate  of  Potash. 

1 tot  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  1 hour,  and  then  clean  and  dry  off. 

No.  11. 

10  Pieces , CAMLETS.— MAROON. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  at  boiling  heat  with 
20  lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

10  lbs.  of  Camwood. 

1 gill  of  Sulphuric  Acid. 

Boil  1 hour. 

For  fuller  and  Redder  shades  add  more  Cam- 
wood and  a little  more  Sulphuric  Acid. 

This  color  might  be  dyed  by  first  being  boiled 
and  finished  in  the  same  way  as  Mock  Maroon,  or 
Mock  Crimson,  but  is  not  so  permanent  as  by 
this  Receipt. 


CAMLET-DYEING. 


219 


No.  12. 

10  Pieces,  CAMLETS.— LIGHT  BROWN.  * 

Dye  at  boiling  beat  with  40  lbs.  of  Camwood. 

1 pint  of  Chemic. 

10  lbs.  of  Turmeric. 

3 pints  of  Sulphuric  Acid. 

20  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

Boil  2 hours. 


No.  13. 

10  Pieces , CAMLETS.— DARK  BROWN. 

Dye  with  60  lbs.  of  Camwood. 

3 pints  of  Chemic. 

20  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

3 pints  of  Sulphuric  Acid. 

10  lbs.  of  Turmeric. 

Boil  2 hours. 

Less  Camwood  will  dye  the  same  shade  when 
the  vessel  is  seasoned,  by  dyeing  a similar  color 
before  it.  Camwood  requires  to  be  well  boiled  to 
get  the  strength  out  of  it,  and  also  requires  a 
strong  Acid. 


220 


CAMLET-DYEING. 


No.  14. 

10  Pieces , GAMLETS.— CLARET  BROWN. 

First  boil  40  minutes  in  a clean  vessel  with 
2 lbs.  of  Chrome. 

Then  wash  and  finish  in  another  vessel  with 
8 ozs.  of  Alum. 

8 ozs.  of  Logwood. 

20  lbs.  Fustic. 

30  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

Boil  1 hour  in  the  finishing,  then  clean  and  dry 
off. 

Lighter  or  darker  shades  may  be  dyed  by  add- 
ing or  diminishing  the  quantity  of  Logwood,  ac- 
cording to  the  shade  required.  A very  small  quan- 
tity of  Logwood  will  make  a great  difference  in 
the  shade.  By  adding  1 oz.  more  to  each  Piece, 
it  will  be  much  darker. 

The  same  shade  of  color  may  be  dyed  with 
Camwood,  Chemic,  and  Acid,  but  it  is  more  ex- 
pensive, and  sometimes  the  fabric  is  made  tender 
by  this  process. 


CAMLET-DYEING. 


221 


No.  15. 

10  Pieces , LONG  CAMLETS.— LIGHT 
PURPLE. 

Boil  3 hours  in  a clean  vessel  with  50  lbs.  of 

Alum. 

10  lbs.  of  Red  Argol. 

10  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Wash  well,  and  finish  in  a clean  vessel  with 
10  lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

5 quarts  of  Ammonia. 

Clean  and  dry  off. 


No.  16. 

10  Pieces,  LONG  CAMLETS.— MIDDLE 

PURPLE. 

Boil  3 hours  in  a clean  vessel  with  50  lbs.  of  Alum. 
10  lbs.  of  Argol. 

20  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Clean  well,  and  finish  in  a clean  vessel  with 
10  lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

6 quarts  of  Ammonia. 

If  a bluer  shade  of  Purple  is  required,  add 
more  Ammonia  in  the  finishing,  and  when  a Red 
shade  is  required,  add  no  Ammonia  in  the  finish- 
ing. 


19* 


222 


CAMLET-DYEING. 


No.  17. 

10  Pieces , LONG  CAMLETS.— DARK 
PURPLE. 

This  color  is  dyed  in  all  respects  the  same  as 
the  last,  but  must  have  more  Logwood  in  the  boil- 
ing, and  a little  more  Ammonia  in  the  finishing,  in 
order  to  raise  the  Logwood. 

No.  18. 

10  Pieces,  CAMLETS.— ANOTHER  MODE 
OF  DYEING  PURPLES. 

Boil  40  minutes  with  2 lbs.  of  Chrome  in  a 
clean  vessel ; then  wash  well,  and  finish  in  another 
vessel  of  clean  water  with  10  lbs.  of  Cudbear  and 
10  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Clean  and  dry  off. 

Any  shade  of  Purple  may  be  dyed  in  this  man- 
ner, using  more  Logwood  for  darker,  and  less  for 
lighter  shades. 


No.  19. 

10  Pieces,  LONG  CAMLETS.— BLUE 
BLACK. 

Boil  40  minutes  in  a clean  vessel  with 
2 lbs.  of  Chrome. 

2 lbs.  of  Argol. 

Finish  in  another  vessel  with  40  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Boil  40  minutes. 


CAMLET-DYEING. 


228 


No.  20. 

10  Pieces , LONG  CAMLETS.— FULL 
BLACK. 

Boil  40  minutes  in  a clean  vessel  with 
2 lbs.  of  Chrome. 

2 lbs.  of  Argol. 

Finish  in  another  vessel  with 
50  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

10  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

If  not  dark  enough,  add  a few  pounds  more 
Logwood. 


No.  21. 

10  Pieces , LONG  CAMLETS.— ROYAL 

BLUE. 

In  a clean  vessel  of  water  add 
15  lbs.  of  Prussiate  of  Potash. 

15  quarts  of  Royal  Blue  Spirits. 

Heat  up  to  100°,  enter  the  Pieces,  and  turn 
them  half  an  hour;  take  them  on  to  the  wench, 
and  heat  the  Liquor  up  to  140°,  and  put  the 
Pieces  into  the  Liquor  again,  and  turn  them  half 
an  hour  more.  Again  take  them  to  the  wench, 
then  heat  the  liquor  up  to  180°,  and  add  2 quarts 
of  Finishing  Spirits.  Put  the  Pieces  down  again, 


224 


CAMLET-DYEING. 


and  turn  half  an  hour  more.  After  which,  take 
them  out  of  the  vessel,  cool  them  over,  heat  the 
Liquor  up  to  the  boiling  point,  and  add  3 quarts 
of  Finishing  Spirits;  enter  the  Pieces  again,  boil 
half  an  hour,  and  then  take  out. 

The  Pieces  will  then  be  a good  Light  Royal 
Blue. 

If  a darker  shade  is  required,  add  2 quarts 
more  Finishing  Spirits,  and  1,  2,  or  3 lbs.,  or 
more  or  less,  Logwood,  according  to  the  shade  of 
darkness  required ; enter  the  Pieces  again,  and 
boil  them  half  an  hour  more.  Then  take  them 
out,  cool  them  over,  and  clean  off  for  the  drying- 
machine. 

The  Logwood  will  produce  a bloomy  appear- 
ance, and  make  the  color  darker. 


No.  22. 

10  Pieces , LONG  CAMLETS.— GREEN. 

Dye  in  a clenn  vessel  with  40  lbs.  of  Alum. 

15  lbs.  of  White  Argol. 

40  lbs.  of  Chipped  Fustic. 

1 pint  of  Chemic. 

Boil  1J  hour. 


CAMLET-DYEING. 


225 


No.  28. 

10  Pieces,  LONG  CAMLETS.— BOTTLE 

GEEEN. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  40  lbs.  of  Alum. 

15  lbs.  of  White  Argol. 

50  lbs.  of  Old  Fustic. 

2 or  3 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

3 quarts  of  Chemic. 

Boil  1J  hour. 


LASTING-DYEING. 


— • — 

JgggP  THE  FOLLOWING  PIECES  ARE  ALL  THREE- 

QUARTERS. 

No.  1. 

20  Pieces , LASTINGS.— LIGHT  YELLOW. 

Dye,  at  boiling  heat,  with  10  lbs.  of  Quercitron 
Bark. 

10  quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

12  lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

Boil  1 hour,  and  then  clean  and  dry  off. 


No.  2. 

20  Pieces,  LASTINGS.— FULL  YELLOW. 

Dye  at  boiling  heat  in  a clean  vessel  with 
20  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic.  * 

15  quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

15  lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

Boil  1 hour,  and  then  clean  and  dry  off. 


LASTING-DYEING. 


227 


No.  3. 

20  Pieces , LASTINGS.— SILVER  DRAB. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 
2 quarts  of  Sulphuric  Acid. 

\ lb.  of  Paste  Cudbear. 

1 tot  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Boil  1 hour,  and  then  wash  off. 


No.  4. 

20  Pieces,  LASTINGS. — ASH  DRAB. 

Dye  at  boiling  heat  in  a clean  vessel  with 
20  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

2 quarts  of  Sulphuric  Acid. 

1 lb.  of  Mull  Madder. 

1 lb.  of  Paste  Cudbear, 
f of  a gill  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Boil  1 hour,  and  then  clean  and  wash  off. 

Lighter  or  darker  shades  may  be  dyed  by  add- 
ing more  or  less  Extract ; when  a Redder  shade 
is  required,  add  a little  more  Paste  Cudbear. 


228 


LASTING-DYEING. 


No.  5. 

20  Pieces,  LASTINGS.— FAWN  DRAB. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 
2 quarts  of  Sulphuric  Acid. 

8 ozs.  of  Paste  Cudbear. 

6 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract. 

2  lbs.  of  Mull  Madder. 

Boil  1 hour. 

If  darker  shades  are  required,  add  more  Liquid 
Extract. 


No.  6. 

20  Pieces , LASTINGS.— SAXON  BLUE. 

Dye  at  boiling  heat  in  a clean  vessel  with 
20  lbs.  of  Crystals. 

2 quarts  of  Sulphuric  Acid. 

3 gills  of  Liquid  Extract. 

4 ozs.  of  Prussiate  of  Potash. 

1 tot  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  one  hour,  and  then  clean  and  dry  off. 


LASTING-DYEING. 


229 


No.  T. 

20  Pieces , LASTINGS. — GRAIN  CRIMSON. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  5 lbs.  of  Paste  Cochi- 
neal. 

10  lbs.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

15  lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

15  quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  1 hour,  and  then  wash  off. 

If  fuller  shades  are  wanted,  add  more  Cochi- 
neal; if  Bluer  shades  are  required,  add  more 
Paste  Cochineal : and  the  same  quantity  of  other 
ingredients. 


No.  8. 

20  Pieces , BASTINGS.— SCARLET. 

Dye  at  boiling  heat  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs. 
of  Lac. 

10  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

15  lbs.  of  Brown  or  White  Tartar. 

15  quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  1J  hour,  after  which  they  must  be  well 
cleaned. 


20 


230 


LASTING-DYEING. 


No.  9. 

20  Pieces , BASTINGS.— LIGHT  ORANGE. 

Dye  at  boiling  heat  in  a clean  vessel  with 
15  lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar. 

15  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

15  quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

4 ozs.  of  Cochineal. 

Boil  1 hour,  after  which  clean  well  and  dry  off. 


No.  10. 

20  Pieces , BASTINGS.— FULL  ORANGE. 

Dye  at  boiling  heat  in  a clean  vessel  with 
15  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

15  lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar  or  White  Argol. 

1 lb.  of  Cochineal. 

15  quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

Boil  1 hour,  after  which  clean  and  dry  off. 

No.  11. 

20  Pieces , BASTINGS.— MAROON. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  at  boiling  heat  with 
20  lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

10  lbs.  of  Camwood. 

1 gill  of  Sulphuric  Acid. 

Boil  1 hour. 

For  fuller  and  Redder  shades  add  more  Camwood 
and  a little  more  Sulphuric  Acid. 

This  color  might  be  dyed  by  first  being  boiled 


LASTING- DYEING. 


231 


and  finished  in  the  same  way  as  Mock  Maroon,  or 
Mock  Crimson,  but  is  not  so  permanent  as  by  this 
Receipt. 


No.  12. 

20  Pieces , LASTINGS.— LIGHT  BROWN. 

Dye  at  boiling  heat  with  40  lbs.  of  Camwood. 

1  pint  of  Chemic. 

10  lbs.  of  Turmeric. 

3 pints  of  Sulphuric  Acid. 

20  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

Boil  2 hours. 


No.  13. 

20  Pieces , BASTINGS.— GREEN. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  40  lbs.  of  Alum. 
15  lbs.  of  White  Argol. 

40  lbs.  of  Chipped  Fustic. 

1 pint  of  Chemic. 

Boil  1J  hour. 


No.  14. 

20  Pieces,  BASTINGS.— BOTTLE  GREEN. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  40  lbs.  of  Alum. 

15  lbs.  of  White  Argol. 

50  lbs.  of  Old  Fustic. 

2 or  3 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

3 quarts  of  Chemic. 

Boil  1 \ hour. 


232 


LASTING-DYEING. 


No.  15. 

20  Pieces,  LASTINGS.— BLUE  BLACK. 

Boil  40  minutes  in  a clean  vessel  with 
2 lbs.  of  Chrome. 

2 lbs.  of  Argol. 

Finish  in  another  vessel  with  40  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Boil  40  minutes. 


No.  16. 

20  Pieces , LASTINGS.— FULL  BLACK. 

Boil  40  minutes  in  a clean  vessel  with 
2 lbs.  of  Chrome. 

2 lbs.  of  Argol. 

Finish  in  another  vessel  with 
50  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

10  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

If  not  dark  enough,  add  a few  pounds  more  Log- 
wood. 


No.  17. 

20  Pieces , LASTINGS.— CLARET  BROWN. 
First  boil  40  minutes  in  a clean  vessel  with 
2 lbs.  of  Chrome. 

Then  wash  and  finish  in  another  vessel  with 
8 ozs.  of  Alum. 

8 ozs.  of  Logwood. 

20  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

30  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

Boil  1 hour  in  the  finishing,  then  clean  and  dry  off. 


LASTING-DYEING. 


283 


Lighter  or  darker  shades  may  be  dyed  by  add- 
ing or  diminishing  the  quantity  of  Logwood,  ac- 
cording to  the  shade  required.  A very  small 
quantity  of  Logwood  will  make  a great  difference 
in  the  shade.  By  adding  1 oz.  more  to  each  Piece, 
it  will  be  much  darker. 

The  same  shade  of  color  may  be  dyed  with 
Camwood,  Chemic,  and  Acid,  but  it  is  more  ex- 
pensive, and  sometimes  the  fabric  is  made  tender 
by  this  process. 


No.  18. 

20  Pieces , LASTINGS.— DARK  BROWN. 

Dye  with  GO  lbs.  of  Camwood. 

3 pints  of  Chemic. 

20  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

3 pints  of  Sulphuric  Acid. 

10  lbs.  of  Turmeric. 

Boil  2 hours. 

Less  Camwood  will  dye  the  same  shade  when 
the  vessel  is  seasoned,  by  dyeing  a similar  color 
before  it.  Camwood  requires  to  be  well  boiled  to 
get  the  strength  out  of  it,  and  also  requires  a 
strong  Acid. 


20* 


234 


LASTING-DYEING. 


No.  19. 

20  Pieces , LASTINGS.—  LIGHT  PURPLE. 

Roil  3 hours  in  a clean  vessel  with  50  lbs.  of  Alum. 
10  lbs.  of  Red  Argol. 

10  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Wash  well,  and  finish  in  a clean  vessel  with 
10  lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

5 quarts  of  Ammonia. 

Clean  and  dry  off. 


No.  20. 

20  Pieces , LASTINGS.— MIDDLE  PURPLE. 

Boil  3 hours  in  a clean  vessel  with  50  lbs.  of  Alum. 
10  lbs.  of  Argol. 

20  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Clean  well,  and  finish  in  a clean  vessel  with 
10  lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

6 quarts  of  Ammonia. 

If  a Bluer  shade  of  Purple  is  required,  add 
more  ammonia  in  the  finishing,  and  when  a Red 
shade  is  required,  add  no  Ammonia  in  the  finish- 
ing. 


LASTING-DYEING. 


235 


No.  21. 

20  Pieces,  LASTINGS.— DARK  PURPLE. 

This  color  is  dyed  in  all  respects  the  same 
as  the  last,  but  must  have  more  Logwood  in  the 
boiling,  and  a little  more  Ammonia  in  the  finish- 
ing, in  order  to  raise  the  Logwood. 


No.  22. 

20  Pieces,  LASTINGS.— ROYAL  BLUE. 

In  a clean  vessel  of  water  add 
15  lbs.  of  Prussiate  of  Potash. 

15  quarts  of  Royal  Blue  Spirits. 

Heat  up  to  100°,  enter  the  pieces,  and  turn 
them  half  an  hour;  take  them  on  to  the  wench, 
and  heat  the  Liquor  up  to  140°,  and  put  the  Pieces 
into  the  Liquor  again,  and  turn  them  half  an  hour 
more.  Again  take  them  on  to  the  wench,  then 
heat  the  Liquor  up  to  180°,  and  add  2 quarts  of 
Finishing  Spirits.  Put  the  Pieces  down  again, 
and  turn  half  an  hour  more.  After  which,  take 
them  out  of  the  vessel,  cool  them  over,  heat  the 
Liquor  up  to  the  boiling  point,  and  add  3 quarts 
of  Finishing  Spirits ; enter  the  Pieces  again,  boil 
half  an  hour,  and  then  take  out. 

The  Pieces  will  then  be  a good  Light  Royal 
Blue. 


236 


LASTING-DYEING. 


If  a darker  shade  is  required,  add  2 quarts 
more  Finishing  Spirits,  and  1,  2,  or  3 lbs.,  or 
more  or  less,  Logwood,  according  to  the  shade  of 
darkness  required  ; enter  the  Pieces  again,  and 
boil  them  half  an  hour  more.  Then  take  them 
out,  cool  them  over,  and  clean  off  for  the  drying- 
machine. 

The  Logwood  will  produce  a bloomy  appear- 
ance, and  make  the  color  darker. 


No.  23. 

20  Pieces,  LASTINGS.— ANOTHER  MODE 
OF  DYEING  PURPLES. 

Boil  40  minutes  with  2 lbs.  of  Chrome  in  a clean 
vessel,  then  wash  well,  and  finish  in  another  vessel 
of  clean  "water  with  10  lbs.  of  Cudbear  and  10  lbs. 
of  Logwood.  Clean  and  dry  off. 

Any  shade  of  purple  may  be  dyed  in  this  man- 
ner, using  more  Logwood  for  darker,  and  less  for 
lighter  shades. 


SHOT  COBOURG  DYEING. 


— • — 

ORLEANS  ARE  DYED  IN  THE  SAME  WAY  AS 
COBOURGS. 

« 

No.  1. 

10  Pieces , | SHOT  COBOURGS.— BLUE 
AND  PINK. 

Worsted  Dye  with  2 tots  of  Liquid  Extract. 

3 pints  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

10  lbs.  of  Crystals. 

Clean  and  Cotton  Dye  with  1 pint  of  Spent  or 
Bottled  Safflower. 

1 tot  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

Then  wash  off. 


No.  2. 

10  Pieces , f SHOT  COBOURGS.— YELLOW 

AND  BLUE. 

Worsted  Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  2 lbs.  of  White 
Argol. 

5 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

7|  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 


I 


238  SHOT  COBOURO  DYEING. 

Clean  and  Cotton  Dye  by  first  running  them 
20  minutes  through  Nitrate  of  Iron  Liquor,  3 gills 
to  a Piece,  then  through  1J  lb.  of  melted  Prus- 
siate  of  Potash  in  a separate  Vessel,  6 ends;  then 
take  up  and  add  1 gill  of  Oil  of  Vitriol,  run  8 
ends,  and  then  clean  off. 


No.  3. 

10  Pieces,  | SHOT  COBOURGS.— ORANGE 

AND  BLUE. 

Worsted  Dye  with  2 lbs.  of  Argol. 

5 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

10  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

1J  lbs.  of  Cochineal. 

Cotton  Dye  same  as  No.  2. 


No.  4. 

10  Pieces , | SHOT  COBOURGS. — CRIMSON 

AND  BLUE. 

Worsted  Dye  with  3 lbs.  of  Argol. 

5 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

5 lbs.  of  Cochineal. 

Cotton  Dye  same  as  No.  2. 


I 


SHOT  COBOURG  DYEING.  239 

No.  5. 

10  Pieces , | SHOT  COBOURGS. — RUBY 
AND  BLUE. 

Worsted  Dye  with  6 lbs.  of  Cudbear. 
Cotton  Dye  same  as  No.  2. 

Darker  shades  of  Blue  may  be  got  by  adding 
more  Prussiate. 


No.  6. 

10  Pieces , | SHOT  COBOURGS.— 
LAVENDER  AND  PINK. 

Worsted  Dye  with  2 tots  of  Liquid  Extract. 

1 lb.  of  Paste  Cudbear. 

3 pints  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

10  lbs.  of  Crystals. 

Cotton  Dye  by  first  running  them  through  20 
lbs.  of  Sumach,  8 ends,  then  through  2 quarts  of 
Nitrate  of  Iron;  clean,  and  run  them  through  2 
Pailfuls  of  strong  Peachwood  Liquor,  then  through 
3 pints  of  Orleans  Spirits,  and  clean  off. 


240 


SHOT  C0I30URG  DYEING. 


No.  7. 

10  Pieces , | SHOT  COBOURGS.— GREEN 

AND  PINK. 

Worsted  Dye  with  2 tots  of  Liquid  Extract. 

20  lbs.  of  Old  Fustic. 

10  lbs.  of  Alum. 

2 lbs.  of  Argol. 

Cotton  Dye  same  as  No.  6,  or  No.  1. 


No.  8. 

10  Pieces,  f SHOT  COBOURGS.— 
LAVENDER  AND  CRIMSON. 

AVorsted  Dye  with  2J  tots  of  Liquid  Extract. 

8 pints  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

10  lbs.  of  Crystals. 

To  Cotton  Dye  them,  Sumach  and  Spiritth  em, 
then  run  through  Peachwood  Liquor,  and  Spirit 
again. 


No.  9. 

10  Pieces , f SHOT  COBOURGS.— DARK 
SKY  AND  CRIMSON. 

Worsted  Dye  as  No.  8,  but  add  2 tots  more  of 
Liquid  Extract. 

Cotton  Dye  same  as  No.  8,  but  with  stronger 
Peachwood  Liquor. 


SHOT  COBOURG  DYEING. 


241 


No.  10. 

10  Pieces , | SHOT  COBOURGS.— LIGHT 
GREEN  AND  SALMON. 

Worsted  Dye  with  1 tot  of  Liquid  Extract. 

10  lbs.  of  Alum. 

2 lbs.  of  Argol. 

20  lbs.  of  Old  Fustic. 

Cotton  Dye  same  as  No.  8,  but  with  less  Peach- 
wood  Liquor. 

No.  11. 

10  Pieces, , | SHOT  COBOURGS.— GREEN 

AND  PINK. 

Worsted  Dye  with  8 tots  of  Liquid  Extract. 

10  lbs.  of  Alum. 

2 lbs.  of  Argol. 

30  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

Cotton  Dye  same  as  No.  6. 


No.  12. 

10  Pieces , SHOT  COBOURGS.— GREEN 
AND  CLARET. 

Worsted  Dye  with  1 pint  of  Chemic. 

10  lbs.  of  Alum. 

2 lbs.  of  Argol. 

20  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

Cotton  Dye  by  running  them  in  Sumach,  then 

21 


242 


SHOT  COBOURG  DYEING. 


in  Iron  Liquor,  and  then  in  Spirits,  8 ends  in  each ; 
clean  and  run  them  in  a cistern  of  cold  water, 
with  10  lbs.  of  spent  Logwood,  and  clean  them. 


No.  13.  , 

10  Pieces , | SHOT  COBOURGS.— GREEN 
AND  PURPLE. 

Worsted  Dye  with  1 gill  of  Chemic. 

20  lbs.  of  Old  Fustic. 

10  lbs.  of  Alum. 

2 lbs.  of  Argol. 

Cotton  Dye  by  running  them  in  Sumach,  then 
through  1 quart  of  Muriate  of  Tin,  then  in  a cis- 
tern of  cold  water,  with  10  lbs.  of  spent  Log- 
wood; after  running  them  8 ends,  take  up  and  add 
10  ozs.  of  Crystals  of  Tin,  and  run  8 ends  more. 

No.  14. 

10  Pieces , f SHOT  COBOURGS.—  BLACK 
AND  CRIMSON. 

Worsted  Dye  Black  in  the  following  manner: 
Boil  20  minutes  with  2 lbs.  of  Chrome,  then  run 
them  through  Sumach  and  Iron  separately;  clean, 
and  finish  with  50  lbs.  of  Logwood,  15  lbs.  of 
Fustic,  2 lbs.  of  Red  Argol,  and  boil  them  half 
an  hour.  Similar  shades  may  be  got,  but  not 


SHOT  COBOURG  DYEING. 


243 


equally  approved,  being  dearer,  by  being  Sumached 
and  Ironed  first,  and  then  Chromed.  The  Cotton 
may  be  dyed  after  the  Worsted  is  dyed  Black,  by 
being  Sumached,  Ironed,  and  filled  up  with  Log- 
wood, which  for  coarse  rough  Goods  is  perhaps 
preferable. 

Cotton  Dye  by  running  them  in  Sumach  and 
Iron,  then  clean;  boil  up  20  lbs.  of  Peachwood  in 
the  bottom  of  a cistern,  run  8 ends,  then  take  up 
and  add  3 quarts  of  Muriate  of  Tin,  and  run  other 
8 ends. 


No.  15. 

10  Pieces , f SHOT  COBOURGS.— LIGHT 
OLIVE  AND  CRIMSON. 

Worsted  Dye  with  5 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract. 
10  lbs.  of  Alum. 

2 lbs.  of  Argol. 

20  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

Cotton  Dye  same  as  No.  14. 


No.  16. 

10  Pieces,  SHOT  COBOURGS.— ORANGE 
AND  PURPLE. 

Worsted  Dye  with  2 lbs.  of  White  Argol. 

5 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

1J  lbs.  of  Cochineal. 

7J  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

Cotton  Dye  same  as  No.  13. 


244 


SHOT  COBOURG  DYEING. 


No.  IT. 

10  Pieces,  f SHOT  COBOURGS.— ROYAL 
BLUE  AND  FULL  PINK. 

Worsted  Dye  with  5 lbs.  of  Prussiate. 

10  pints  of  Blue  Spirits. 

5 pints  of  Finishing  Spirits. 

Heat  up,  according  to  No.  22  of  Bastings. 
Cotton  Dye  by  running  them  through  Sumach, 
Iron,  and  Spirits,  separately;  then  through  20 
lbs.  of  Spent  Peachwood,  and  clean  them. 


No.  18. 

10  Pieces , f SHOT  COBOURGS.— GREEN 
AND  ORANGE. 

Worsted  Dye  with  20  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

3 gills  of  Chemic. 

10  lbs.  of  Alum. 

2 lbs.  of  Argol ; clean,  and 
Cotton  Dye  by  running  them  in  Sumach  and  Spirits 
separately,  and  then  boil  up  in  the  bottom  of  a 
cistern. 

10  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

10  lbs.  of  Quercitron  Bark. 

2 lbs.  of  Alum. 

Run  them  10  ends. 

Lighter  or  Darker  shades  of  Orange  may  be 
got  by  adding  more  or  less  Peachwood. 


SILK  STRIPED  ORLEANS, 

FROM  BLACK,  WHITE,  AND  COLORED 

WARPS. 


No.  1. 

6 Pieces, , f SILK  STRIPES.— LIGHT  OLIVE 
FROM  BLACK  WARP. 

Dye  with  6 lbs.  of  Turmeric. 

4 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

1 lb.  of  Blue  Vitriol. 

Boil  40  minutes,  and  clean  off. 


No.  2. 

6 Pieces, , f SILK  STRIPES.— DARK  OLIVE 
FROM  BLACK  WARP. 

Boil  20  minutes  with  12  ozs.  of  Chrome. 

Clean,  and  finish  in  a clean  vessel  with  4 lbs.  of 
Turmeric. 

1J  lb.  of  Logwood. 

Boil  30  minutes,  and  clean  off. 

21* 


246 


SILK  STRIPE  DYEING. 


No.  8. 

6 Pieces , f SILK  STRIPES.— BROWN 
OLIVE  FROM  BLACK  WARP. 

Dye  with  6 lbs.  of  Turmeric. 

4 lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

6 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

J lb.  of  Alum. 

1 lb.  of  Blue  Vitriol.  Boil  40  minutes. 


No.  4. 

6 Pieces,  f SILK  STRIPES.— RED  BROWN 
FROM  PURPLE  WARP. 

Dye  with  12  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

2 lbs.  of  Alum. 

1 lb.  of  Logwood. 

2 lbs.  of  Turmeric.  Boil  40  minutes. 


No.  5. 

6 Pieces,  f SILK  STRIPES.— DARK 
CLARET  FROM  BLACK  WARP. 
Chrome  same  as  No.  2. 

Finish  with  2 lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

6 lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

2 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

12  ozs.  of  Alum. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


SILK  STRIPE  DYEING. 


247 


No.  6. 

6 Pieces, , f SILK  STRIPES. — CHROMED 
BROWN,  PURPLE  WARP. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  2. 

Einish  -with  2 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

12  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

12  ozs.  of  Alum. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


No.  7. 

6 Pieces,  f SILK  STRIPES.— CLARET 
BROWN  FROM  CLARET  WARP. 

Dye  with  12  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

2 lbs.  of  Alum. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


No.  8. 

6 Pieces,  f SILK  STRIPES.— DARK 
CLARET  BROWN  FROM 
CLARET  WARP. 

Dye  with  12  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

4 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

1 lb.  of  Alum. 

1 lb.  of  Blue  Vitriol. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


248 


SILK  STRIPE  DYEING. 


No.  9. 

6 Pieces,  f SILK  STRIPES.— CHROMED 
CLARET  FROM  CLARET  PURPLE 
WARP. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  2. 

Finish  with  12  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

2 lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


No.  10. 

6 Pieces , J SILK  STRIPES.— DARK 
CLARET  FROM  PURPLE  WARP. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  2. 

Finish  with  12  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

1 lb.  of  Cudbear. 

1 lb.  of  Logwood. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


No.  11. 

6 Pieces,  f SILK  STRIPES.— RUBY  FROM  * 
VIOLET  WARP. 


Dye  with  G lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

Boil  20  minutes. 


SILK  STRIPE  DYEING. 


249 


No.  12. 

6 Pieces , f SILK  STRIPES.— LIGHT 
CLARET  FROM  PURPLE  WARP. 

Boil  1 hour  with  6 lbs.  of  Alum. 

12  ozs.  of  Logwood. 

Clean  and  finish  with  12  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 
1 lb.  of  Cudbear. 

Boil  20  minutes. 


No.  13. 

6 Pieces , f SILK  STRIPES.— DARKER 
CLARET  FROM  CLARET  WARP. 

Boil  1 hour  with  6 lbs.  of  Alum. 

3 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Clean  and  finish  with  12  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

1 lb.  of  Cudbear. 

1 quart  of  Ammonia. 

Boil  20  minutes. 


No.  14. 

6 Pieces,  f SILK  STRIPES.— ADELAIDE 
FROM  BLACK  WARP. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  2. 

Finish  with  3 lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

2 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


250 


SILK  STRIPE  DYEING. 


No.  15. 

6 Pieces,  f SILK  STRIPES. — DARK  MUL 
BERRY  FROM  BLACK  WARP. 

Chrome  as  No.  2. 

Finish  with  4 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

3 lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

1 quart  of  Ammonia. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


No.  16. 

6 Pieces , f SILK  STRIPES.— ADELAIDE 
FROM  BLACK  WARP. 

Chrome  as  No.  2. 

Finish  with  2J  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

2 lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

1 pint  of  Ammonia. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


No.  IT. 

6 Pieces , J SILK  STRIPES.— VIOLET 
FROM  VIOLET  WARP. 

Run  2 ends  through  the  Copperas  Vat. 

Finish  with  4 lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


SILK  STRIPE  DYEING. 


251 


No.  18. 

6 Pieces. , f SILK  STRIPES.— ROYAL  BLUE 
EROM  WHITE  WARP. 

First  prepare  the  Cotton  by  running  them  18  ends 
in  3 gallons  of  Nitrate  of  Iron,  then  clean  and 
Worsted  Dye  with  4J  lbs.  of  Prussiate. 

4 quarts  of  Blue  Spirits. 

2 quarts  of  Finishing  Spirits. 

Heat  up  to  100°. 

When  a Buffing  Machine  is  used,  much  less  Iron 
will  do. 


No.  19. 

6 Pieces,  SILK  STRIPES.— LAVENDER 
FROM  WHITE  WARP. 

First  run  1 end  in  the  Copperas  Vat,  then  Worsted 
Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  1 lb.  of  White  Argol. 
2 lbs.  of  Alum. 

6 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract. 

1 handful  of  Cudbear. 

Redden  in  a cistern  of  Cold  Water  with  2 quarts 
of  Red  Liquor,  and  1 lb.  of  spent  Logwood. 


252 


SILK  STRIPE  DYEING. 


No.  20. 

6 Pieces , f SILK  STRIPES.— RED  BROWN 
FROM  PURPLE  WARP. 

Chrome  as  No.  2. 

Finish  with  6 lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

6 lbs.  of  Turmeric. 

1 lb.  of  Alum. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


No.  21. 

5 Pieces , SILK  STRIPES.— GREEN  FROM 

WHITE  WARP. 

Worsted  Dye  with  1 gill  of  Chemic. 

12  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

6 lbs.  of  Alum. 

1 lb.  of  Argol. 

Clean  and  Silk  Dye  with  a little  Sweet  Extract, 
at  80°,  then  Cotton  Dye  by  running  them 
through  Sumach  and  Iron  separately,  then  clean 
again,  and  run  through  8 lbs.  of  Spent  Logwood 
in  Cold  Water. 


SILK  STRIPE  DYEING. 


253 


No.  22. 

6 Pieces , f SILK  STRIPES.— SOLID  GRAIN 
PINK  EROM  WHITE  WARP. 

Worsted  Dye  with  5 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

2 lbs.  of  White  Argol. 

5 ozs.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

5 ozs.  of  Paste  Cochineal. 

Clean  and  Cotton  Dye  with  1 pint  of  spent  or 
bottled  Safflower,  and  1 tot  of  Oil  of  Vitriol, 
in  a cistern  of  clean  water. 

ANOTHER  MODE. 

Cotton  and  Silk  Dye  together  by  running  them  in 
a little  Red  Liquor,  and  then  through  a little 
Cochineal  previously  scalded  and  settled,  and 
use  only  the  clear  Liquor. 

In  this  instance,  the  Cotton,  Silk,  and  Worsted 
are  all  dyed  from  Cochineal,  a thing  I never 
saw  or  knew  before  I tried  it. 


22 


COLORED  ORLEANS, 

FROM  BLACK  WARPS. 

♦ 

No.  1. 

10  Pieces,  f ORLEANS.— LIGHT  BROWN. 

First  run  8 ends  in  1 quart  of  Orleans  Spirits. 
Clean  and  then  dye  with  10  lbs.  of  Turmeric. 

10  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

2 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

2\  lbs.  of  Blue  Vitriol. 

1 lb.  of  Alum. 

Boil  40  minutes. 


No.  2. 

10  Pieces,  f ORLEANS.— CHROMED 
BROWN. 

Boil  20  minutes  with  1 lb.  of  Chrome. 

Clean  and  finish  with  20  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

5 lbs.  of  Turmeric. 

J lb.  of  Alum. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


ORLEANS  FROM  BLACK  WARPS. 


255 


No.  3. 

10  Pieces,  f ORLEANS.— CLARET. 

Spirit  same  as  No.  1. 

Boil  1 hour  with  10  lbs.  of  Alum. 

2 lbs.  of  Logwood- 

Clean  and  finish  with  20  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 
2 quarts  of  Ammonia. 

Boil  half  an  hour  in  the  finishing.  ' 

j 


No.  4. 

10  Pieces , | ORLEANS.— DARK  CLARET. 

Spirit  same  as  No.  1. 

Boil  1 hour  with  10  lbs.  of  Alum. 

8 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Clean  and  finish  with  12  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

3 quarts  of  Ammonia. 

Boil  half  an  hour  in  the  finishing. 


No.  5. 

10  Pieces , f ORLEANS.— BLUE  CLARET. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  2. 

Finish  with  2 lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

10  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


25G 


ORLEANS  FROM  BLACK  WARPS. 


No.  6. 

10  Pieces,  | ORLEANS.— VIOLET. 

Dye  with  8 lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

Run  them  2 ends  through  the  Copperas  Vat. 
Boil  half  an  hour. 


No.  7. 

10  Pieces , f ORLEANS.— ADELAIDE. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  2. 

Einish  with  4 lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

6 lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

2 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


No.  8. 

10  Pieces , £ ORLEANS.— DARK  CLARET 

BROWN. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  2. 

Finish  with  20  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

1 lb.  of  Logwood. 

2 ozs.  of  Alum. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


ORLEANS  FROM  BLACK  WARPS. 


257 


No.  9. 

10  Pieces,  f ORLEANS. — DARK  BROWN 

OLIVE. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  2. 

Finish  with  10  lbs.  of  Turmeric. 

10  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

2 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


No.  10. 

10  Pieces , f ORLEANS.— GREEN  OLIVE. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  2. 

Finish  with  20  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

4 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

2 ozs.  of  Alum. 

Boil  40  minutes. 


No.  11. 

10  Pieces , | ORLEANS.— DARKER  GREEN 

OLIVE. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  2. 

Finish  with  5 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

8 lbs.  of  Turmeric. 

4 ozs.  of  Alum. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 

22* 


258 


ORLEANS  FROM  BLACK  WARPS. 


No.  12. 

10  Pieces , | ORLEANS.— CHROMED 
GREEN. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  2. 

Finish  with  10  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

5 lbs.  of  Dogwood. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


No.  13. 

10  Pieces,  f ORLEANS.— INVISIBLE 
GREEN. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  2,  Silk  Stripes. 

Finish  with  15  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

10  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 

Lighter  or  Darker  shades  may  be  obtained  by 
using  more  or  less  Logwood. 


No.  14. 

10  Pieces,  | ORLEANS.— BLUE  BLACK. 

Boil  20  minutes  with  1 lb.  of  Chrome. 

Finish  with  20  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


ORLEANS  FROM  BLACK  WARPS. 


259 


No.  15. 

10  Pieces , f ORLEANS. — FULL  BLACK. 

'Chrome  same  as  No.  14. 

Finish  with  25  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

10  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

1 lb.  of  Bed  Argol. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


COLORED 

ORLEANS  AND  COBOURGS, 

FROM  WHITE  WARPS. 

♦ 

No.  1. 

10  Pieces , f CINNAMON  BROWN. 

Run  8 Ends  in  20  lbs.  of  Sumach. 

Then  8 Ends  in  2 Quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Iron. 

1 Pint  of  Muriate  of  Tin. 

Each  in  a separate  vessel ; then  clean  them,  and 
dye  off  with  15  lbs.  of  Turmeric. 

2 lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

2\  lbs.  of  Alum,  and 
2J  lbs.  of  Blue  Vitriol. 

Boil  half  an  hour,  and  clean  off. 


No.  2. 

10  Pieces , | RED  BROWN. 

Prepare  as  No.  1,  Dye  with  20  lbs.  of  Peach- 
wood. 

2 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

5 lbs.  Turmeric. 

2\  lbs.  of  Alum,  and 
2\  lbs.  of  Blue  Vitriol. 


COLORED  ORLEANS  AND  COBOURGS.  261 


No.  3. 

10  Pieces , f COFFEE  BROWN. 

Prepare  as  No.  1,  Dye  with  25  lbs.  of  Peach- 
wood. 

15  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

8 lbs.  of  Turmeric. 

2J  lbs.  of  Alum,  and 
2J  lbs.  of  Blue  Vitriol. 


No.  4. 

10  Pieces , f LIGHT  CLARET. 

Run  them  8 Ends  in  20  lbs.  of  Sumach. 

Then  in  2 Quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Iron. 

8 Ends  in  1 Quart  of  Muriate  of  Tin. 

Each  in  a separate  vessel. 

Clean  and  run  them  through  10  lbs.  of  Log- 
wood, in  a cistern  of  cold  water,  then  boil  them  1 
hour  with  10  lbs.  of  Alum,  clean  and  finish  with 
20  lbs.  of  Peachwood,  and  2 Quarts  of  Ammonia; 
boil  20  minutes  in  finishing. 


262  COLORED  ORLEANS  AND  COBOURGS. 


No.  5. 

10  Pieces, , f MIDDLE  CLARET. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  4. 

Boil  1 hour  with  10  lbs.  of  Alum. 

5 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Clean  and  finish  with  20  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

2 quarts  of  Ammonia. 

• No.  6. 

10  Pieces,  | DARK  CLARET. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  4. 

Boil  1 hour  with  10  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

10  lbs.  of  Alum. 

Clean  and  finish  with  20  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

3 quarts  of  Ammonia. 

No.  T. 

10  Pieces,  f CHROMED  CLARET. 
Prepare  same  as  No.  4. 

Clean  and  boil  20  minutes  with  1 lb.  of  Chrome. 
Finish  in  another  vessel  with  15  lbs.  of  Peach- 
wood. 

2 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

J lb.  of  Alum. 


COLORED  ORLEANS  AND  COBOURQS.  263 


No.  8. 

10  Pieces , f ADELAIDE. 

« 

Prepare  same  as  No.  4. 
Chrome  same  as  No.  T. 
Finish  with  5 lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

2 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


No.  9. 

10  Pieces , | MULBERRY. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  4. 
Chrome  same  as  No.  7. 
Finish  with  5 lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

2 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


No.  10. 

10  Pieces,  f APPLE  GREEN. 

Worsted  Dye  with  5 lbs.  of  Turmeric. 

J gill  of  Chemic. 

10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

1 quart  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

Clean  and  run  them  8 ends  in  20  lbs.  of  Sumach. 
8 ends  in  2 quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Iron. 

Clean  again,  then  dye  off  with  6 lbs.  of  Turmeric. 
1 lb.  of  Blue  Vitriol,  and  clean  off. 


264  COLORED  ORLEANS  AND  COBOURGS. 

No.  11. 

10  Pieces,  | LIGHT  OLIVE. 

Worsted  Dye  with  1 gill  of  Chemic. 

5 lbs.  of  Turmeric. 

10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

1 quart  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

In  other  respects,  same  as  No.  10. 

Olives  of  this  and  darker  shades  may  be  got 
from  Chroming,  but  not  to  appear  so  Green  when 
looked  through  the  Piece. 


No.  12. 

10  Pieces , | DARK  GREEN  OLIVE. 

Worsted  Dye  with  3 gills  of  Chemic. 

5 lbs.  of  Turmeric. 

10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

1 quart  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

Clean,  then  Sumach  and  Iron,  and  clean  again, 
then 

Dye  them  off  with  5 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

5 lbs.  of  Turmeric. 

2 lbs.  of  Blue  Vitriol. 


COLORED  ORLEANS  AND  COBOURGS.  265 


No.  13. 

10  Pieces,  f BROWN  OLIVE. 

Worsted  Dye  with  5 lbs.  of  Turmeric. 

1  gill  of  Chemic. 

10  lbs.  of  Super  ArgoL 
1 quart  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

Clean,  Sumach,  and  Iron  them  separately,  and 
spirit  with 

1 pint  of  Muriate  of  Tin. 

Clean  again,  and  Dye  off  with  2 lbs.  of  Logwood. 
10  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

2 J lbs.  of  Blue  Vitriol.  * 


No.  14. 

10  Pieces,  | DARK  GREEN. 

Worsted  Dye  with  20  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

3  pints  of  Chemic. 

10  lbs.  of  Alum. 

5 lbs.  of  Red  ArgoL 

Clean,  and  dye  the  Cotton  by  first  running  them 
through  Sumach,  and  then  through  Iron,  clean 
again,  and  then  run  8 ends  through  10  lbs.  of 
spent  Logwood. 

23 


* 


266  COLORED  ORLEANS  AND  COBOURGS. 

No.  15. 

10  Pieces , | INVISIBLE  GEEEN. 

Worsted  Dye  same  as  No.  14,  but  add  1 quart 
more  of  Chemic. 

Cotton  Dye  same  as  No.  14. 

Dark  Greens  may  be  got  from  Chroming  in 
White  Warps  as  well  as  in  Black. 


No.  16. 

10  Pieces , £ BED  CLARET. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  4. 
Chrome  same  as  No.  T. 
Finish  with  20  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

\ lb.  of  Alum. 

1 lb.  of  Logwood. 


No.  IT. 

10  Pieces , £ RED  BROWN. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  1. 
Dye  with  20  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

5 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

10  lbs.  of  Turmeric. 

3J  lbs.  of  Blue  Vitriol. 

2 lbs.  of  Alum. 


COLORED  ORLEANS  AND  COBOURGS.  267 


No.  18. 

10  Pieces , | DARK  BROWN. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  4. 
Chrome  same  as  No.  7. 
Finish  with  5 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

10  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

1 0 lbs.  of  Fustic. 

2J  lbs.  of  Alum. 


No.  19. 

10  Pieces,  f SILVER  DRAB. 

Worsted  Dye  with  4 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract. 
J handful  of  Cudbear. 

10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

3 gills  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

Clean  and  Cotton  Dye  by  first  running  them  in 
Sumach  and  Iron,  8 ends  separately,  and  then 
clear  with  1 tot  of  Oil  of  Vitriol  in  a cistern  of 
clean  water. 


No.  20. 

10  Pieces , f DARK  SILVER  DRAB. 

Worsted  Dye  with  6 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract. 
J handful  of  Cudbear. 

1 handful  of  Madder. 

10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

3 gills  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

Cotton  Dye  same  as  No.  19. 


268  COLORED  ORLEANS  AND  COBOURGS. 

No.  21. 

10  Pieces , J STONE  DRAB. 

Worsted  Dye  with  5 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract. 
5 lbs.  of  Madder. 

1 handful  of  Paste  Cudbear. 

10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

3 gills  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

Cotton  Dye  by  running  them  in  Sumach  and 
Iron,  8 ends,  and  then  through  2 pails  of  Catechu 
Liquor,  and  1 tot  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 


No.  22. 

10  Pieces , f MADDER  DRAB. 

Worsted  Dye  'with  5 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract. 
10  lbs.  of  Madder. 

10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

1 handful  of  Paste  Cudbear. 

3 gills  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

Cotton  Dye  by  first  running  them  in  Sumach, 
and  then  in  Iron,  then  through  a cistern  of  warm 
water,  with  J lb.  of  Chrome,  melted,  and  2 Buckets 
of  Catechu  Liquor. 


COLORED  ORLEANS  AND  COBOUROS. 


2G9 


No.  23. 

10  Pieces , | LAVENDER  DRAB. 

First  run  1 end  in  the  Copperas  Vat,  then  Worsted 
Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  2 lbs.  of  White  Argol. 
2 lbs.  of  Alum. 

8 spoonfuls  of  Paste  Extract. 


No.  24. 

10  Pieces , § PINK. 

Worsted  Dye  with  5 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

2 lbs.  of  White  Argol. 

5 ozs.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

5 ozs.  of  Paste  Cochineal. 

Clean  and  Cotton  Dye  with  1 pint  of  Spent  or 
Bottled  Safflower  and  1 tot  of  Oil  of  Vitriol,  in 
a cistern  of  clean  water. 


No.  25. 

10  Pieces , f SEA  GREEN. 

Worsted  Dye  with  10  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

10  lbs.  of  Alum. 

2 lbs.  of  White  Argol. 

2 tots  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Clean  and  Cotton  Dye  by  running  them  20 
minutes  in  Nitrate  of  Iron,  at  4°  Twaddell,  then 

23* 


270  COLORED  ORLEANS  AND  COBOURGS. 

# 

run  6 ends  through  1J  lb.  of  Prussiate  of  Potass 
in  a vessel  of  cold  water,  then  take  up  and  add  1 
gill  of  Oil  of  Vitriol,  run  8 ends  more  and  clean 
off. 

% 

So.  26. 

10  Pieces , § SKY  BLUE. 

Worsted  Dye  with  1 tot  of  Liquid  Extract. 

10  lbs.  of  Crystals. 

1 quart  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

Cotton  Dye  same  as  No.  25. 


No.  27. 

10  Pieces , f FULL  BLACK. 

Boil  20  minutes  with  2 lbs.  of  Chrome. 

Sumach*  them  with  10  lbs.  of  Sumach. 

Then  Iron,  clean,  and  finish  with  50  lbs.  of  Log- 
wood. 

15  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

1 lb.  of  Red  Argol. 

* A £ lb.  of  Sumach  is  sufficient  to  a Piece  when  a quan- 
tity is  Sumached  together,  but  rather  more  must  be  used 
when  only  a few  are  Sumached  together. 

The  Sumach  may  be  used  in  Cold  Water  as  well  as  in 
Warm,  without  being  boiled  up  in  the  bottom  of  a cis- 
tern, as  it  generally  leaves  a redness  on  the  face  of  the 
Piece. 


COLORED  MERINOS. 


No.  1. 

10  Pieces,  | ROYAL  BLUE. 

Heat  up  to  100°,  add  10  lbs.  of  Prussiate,  and 
10  quarts  of  Blue  Spirits,  run  half  an  hour,  take 
up,  heat  up  to  140°  ; but  enter  again  and  run 
another  half  hour,  take  up  again  and  heat  up  to 
180°,  add  2 quarts  of  Finishing  Spirits,  enter 
again,  and  run  another  half  hour,  get  out  and 
cool  over,  heat  up  to  the  boiling  point,  add  other 
3 quarts  of  Finishing  Spirits,  enter  again  and 
boil  half  an  hour,  get  out  and  clean  off. 


No.  2. 

10  Pieces,  f DARK  ROYAL  BLUE. 

Same  as  No.  1 in  all  respects,  except  half  an 
hour’s  additional  boiling,  with  2 lbs.  of  Logwood, 
and  another  quart  of  Finishing  Spirits  as  the  last 
operation. 

Lighter  shades  of  No.  1 may  be  got  by  using 
less  Prussiate,  and  darker  than  No.  2,  by  adding 
more  Logwood. 


272 


COLORED  MERINOS. 


No.  3. 

10  Pieces,  f BLUE  SHADE  OF  GRAIN 
MAROON. 

Boil  20  minutes  with  6 lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

Then  in  a separate  vessel  boil  half  an  hour  with 
2 quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

2 lbs.  of  White  Argol. 

1 lb.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 


No.  4. 

10  Pieces , f FULL  GRAIN  CRIMSON. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  4 lbs.  of  White  Argol. 

4 lbs.  of  Alum. 

10  lbs.  of  Paste  Cochineal. 

8 lbs.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

8 quarts  of  Spirits. 

Nitrate  of  Tin  is  the  Spirit  for  a Grain  Color. 


No.  5. 

10  Pieces,  | LIGHT  PINK. 

Dye  with  10  ozs.  of  Cochineal  Paste. 

4 ozs.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

3 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

6 quarts  of  Spirits. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


COLORED  MERINOS. 


273 


No.  6. 


10  Pieces , f SALMON. 

Dye  with  6 quarts  of  Spirits. 

6 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

J lb.  of  Cochineal. 

J lb.  of  Paste  Cochineal. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


No.  7. 

10  Pieces , | GRAIN  ROSE. 

Dye  with  6 quarts  of  Spirits. 

4 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

6 lbs.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

2 lbs.  of  Paste  Cochineal. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


No.  8. 

10  Pieces,  f LIGHT  ORANGE. 

Dye  with  8 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

1J  lb.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

6 quarts  of  Spirits. 

4 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


274 


COLORED  MERINOS. 


No.  9. 

10  Pieces,  f YELLOW. 

Dye  with  4 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

1 lb.  of  Alum. 

5 quarts  of  Spirits. 

7J  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


No.  10. 

10  Pieces,  f GRAIN  SCARLET. 

Dye  with  8 lbs.  of  Cochineal. 

4 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

8 quarts  of  Spirits. 

8 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


No.  11. 

10  Pieces,  f LAC  SCARLET. 

Dye  with  4 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

10  quarts  of  Spirits. 

10  lbs.  of  good  Lac. 

8 lbs.  of  Y'oung  Fustic. 

Boil  1 hour. 

Either  White  or  Brown  Tartar  will  answer  the 
purpose. 


COLORED  MERINOS. 


275 


No.  12. 

10  Pieces,  f LIGHT  PEA  GREEN. 

Dye  with  10  lbs.  of  Alum. 

5 lbs.  of  White  Argol. 

5 lbs.  of  Old  Fustic. 

6 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


No.  13. 


10  Pieces , f SEA  GREEN. 

Dye  with  1 gill  of  Liquid  Extract. 

10  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

5 lbs.  of  Argol. 

20  lbs.  of  Alum. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


No.  14. 

10  Pieces,  f APPLE  GREEN. 

Dye  with  1 gill  of  Liquid  Extract. 

5 lbs.  of  Red  Argol. 

10  lbs.  of  Turmeric. 

3 pints  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


276 


COLORED  MERINOS. 


No.  15. 

10  Pieces , £ BOTTLE  GREEN. 

Dye  with  20  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

20  lbs.  of  Alum. 

10  lbs.  of  Red  Argol. 

3 pints  of  Chemic. 

Boil  1 hour. 


No.  16. 

10  Pieces, , f INVISIBLE  GREEN. 

Dye  with  5 pints  of  Chemic. 

10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

10  lbs.  of  Alum. 

J a Dish  of  Logwood. 

Boil  1 hour. 


No.  17. 

\ 9 

10  Pieces , £ CHROMED  GREEN. 

Boil  20  minutes  with  1 lb.  of  Chrome. 
Finish  with  20  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

8 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Boil  half  an  hour  in  the  finishing. 


COLORED  MERINOS. 


277 


No.  18. 

10  Pieces,  | CHROMED  INVISIBLE  GREEN. 

Boil  20  minutes  with  1 lb.  of  Chrome. 

Finish  with  15  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

12  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 

Compare  the  last  two  with  Nos.  15  and  16,  and 
you  will  see  the  difference  of  cost. 


No.  19. 

10  Pieces , f PURPLE. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  17. 
Finish  with  3 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

5 lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

1 pint  of  Ammonia. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


No.  20. 

10  Pieces,  f LIGHT  CHROMED  PURPLE. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  17. 

Finish  with  8 lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

J lb.  of  Logwood. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


24 


278 


COLORED  MERINOS. 


No.  21. 

10  Pieces,  f VIOLET. 

Boil  20  minutes  with  10  lbs.  of  Cudbear. 
Then  run  them  through  a Copperas  Vat. 


No.  22. 

10  Pieces,  £ RED  RUBY. 

Boil  20  minutes  with  10  lbs.  of  Cudbear. 
Then  wash  off. 


No.  23. 

10  Pieces , £ MAROON. 

Boil  3 hours  with  30  lbs.  of  Alum. 

10  lbs.  of  Red  Argol. 

Clean  well,  and  finish  with  25  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 
1 quart  of  Ammonia. 

Boil  half  an  hour  in  the  finishing. 


No.  24. 

10  Pieces,  £ LIGHT  CLARET. 

Boil  3 hours  with  30  lbs.  of  Alum. 

10  lbs.  of  Red  Argol. 

Clean  and  finish  with  20  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 
1 gallon  of  Ammonia. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


COLORED  MERINOS. 


No.  25; 

10  Pieces , f MIDDLE  CLARET. 

Boil  3 hours  with  30  lbs.  of  Alum. 

10  lbs.  of  Red  Argol. 

J lb.  of  Logwood. 

.Clean  and  finish  with  25  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 
3 quarts  of  Ammonia. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


No.  26. 

10  Pieces , f FULL  CLARET. 

Boil  3 hours  with  30  lbs.  of  Alum. 

10  lbs.  of  Red  Argol. 

3 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Clean  and  finish  with  30  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

4 quarts  of  Ammonia. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


No.  27. 

10  Pieces , f DARK  GREEN  OLIVE. 

Dye  with  10  lbs.  of  Turmeric. 

1 quart  of  Chemic. 

10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

3 pints  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

Boil  1 hour. 


280 


COLORED  MERINOS. 


No.  28. 

10  Pieces , | BROWN  OLIVE. 

Dye  with  10  lbs.  of  Turmeric. 

15  lbs.  of  Camwood. 

1  pint  of  Chemic. 

8 pints  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

Boil  1 hour. 


No.  29. 

10  Pieces , f FULL  RED  BROWN. 

Dye  with  80  lbs.  of  Camwood. 

3 gills  of  Chemic. 

2  quarts  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

4 lbs.  of  Turmeric. 

10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

Boil  1J  hour. 


No.  30. 

10  Pieces , | DARK  COFFEE  BROWN. 

Dye  with  30  lbs.  of  Camwood. 

5  lbs.  of  Turmeric. 

3  pints  of  Chemic. 

2 quarts  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

Boil  1|  hour. 


COLORED  MERINOS. 


281 


No.  31. 

10  Pieces , f ADELAIDE. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  IT. 
Finish  with  3 lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

10  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

2 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

Boil  half  an  hour  in  the  finishing. 


No.  32. 

10  Pieces , | MULBERRY. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  IT. 
Finish  with  10  lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

10  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

10  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

1 quart  of  Ammonia. 

Boil  half  an  hour  in  the  finishing. 


No.  33. 

10  Pieces , f LIGHT  SKY  BLUE. 

Dye  with  2 quarts  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

10  lbs.  of  Crystals. 

10  spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Boil  40  minutes. 

24* 


282 


COLORED  MERINOS. 


No.  84. 

10  Pieces , f DARK  SKY  BLUE. 

Dye  with  2 quarts  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

10  lbs.  of  Crystals. 

1 gill  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Boil  40  minutes. 

Where  Bluer  and  more  bloomy  shades  are  re- 
quired, add  1 oz.  of  Prussiate,  and  a cupful  of 
Nitrate  of  Tin  to  the  10  Pieces. 


No.  35. 

10  Pieces , f LAVENDER. 

Dye  with  1 quart  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

10  lbs.  of  Crystals. 

1 lb.  of  Paste  Cudbear. 

1 gill  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Boil  40  minutes. 


No.  36. 

10  Pieces , f RED  LAVENDER. 

Dye  with  1 quart  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

10  lbs.  of  Crystals. 

2 lbs.  of  Paste  Cudbear. 

1 gill  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Boil  40  minutes. 


COLORED  MERINOS. 


283 


No.  87. 

10  Pieces , f MADDER  DRAB. 

Dye  with  3 pints  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

1 handful  of  Paste  Cudbear. 

4 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract. 

5 lbs.  of  Madder. 

Boil  1 hour. 


No.  88. 

10  Pieces , £ FULL  DRAB. 

Dye  with  3 pints  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol. 

1 handful  of  Paste  Cudbear. 

1 lb.  of  Madder. 

3 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Boil  1 hour. 


No.  39. 

10  Pieces,  f SILVER  DRAB. 

Dye  with  3 pints  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

10  lbs.  of  Crystals. 

3 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract. 

J a handful  of  Paste  Cudbear. 

Boil  40  minutes. 


284 


COLORED  MERINOS. 


No.  40. 

10  Pieces,  | BLUE  BLACK. 

Boil  20  minutes  with  1-J  lb.  of  Chrome. 
Finish  with  20  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

2 lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

Boil  half  an  hour  in  the  finishing. 


No.  41. 

10  Pieces , f FULL  BLACK. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  1 J lb.  of  Chrome. 
Finish  with  80  lbs.  of  Logwood. 

10  lbs.  of  Fustic. 

1 lb.  of  Red  Argol. 

Boil  half  an  hour  in  the  finishing. 


WOOLLEN  SHAWL  DYEING. 


♦ 


No.  1. 

100  WOOLLEN  SHAWLS. — ROYAL  BLUE. 

Dissolve  12  lbs.  of  Prussiate,  and  put  it  into  a 
vessel  with  2 quarts  of  Ammonia ; run  the  Shawls 
6 ends  cold;  take  up,  and  add  12  quarts  of  Blue 
Spirits,  and  run  6 ends  more  cold;  take  up  again, 
and  heat  up  to  120°;  then  run  6 ends  more ; take 
up  again,  and  heat  up  to  180° ; then  run  6 ends 
more,  take  them  out,  cool  them  over,  add  8 pints 
of  Finishing  Spirits,  and  heat  up  to  the  boiling 
point ; enter  again,  and  boil  half  an  hour ; take 
them  out,  cool  over,  and  add  8 pints  more  of 
Finishing  Spirits ; enter  again,  boil  half  an  hour, 
and  then  clean  off. 


No.  2. 

TO  SHAWLS.— BLOOMY  BOYAL  BLUE. 

Dissolve  12  lbs.  of  Prussiate,  which  put  into  a 
cistern  of  cold  water,  with  1 J lb.  of  Logwood  and 
9 quarts  of  Blue  Spirits.  Run  6 ends  cold,  then 


286 


WOOLLEN  SHAWL  DYEING. 


take  them  up,  and  add  3 quarts  more  of  Blue 
Spirits ; get  down  again,  put  the  steam  on  with 
the  Shawls  in  the  vessel,  heat  up  to  the  boiling 
point,  and  boil  20  minutes  ; then  take  out,  cool 
over,  add  3 quarts  of  Finishing  Spirits,  boil  up 
well  before  entering  them,  enter,  boil  20  minutes 
more,  and  then  clean  off. 

This  is  the  best  mode  of  dyeing  Royal  Blue 
Shawls. 


No.  3. 

50  SHAWLS.— LIGHT  ROSE. 

Dye  with  2J  lbs.  of  Alum. 

5 lbs.  of  White  Tartar. 

4 quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

12  ozs.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

Give  them  half  the  Cochineal  at  the  beginning, 
and  the  remainder  when  they  have  boiled  half  an 
hour,  after  which  boil  half  an  hour  more. 


WOOLLEN  SHAWL  DYEING. 


287 


No.  4. 

60  SHAWLS.— FULL  ROSE. 

Dye  with  5 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

2J  lbs.  of  Alum. 

4 quarts  of  Spirits. 

1J  lb.  of  Dry  Cochineal. 

Boil  40  minutes. 

Less  Spirits  and  Acid  will  do  when  shades  of 
the  same  sort  have  been  dyed  before  in  the  same 
vessel. 


No.  5. 

50  SHAWLS.— LIGHT  SALMON. 

Dye  with  4 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

2 ozs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

4 ozs.  of  Cochineal. 

3 quarts  of  Spirits. 

Boil  40  minutes. 


No.  6. 

30  SHAWLS.— FULL  SALMON. 

Dye  with  3 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

8 ozs.  of  Cochineal. 

4  ozs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

3 pints  of  Spirits. 

Boil  40  minutes. 


288 


WOOLLEN  SHAWL  DYEING. 


No.  T. 

40  SHAWLS.— MELON. 

Dye  with  8 ozs.  of  Cochineal. 

8 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

4 pints  of  Spirits. 

Boil  40  minutes. 


No.  8. 

40  SHAWLS.— YELLOW. 

Dye  with  8 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

1 lb.  of  Alum. 

8 lbs.  of  Quercitron  Bark. 

4 pints  of  Oxalic  Tin. 

Boil  20  minutes. 


No.  9. 

40  SHAWLS.— ORANGE. 

Dye  with  4 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

8 ozs.  of  Cochineal. 

4 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

4 pints  of  Spirits. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


WOOLLEN  SHAWL  DYEING. 


289 


No.  10. 

40  SHAWLS.— YELLOW  BUFF. 

Dye  with  3 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

5 pints  of  Spirits. 

1 oz.  of  Cochineal. 

2 ozs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


No.  11. 

40  SHAWLS.— LIGHT  BUFF. 

2 ozs.  of  Cochineal. 

3 ozs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

2 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

3 pints  of  Spirits. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


No.  12. 

40  SHAWLS.— FULL  BUFF. 

Dye  with  4 ozs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

3 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

4 ozs.  of  Cochineal. 

3 pints  of  Spirits. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


25 


290 


WOOLLEN  SHAWL  DYEING. 


No.  13. 

40  SHAWLS.— SCARLET. 

Dye  with  8 lbs.  of  good  Lac. 

4 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

4 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic. 

3 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

6 pints  of  Oxalic  Tin. 

Boil  1 hour. 


No.  14. 

40  SHAWLS.— LAVENDER. 

Dye  with  3 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

8 ozs.  of  Cudbear. 

1 gill  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


No.  15. 

40  SHAWLS.— SKY  BLUE. 

Dye  with  10  lbs.  of  Common  Crystals. 
1 quart  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

1 gill  of  Liquid  Extract. 

Boil  half  an  hour. 


ART  OF  PADDING. 

TO  MAKE  THE  STANDARD  COLORS, 
AND  HOW  TO  MIX  THEM  FOR 
VARIOUS  SHADES. 


♦ 

Padding  is  only  another  mode  of  dyeing  the 
same  color.  It  is  done  bv  a Machine,  rather 
similar  to  the  Crabbing-Machine.  The  Stand- 
ard Colors  are  made  according  to  the  annexed 
Receipts.  In  Padding  any  color,  the  liquor  is 
put  into  the  Trough,  above  which  are  two  Roll- 
ers, which  revolve  against  each  other  with  great 
pressure  ; they  are  covered  either  with  Woollen 
or  Cotton,  and  the  lower  Roller  revolves  in  the 
Dyeing  Liquid.  The  pieces  are  put  under 
the  Trolly,  or  small  Roller  in  the  Trough,  and 
passed  through  the  Machine.  Some  light  colors 
are  dyed  sufficiently  by  passing  them  only  once 
through  the  Machine  ; while  darker  colors  require 
to  he  passed  through  two  or  three  times,  adding 
more  Dye  Liquor  according  to  shade.  By  means 
of  Padding,  Cotton  and  Worsted  may  be  dyed 
nearly  the  same  color  at  the  same  time,  but  colors 


292 


ART  OF  PADDING. 


produced  by  Padding  are  not  so  permanent  as 
those  obtained  by  the  ordinary  mode  of  dyeing. 
A more  permanent  color  by  Padding  may  be  got 
by  dyeing  the  Worsted  first  a little  lighter  than 
the  shade  required,  and  then  by  Cotton  Dyeing 
by  passing  through  the  Padding-Machine.  The 
Pieces,  after  having  been  Padded,  are  taken  to 
the  Drying-Machine,  and  dried  off  the  Rolls,  or 
passed  slowly  through  a hot  stove.  Any  person 
not  acquainted  with  padding  may  soon  acquire  the 
art,  and  produce  equally  as  good  colors  as  any 
person  who  has  been  practising  for  some  time,  by 
adopting  the  following  Receipts,  wdiich  show  how 
to  make  the  Standard  Colors,  and  how  they  are 
mixed.  It  is  difficult,  however,  to  convey  to  any 
person  not  acquainted  with  matching,  the  nicety 
of  bringing  up  the  particular  hue  required.  It 
can  be  obtained  only  by  practice. 

N.  B. — Though  there  are  many  different  colors 
or  tints  in  the  works  of  nature,  and  also  in  objects 
produced  by  art,  yet  all  the  colors  that  we  see,  or 
can  imagine,  are  formed  of  only  three  colors, 
called  the  primary  colors , viz.,  red,  yellow,  and 
blue.  All  other  colors  are  mixed  in  different  ways 
from  these,  and  are  denominated  compound  colors. 
Hence  Green  is  a mixture  of  yellow  and  blue  ; 
and  the  shade  may  be  varied  by  taking  more  of 
the  one  and  less  of  the  other.  Orange  is  a mix- 
ture of  yellow  and  red;  purple , a mixture  of  blue 


ART  OF  PADDING. 


293 


and  red ; and  violet  is  obtained  by  the  addition  of 
more  blue  to  the  mixture.  Brown,  drab,  gray, 
lilac,  and  other  colors  or  tints,  are  also  formed 
by  similarly  mixing  the  primary  colors.  White 
is  perfect  lightness,  or  the  absence  of  all  color, 
and  black  is  perfect  darkness.  White  and  black, 
strictly  speaking,  are  not  colors,  though  they  are 
seen  both  in  nature  and  art. 


25* 


RECEIPTS  FOR  PADDING. 


♦ 


No.  1. 

ESTARIAZER  STANDARD. 

4 1 gallons  of  Water. 

1 gallon  of  Brown  Standard. 

1 gallon  of  Red  Liquor. 

1 quart  of  Iron  Liquor,  24°  Twaddell. 

2 quarts  of  Logwood  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell. 

1 pint  of  Bark  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell. 

To  pad  this  color,  give  Water  according  to 
shade. 


No.  2. 

RED  BROWN  STANDARD. 

8 gallons  of  Sapan  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell. 

8 gallons  of  Bark  Liquor,  12°  Twaddell. 

8 gallons  of  Fustic  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell. 

24  lbs.  of  Alum. 

6 lbs.  of  Sugar  of  Lead. 

Dissolve  together,  and,  when  settled,  use  the 
clear  Liquor  only;  dissolve  6 lbs.  of  Verdigris  in 


ART  OF  PADDING. 


295 


2 gallons  of  Water,  4 gallons  of  Purple  Standard. 
Mix  together. 

As  this  grows  better  by  keeping,  it  should  be 
prepared  three  or  four  weeks  before  it  is  used. 

No.  3. 

DARK  PURPLE  STANDARD. 

4 gallons  of  Red  Liquor. 

8 lbs.  of  Logwood,  heat  up  to  120°. 

Add  J lb.  of  Oxalic  Acid. 

Let  it  settle  24  hours,  and  use  the  clear  liquor 
only. 


No.  4. 

DRAB  STANDARD. 

2 quarts  of  Bark  Liquor,  10°  Twaddell. 

2 quarts  of  Iron  Liquor,  24°  Twaddell. 

2 gallons  of  Water. 

1 pint  of  Gall  Liquor,  10°  Twaddell. 

No.  5. 

DRAB  STANDARD. 

3 quarts  of  Bark  Liquor,  10°  Twaddell. 

1 noggin  of  Acetic  Acid. 

1 noggin  of  Carbonate  of  Iron. 

To  1 gallon  of  this  Standard  add  Water  accord- 
ing to  shade. 


Cn  tO|M 


296 


ART  OF  PADDING. 


No.  6. 

GRAY,  OR  QUAKER  DRAB  STANDARD. 

1 lb.  of  Copperas,  dissolve  in  8 quarts  of  hot 
Water. 

2 quarts  of  Gall  Liquor,  4°  Twaddell. 

1 gill  of  Sulphate  of  Indigo,  or  Chemic. 

No.  T. 

SLATE  STANDARD.  . 

lb.  of  Copperas, 
quarts  of  hot  Water. 

1 gill  of  Chemic. 

1 pint  of  Gall  Liquor,  4°  Twaddell. 

1 quart  of  Iron  Liquor. 

No.  8. 

DOVE  STANDARD,  OLD  WAY. 

1 gallon  of  Purple  Standard. 

1 pint  of  Extract  of  Indigo. 

1 pint  of  Prussiate  Liquor  at  2 lbs.  per  gallon  of 
Water.* 

1,  2,  or  3 gallons  of  Water  to  1 of  the  Standard, 
as  the  shade  may  require. 

* For  the  Prussiate  Liquor,  dissolve  2 lbs.  of  Prussiate 
in  1 gallon  of  hot  Water  ; and  for  the  Extract  of  Indigo, 
mix  1 quart  of  Sulphate  of  Indigo  with  1 gallon  of  Water. 


ART  OF  PADDING. 


297 


No.  9. 

DARK  DOVE  STANDARD,  NEW  WAY. 

4 pints  of  Gall  Liquor,  5°  Twaddell. 

J lb.  of  Copperas. 

1 pint  of  Purple  Standard. 

1 noggin  of  Extract  of  Indigo. 

1 noggin  of  Prussiate  Liquor,*  same  as  No.  8. 


No.  10. 

LIGHT  DOVE  STANDARD. 

1 gallon  of  Purple  Standard. 

1 gallon  of  Water. 

5 gills  of  Extract  of  Indigo. 

8 gills  of  Prussiate  Liquor. 


No.  11. 

FAWN  DRAB  STANDARD. 

3 lbs.  of  Madder. 

4 gallons  of  Water,  boil  10  minutes. 

Add  J lb.  of  Alum. 

5 gills  of  Iron  Liquor. 

* See  note  on  previous  page. 


298 


ART  OF  PADDING. 


No.  12. 

LAVENDER  STANDARD. 

10  gallons  of  hot  Water. 

J lb.  of  Prussiate. 

7 quarts  of  Purple  Standard. 

4 gills  of  Extract  of  Indigo. 


No.  18. 

SULPHATE  OF  INDIGO. 

Take  Sulphate  of  Indigo,  or  Chemic,  dissolve 
1|  lb.  of  ground  Spanish  Indigo  in  6 lbs.  of  Sul- 
phuric Acid,  or  Oil  of  Vitriol.  Let  it  stand  24 
hours  in  a warm  Bath,  then  add  3 gallons  of  boil- 
ing water  and  1 lb.  of  White  Sugar  of  Lead,  and 
strain  through  flannel. 


No.  14. 

BLUE  STANDARD. 

4 quarts  of  hot  Water. 

0 

J lb.  of  Oxalic  Acid. 

1 pint  of  Prussiate  Liquor. 

1 pint  of  Extract. 

When  bloom  is  wanted,  add  a little  Bloom  Pink 
Standard. 


ART  OF  PADDING. 


299 


No.  15. 

BLOOM  PINK  STANDARD. 

1 lb.  of  Cochineal  and  2 lbs.  of  Spirits  of 
Ammonia  ; mix  and  let  them  stand  in  a warm 
place  24  hours,  and  then  add  2 gallons  of  Water ; 
boil  down  to  1 gallon,  then  add  12  ozs.  of  Alum, 
J a pound  of  Oxalic  Acid,  \ a pound  of  Tin 
Crystals. 


No.  16. 

ROYAL  BLUE  STANDARD. 

3 gallons  of  warm  Water. 

8 lbs.  of  Prussiate  of  Potash. 

6 lbs.  of  Tartaric  Acid. 

6 quarts  of  Prussiate  of  Tin. 

1 gill  of  Blue  Spirits. 

This  will  do  either  for  padding  or  printing. 


No.  IT. 

PRUSSIATE  OF  TIN. 

To  make  Prussiate  of  Tin  dissolve  4 lbs.  of 
Prussiate  of  Potash  in  6 gallons  of  warm  Water; 
in  another  vessel  dissolve  5 lbs.  of  Tin  Crystals 
in  6 gallons  of  Water,  and  mix  both  liquors  to- 
gether ; then  pour  cold  Water  into  the  admixture, 


300 


ART  OF  PADDING. 


when  the  Prussiate  will  be  precipitated,  forming 
a pulp  at  the  bottom  of  the  vessel.  Pour  cold 
.Water  upon  it  till  all  the  acid  be  washed  off. 
The  result  will  be  two  gallons  of  pulp,  which  will 
be  the  real  Prussiate  of  Tin. 


N o.  18. 

CLARET  STANDARD. 

5 gallons  of  Sapan  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell. 

4 gallons  of  Logwood  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell. 
14  lb.  of  Sal  Ammoniac. 

Mix  well,  and  let  them  stand  24  hours. 


No.  19. 

TO  PAD  CLARET. 

Take  8 gallons  of  Claret  Standard. 
4 gallons  of  Red  Liquor. 

3 pints  of  Extract  of  Indigo. 

3 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Copper. 

3 lbs.  of  Common  Salt. 


ART  OF  PADDING. 


301 


No.  20. 

TO  PAD  BLACK. 

1 gallon  of  Logwood  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell. 
1 pint  of  Pyroligneous  Acid,  4°  TwaddelL 
I a noggin  of  Acetate  of  Copper. 

1 noggin  of  Nitrate  of  Iron. 

1 noggin  of  Muriate  of  Iron. 

1 noggin  of  Extract  of  Indigo. 


No.  21. 

TO  MAKE  ACETATE  OF  COPPER. 

Dissolve  4 lbs.  of  Sulphate  of  Copper,  or  Blue 
Vitriol,  and  2 lbs.  of  Sugar  of  Lead  in  1 gallon 
of  boiling  Water. 


No.  22. 

STONE  DRAB  STANDARD. 

Dissolve  in  4 gallons  of  hot  Water  1 lb.  of  Cop* 
peras. 

Add  4 pints  of  Gall  Liquor,  4°  Twaddell. 

4 pints  of  Bark  Liquor,  2°  Twaddell. 

1 pint  of  Nitrate  of  Iron. 

1 noggin  of  Sulphate  of  Indigo,  or  Chemic. 

Add  Water  according  to  shade  required. 

26 


tS]H  t«|H 


302 


ART  OF  PADDING. 


No.  23. 

ORANGE  STANDARD. 

4 gallons  of  Water. 

G lbs.  of  Annotta. 
lb.  of  Pearlash. 
lb.  of  Soft  Soap. 

Boil  10  minutes  and  let  it  settle  12  hours. 


No.  24. 

LIGHT  OLIVE  STANDARD. 

1 quart  of  Bark  Liquor,  10°  Twaddell. 

1 quart  of  Fustic  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell. 

1 quart  of  Red  Liquor. 

1 quart  of  Purple  Standard. 

1 quart  of  Logwood  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell. 


No.  25. 

TO  PAD  DARK  SHADES  OF  OLIVE. 

Use  2 quarts  of  Bark  Liquor,  10°  Twaddell. 
12  quarts  of  Fustic  Liquor,  12°  Twaddell. 

1 lb.  of  Alum. 

2 quarts  of  Purple  Standard. 

Logwood  Liquor  according  to  shade. 


ART  OF  PADDING. 


303 


No.  26. 

LILAC. 

Take  2 quarts  of  Pink  Standard. 

4 quarts  of  Purple  Standard. 

No.  27. 

SLATE  STANDARD. 

2 lbs.  of  Copperas. 

2 gallons  of  hot  Water. 

2 quarts  of  Gall  Liquor,  10°  Twaddell. 
2 quarts  of  Sulphate  of  Indigo. 

Add  water  according  to  shade. 


No.  28. 

FIRST  SHADE,  YELLOW  STONE  DRAB. 

4 quarts  of  Bark  Liquor,  2°  Twaddell. 

4 gallons  of  Water. 

1 quart  of  Gall  Liquor. 

2 quarts  of  Iron  Liquor. 


No.  29. 

SECOND  SHADE,  STONE  DRAB. 

4 quarts  of  Bark  Liquor,  2°  Twaddell. 

1 pint  of  Iron  Liquor. 

\ a noggin  of  Sulphate  of  Indigo. 

Add  water  according  to  shade. 


304 


ART  OF  PADDING. 


No.  30. 

THIRD  SHADE. 

1 quart  of  Bark  Liquor,  2°  TwaddelL 
1 noggin  of  Iron  Liquor. 

3 quarts  of  First  Shade  Standard. 


No.  31. 

CINNAMON  STANDARD. 

1 gallon  of  Water. 

2 lbs.  of  Annotta. 

1 lb.  of  Pearlash. 

Boil  together. 

In  another  vessel,  boil  2 lbs.  of  Catechu. 
1 gallon  of  Water. 

1 lb.  of  Chrome. 

1 pint  of  Acetate  of  Copper. 


No.  32. 

TO  PAD  CINNAMON. 

Use  1 pint  of  Acetate  of  Copper. 

1 gallon  of  Cinnamon  Standard. 

Half  out  of  each  vessel,  as  described  in  No.  31. 


*a|M 


ART  OF  PADDING. 


305 


No.  *33. 

TO  PAD  ESTARIAZER  COLOR. 

2 gallons  of  Cinnamon  Standard. 

1 gallon  of  No.  28,  Stone  Standard. 

1 quart  of  Logwood  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell. 


No.  34. 

TO  PAD  SLATE  COLORS. 

Take  2 gallons  of  Slate  Standard,  No.  27. 

4 gallons  of  Water. 

Darker  or  Lighter  Shades  may  be  got  by  adding 
more  or  less  of  the  Standard. 


No.  35. 

DARK  GREEN  STANDARD. 

1 gallon  of  Persian  Berry  Liquor,  16°  Twaddell. 
3 lbs.  of  Prussiate  of  Potash. 

J lb.  of  Oxalic  Acid. 

1 quart  of  Red  Liquor. 

3 gills  of  Extract  of  Indigo. 

1 noggin  of  Muriate  of  Tin. 
a noggin  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

26* 


306 


ART  OF  PADDING. 


No.  36. 

PALE  GREEN. 

2 quarts  of  Green  Standard,  No.  35. 
1 pint  of  Persian  Berry  Liquor. 

And  water  as  required. 


No.  37. 

SKY  BLUE  STANDARD. 

Mix  10  lbs.  of  good  Paste  Extract  with  1 pail- 
ful of  Water;  dissolve  every  particle  to  prevent 
Blotches  wThen  used;  fill  the  Trough  to  a little 
above  the  Trolly,  then  add  1 quart  of  this  Stand- 
ard for  a Light  Blue,  and  1 gill  of  Ammonia,  and 
boil  while  running  the  first  end  through;  if  not 
dark  enough,  run  through  again.  For  Dark 
Shades  add  more  Extract  and  Ammonia. 


No.  38. 

LAVENDER  STANDARD. 

Dissolve  20  lbs.  of  Alum  and  10  lbs.  of  Sugar 
of  Lead  in  5 pails  of  Water,  then  take  off  the  clear 
Liquor  and  heat  up  to  180°,  and  then  put  into  a 
bag  4 or  5 pailfuls  of  Logwood,  and  rinse  it  in  this 
Liquor ; let  it  steep  in  it  about  5 hours,  and  then 
draw  out  the  bag.  This  is  Lavender  Bloom  Stand- 
ard. 


ART  OF  PADDING. 


307 


For  the  Blue  Standard  for  Lavenders,  dissolve 
3 lbs.  of  Tartaric  Acid,  2 lbs.  of  Alum,  and  14 
lbs.  of  good  Extract,  with  2 pailfuls  of  hot  Water. 
For  Lighter  or  Darker  Shades  of  Lavenders,  take 
more  or  less  of  the  Blue  Standard  with  Bloom 
Standard,  according  to  shade  required. 

TO  PAD  TEN  PIECES,  LAVENDER. 

Take  1 pail  of  Bloom  Standard  and  2 quarts  of 
Blue  Standard,  heat  up  to  180°,  add  1 pint  of  Bed 
Liquor,  and  then  run  4 ends. 


No.  39. 

DBAB  PREPARATION,  OR  ANOTHER 
MODE  OF  PADDING  DRAB. 

Take  3 pints  of  Fustic  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell,  1 
pint  of  Muriate  of  Tin,  run  them  2 ends  through 
the  boiling  Liquor  at  the  Machine. 

This  mode  of  padding  Drabs  is  preferred  by 
some  parties. 


No.  40. 

TO  PAD  DIFFERENT  SHADES  OF  DRAB. 

Fill  up  a little  above  the  Trolly  with  cold  Water, 
and  put  in  a little  Iron  Liquor  at  full  strength,  a 
little  Blue  Standard,  a little  Lavender  Bloom 


308 


ART  OF  PADDING. 


Standard,  and  a little  Archil,  all  at  full  strength, 
according  to  shade  required.  For  Fawn  Shades, 
add  only  a little  Bloom,  but  for  heavier  shades 
add  a little  Iron  Liquor  as  well ; for  Bluer  shades 
of  Drab,  add  a little  Blue  Standard  ; and  for  very 
blooming  shades,  add  a little  Archil  with  more 
Bloom  Standard.  With  more  or  less  of  these  In- 
gredients properly  mixed,  any  shade  of  Drab  may 
be  got  without  much  difficulty,  the  Goods  being 
previously  prepared  according  to  No.  39,  it  being 
the  basis  for  all  these  Ingredients. 


No.  41. 

SKY  BLUE. 

Another  mode  of  Padding. — Take  6 gallons  of 
Water,  1J  noggin  of  Nitrate  of  Iron  90°  T wad- 
dell,  l a noggin  of  Muriate  of  Tin,  mix  well,  run 

3 ends,  then  dissolve  4 ozs.  of  Tartaric  Acid,  and 

4 ozs.  of  Yellow  Prussiate  of  Potash,  in  6 gallons 
of  Water,  to  which  add  \ a noggin  of  Extract  of 
Indigo,  and  put  this  into  the  Trough,  and  run  3 
or  4 ends  according  to  shade  required,  and  then 
dry  at  the  Machine. 


No.  42. 

ROYAL  BLUE. 

How  to  prepare  Royal  Blues. — Add  3 lbs.  of 
Tin  Crystals  to  1 pint  of  Oil  of  Vitriol ; in  another 


ART  OF  PADDING. 


309 


vessel,  melt  4 lbs.  of  Chloride  of  lime,  add  1 gill 
of  Oil  of  Vitriol  with  8 gallons  of  Water,  run  4 
ends  through  Tin  Preparation  6°  Twaddell,  then 
through  the  Chloride  of  Lime  2°  Twaddell,  then 
through  a fresh  Liquor  of  Nitrate  of  Iron  12° 
Twaddell,  then  through  Soda,  lj  lb.  to  a Piece; 
wash  and  run  them  in  strong  Prussiate  Liquor, 
wTith  a little  Oil  of  Vitriol  in  it,  at  the  Padding- 
Machine,  after  which  they  must  be  steamed. 

The  Steaming  will  raise  the  Cotton  and  the 
Worsted  from  a flat  Green  to  a good  Blue. 


SILK  WARP,  SKEIN, 


AND 

HANDKERCHIEF  PRINTING. 

— ♦ — 

No.  1. — BLACK. 

3 gallons  of  Logwood  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell ; 
3 lbs.  of  D.  British  Gum,  12  oz.  of  Gum  Dragon, 
6 ozs.  of  Sal  Ammoniac,  boil  well.  When  half  cold, 
add  1 pint  of  S.  Copper  Liquor.  When  cold,  add 
1 quart  of  Muriate  of  Iron,  3 gills  of  Nitrate  of 
Iron. 


No.  2.— SCARLET. 

1 gallon  of  Cochineal  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell,  1 
lb.  of  Starch.  At  blood  heat,  add  3 ozs.  of  Oxalic 
Acid,  4 ozs.  of  Tin  Crystals,  1 gill  of  Persian 
Berry  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell. 


No.  3.— GREEN. 

1 gallon  of  French  Berry  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell, 
1 lb.  of  Alum,  1 lb.  of  Flour.  When  taken  off 
the  fire,  add  1 quart  of  Extract  of  Indigo,  1 quart 
of  Red  Liquor. 


SILK  WARP  PRINTING. 


311 


No.  4. — CLARET. 

1 quart  of  Bronze  Logwood,  1 quart  of  Bronze 
Peachwood,  1 quart  of  Red  Liquor,  2\  lbs.  of 
British  Gum.  When  taken  off  the  fire,  add  1 
quart  of  Y.  Copper  Liquor. 


No.  5.— BROWN. 

10  parts  of  Amber  Color,  4 parts  of  Ruby,  1 
part  of  Black. 


No.  6.— DARK  RED. 

8 of  Bronze  Peachwood,  1 of  Nitromuriate  of 
Tin,  add  2 of  the  above  to  1 of  Gum  Water,  then 
add  1 lb.  of  Alum  per  gallon. 


No.  7.— ORANGE. 

t» 

3 lbs.  of  good  Annotta,  1 lb.  of  Caustic  Potash, 
16°  Twaddell.  Boil  until  dissolved,  add  1 of  the 
above  to  2 of  Gum  Water,  and  then  add  2 ozs.  of 
Alum  per  gallon. 


No.  8. — AMBER. 

1 gallon  of  Berry  Liquor,  9°  Twaddell,  1 oz. 
of  Alum,  2J  lbs.  of  British  Gum.  When  taken 
off  the  fire,  add  8 ozs.  of  Tin  Crystals. 


312 


SILK  WARP  PRINTING. 


No.  9.— PINK. 

1 lb.  of  fine  ground  Cochineal,  1 lb.  of  strong 
Spirits  of  Ammonia.  Mix,  and  let  them  remain 
in  a hot  stove  for  at  least  24  hours,  then  add  2 
gallons  of  Water,  and  boil  the  whole  down  to  2 
gallons,  then  add  4 ozs.  of  Alum,  4 ozs.  of  Oxalic 
Acid,  4 ozs.  of  Tin  Crystals.  Thicken  with  Gum 
Senegal. 


No.  10.— LIGHT  PINK. 
1 of  the  above  to  3 of  Gum  Water. 


No.  11.— PEACH. 

20  of  Ammoniacal  Cochineal,  1 of  Extract  of 
Indigo. 


No.  12.— LIGHT  PEACH. 
1 of  the  above  to  8 of  Gum  Water. 


No.  13.— DARK  PURPLE. 

1 of  Bronze  Logwood,  1 of  Red  Liquor,  4 of 
Gum  Water. 

No.  14. — LIGHT  PURPLE. 

1 of  Bronze  Logwood,  5 of  Red  Liquor,  5 of 
Gum  Water. 


i 


SILK  WARP  PRINTING. 


313 


No.  15.— BLUE. 

1 gallon  of  Bed  Liquor,  8 ozs.  of  Oxalic  Acid, 
4 ozs.  of  Tartaric  Acid,  1 lb.  of  Paste  Indigo. 
Thicken  with  Gum  Senegal. 


No.  16.— DARK  BROWN. 

26  quarts  of  Berry  Liquor,  12°  Twaddell,  10 
quarts  of  Logwood  Liquor,  12°  Twaddell,  9 quarts 
of  Sapan  Liquor,  12°  Twaddell,  5 lbs.  of  Sul- 
phate of  Copper,  10  lbs.  of  Alum,  2 lbs.  of  Sal- 
ammoniac,  6 gallons  of  thick  Gum  Water. 


No.  IT.— LIGHT  BROWN. 

2 gallons  of  Catechu,  10°  Twaddell,  1 gallon 
of  Berry  Liquor,  10°  Twaddell,  1 gallon  of  Sapan 
Liquor,  6°  Twaddell,  4 ozs.  of  Nitrate  of  Copper. 
Thicken  with  Gum  Senegal. 


No.  18.— POPPY  RED. 

2 lbs.  of  Ground  Cochineal,  1 pint  of  Strong 
Ammonia,  3 pints  of  Water,  4 pints  of  Thick 
Gum  Water,  4 ozs.  of  Alum,  4 ozs.  of  Oxalic 
Acid,  1 noggin  of  Muria-Sulphate  of  Tin.  Pass 
the  above  through  a fine  Sieve. 

27 


314 


SILK  WARP  PRINTING. 


No.  19.— DARK  FAWN. 

1 quart  of  Water,  1 pint  of  Berry  Liquor,  12° 
Twaddell,  1 pint  of  Logwood  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell, 
4 ozs.  of  Sal  Ammoniac,  2 lbs.  of  Catechu,  when 
dissolved,  add  1 pint  of  V.  Copper  Liquor,  thick- 
en with  British  Gum. 


No.  20.— LIGHT  FAWN. 

Take  one  of  the  above  to  4 of  Gum  Water. 


No.  21.— DARK  DRAB. 

1 quart  of  Logwood,  12°  Twaddell,  1 quart  of 
Sumach,  6°  Twaddell,  2 quarts  of  Berry  Liquor, 
12°  Twaddell,  4 ozs.  of  Alum,  2 quarts  of  Cop- 
peras Buff,  thicken  with  British  Gum. 


No.  22.— LIGHT  DRAB. 

Add  2 of  the  above  to  4 of  Gum  Water. 


No.  23.— DARK  DAHLIA. 

1 gallon  of  Red  Archil,  1 gallon  of  Sapan 
Liquor,  8°  Twaddell,  6 lbs.  of  Gum  Senegal,  raise 
in  a weak  Ammonia  Liquor. 


SILK  WARP  PRINTING. 


315 


No.  24.— LIGHT  DAIILIA. 
Add  1 of  tlic  above  to  4 of  Gum  Water. 


No.  25.— DARK  BLUE. 

2 quarts  of  Water,  2 lbs.  of  Prussiate  of  Pot- 
ash, when  dissolved,  add  2 quarts  of  Gum  Water, 
4 ozs.  of  Tartaric  Acid  ; when  cold,  add  J a 
noggin  of  Sulphuric  Acid. 


No.  26.— LIGHT  BLUE. 

In  1 gallon  of  Gum  Water  dissolve  2 ozs.  of 
Tartaric  Acid,  and  then  add  1 pint  of  Extract  of 
Indigo. 


No.  27.— DARK  GREEN. 

1 gallon  of  Berry  Liquor,  12°  Twaddell,  12 
ozs.  of  Alum,  2 lbs.  of  Prussiate  of  Potash,  4 
ozs.  of  Oxalic  Acid,  when  dissolved,  thicken  with 
3 lbs.  of  Gum  Senegal,  3 noggins  of  Vinegar; 
add  1 noggin  of  Muriate  of  Tin,  stirring  it  well 
while  adding  it,  to  which  add  1 quart  of  Extract 
of  Indigo. 


No.  28.— LIGHT  GREEN. 

Add  1 of  the  above  to  3 of  Gum  Water, 


816 


SILK  WARP  PRINTING. 


No.  29.— -SLATE  STANDARD. 

5 quarts  of  Red  Liquor,  18°  Twaddell,  1 gill 
of  Iron  Liquor,  22°  Twaddell,  add  5 parts  of  the 
above  to  1 of  Bronze  Logwood,  add  2 parts  of 
the  above  Standard  to  1 of  Gum  Water,  for  the 
Dark  Slate  Color. 


No.  30.— LIGHT  SLATE  COLOR. 
Add  1 of  the  Standard  to  8 of  Gum  Water. 


No.  31.— RED  RUBY. 

1 gallon  of  Bronze  Peachwood,  3 lbs.  of  Gum 
Senegal,  1 lb.  of  Ground  Alum,  at  blood  beat,  add 
1 gill  of  Oxymuriate  of  Tin. 


No.  32.— MAZE. 

7 pints  of  Water,  3 ozs.  of  Pearlash,  1|  lb.  of 
Annotta. 


No.  33.— DARK  LAVENDER. 

1 of  Dark  Purple,  No.  18, 1 of  Blue,  No.  15, 
2 of  Gum  Water. 


SILK  WARP  PRINTING. 


31T 


No.  34.— LIGHT  LAVENDER. 

1 of  Dark  Purple,  No.  13,  1 of  Blue,  No.  15,  0 
of  Gum  Water. 


No.  35.— DARK  MAROON. 

1 quart  of  Bronze  Logwood,  1 quart  of  Bronze 
Peachwood,  1 quart  of  V.  Copper  Liquor.  Thick- 
en with  3 lbs.  of  British  Gum.  Boil  well,  and 
then  add  1 quart  of  Red  Liquor  at  18°  Twaddell, 


No.  36.— LIGHT  MAROON. 

2 quarts  of  Catechu  Liquor,  10°  Twaddell, 
2 quarts  of  Sumach  Liquor,  6°  Twaddell,  thicken 
with  Gum  Senegal,  and  then  add  G ozs.  of  Nitro- 
muriate  of  Tin. 


No.  37.— DARK  GRAIN  CRIMSON. 

1 lb.  of  ground  Cochineal,  2 quarts  of  Spirits 
of  Ammonia,  mix  and  put  in  a hot  stove  for  24 
hours,  then  add  2 quarts  of  water,  and  boil  well  ; 
thicken  with  3 lbs.  of  Gum  Senegal,  and  then  add 
8 ozs.  of  Alum. 


27* 


318 


SILK  WARP  PRINTING. 


No.  38.— PONTIA. 

1  gallon  of  Cochineal  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell, 
thicken  with  1 lb.  of  Starch,  at  blood  heat,  add  2 
ozs.  of  Alum,  2 ozs.  of  Oxalic  Acid,  and  2j.ozs. 
of  Crystals  of  Tin. 

No.  39. — LOSE. 

1 lb.  of  Ammoniacal  Cochineal  to  3 lbs.  of  Gum 
Water. 


No.  40.— DARK  APRICOT. 

1 gallon  of  Water,  4 lbs.  of  Catechu,  8 ozs.  of 
Sal  Ammoniac,  1 pint  of  Sapan  Liquor,  8°  Twad- 
dell, thicken  with  British  Gum,  add  1 pint  of 
Copper  Liquor,  1 gill  of  Muriate  of  Copper,  and 
1 pint  of  Red  Liquor. 

No.  41.— LIGHT  APRICOT. 

2 quarts  of  Persian  Berry  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell, 
6 ozs.  of  Alum,  1 quart  of  Maze  Color,  No.  32,  1 
noggin  of  Oxymuriate  of  Tin,  2 quarts  of  Gum 
Water. 


No.  42.— DARK  RED  PURPLE. 

3  quarts  of  Bronze  Logwood,  12  ozs.  of  Alum, 
for  the  Standard.  For  the  Color,  use  2 of  Stand- 
ard to  1 of  Red  Liquor  and  3 of  Gum  Water. 


SILK  WARP  PRINTING. 


319 


No.  43.— LIGHT  RED  PURPLE. 

1 of  Standard,  1 of  Red  Liquor,  and  G of  Gum 
Water. 


No.  44.— DARK  ORANGE. 

5 quarts  of  Caustic  Pearlash,  8°  T waddell,  2j 
lbs.  of  Annotta,  boil  well,  then  2 quarts  of  Water, 
boil  again,  then  add  2 ozs.  of  Tartaric  Acid,  and 
2 ozs.  of  Alum ; thicken  with  3 lbs.  of  British 
Gum. 


No.  45.— LIGHT  ORANGE. 

1 of  the  above  to  3 of  Gum  Water. 


No.  46.— DARK  OLIVE. 

1 quart  of  Dark  Purple  Standard,  No.  13,  1 
quart  of  Bark  and  Fustic  Liquor,  12°  Twaddell, 
1 pint  of  Blue,  No.  15,  1 pint  of  Iron  Liquor,  22° 
Twaddell,  J a noggin  of  Extract  of  Indigo,  4 
quarts  of  Gum  Water. 


No.  47.— LIGHT  OLIVE. 

1 of  Dark  Olive,  No.  47,  4 of  Gum  Water,  and 
1 pint  of  Bark  Liquor  per  gallon. 


320 


SILK  WARP  PRINTING. 


No.  48.— DARK  CINNAMON  BRONZE. 

1 gallon  of  Cochineal  Liquor,  4°  Twaddcll,  6 
quarts  of  Persian  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell,  8 ozs.  of 
Paste  Extract  of  Indigo,  mix  very  well,  thicken 
with  51  lbs.  of  British  Gum,  when  off  the  fire  add 
8 ozs.  of  Tin  Crystals,  when  nearly  cold  add  8 
ozs.  of  Oxalic  Acid. 


No.  49.— LIGHT  CINNAMON  BROWN. 

Add  1 of  the  above,  No.  48,  to  3 of  Gum 
Water. 


No.  50.— DARK  YELLOW. 

2 gallons  of  Persian  Berry  Liquor,  12°  Twad- 
dell, 8 ozs.  of  Tin  Crystals,  boil  well,  thicken  with 
1 lb.  of  British  Gum  and  1 lb.  of  Flour;  when  off 
the  fire,  add  8 ozs.  of  Salt. 


No.  51.— LIGHT  YELLOW. 

2 quarts  of  Gum  Water,  1 quart  of  Bark  Liquor, 
8°  Twaddell,  1 quart  of  Red  Liquor,  18°  Twad- 
dell, 4 ozs.  of  Cream  of  Tartar. 


SILK  WARP  PRINTING. 


321 


No.  52.— ORANGE  BROWN. 

2 quarts  of  Red  Archil,  4 gallons  of  Yellow 
Color. 

To  make  the  Yellow  Color. — 1 gallon  of  Persian 
Berry  Liquor,  12°  Twaddell,  12  ozs.  of  Alum,  1 
gill  of  Oxymuriate  of  Tin,  4 quarts  of  thick  Gum 
Water. 


No.  53.— LIGHT  ORANGE  BROWN. 

1 quart  of  Red  Archil,  6 quarts  of  Yellow 
Color. 


No.  54.— HOW  TO  MAKE  BRONZE 
PEACI1WOOD. 

1 gallon  of  Peachwood  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell,  8 
ozs.  of  Sal  Ammoniac;  when  cold,  add  1 pint  of 
Sulphate  of  Copper. 


No.  55.— BRONZE  LOGWOOD. 

1 gallon  of  Logwood,  8°  Twaddell,  8 ozs.  of 
Sal  Ammoniac;  when  dissolved,  add  1 pint  of 
Copper  Liquor. 


322 


SILK  WARP  PRINTING. 


No.  56.— COPPER  LIQUOR. 

1 gallon  of  Water,  4 lbs.  of  Sulphate  of  Cop- 
per, 4 lbs.  of  Sugar  of  Lead;  use  only  the  clear 
Liquor. 


No.  57.— ANNOTTA  LIQUOR. 

1 gallon  of  Caustic  Potash,  5°  Twaddell,  1\  lb. 
of  Annotta,  and  boil  until  dissolved. 


No.  58.— COPPERAS  BUFF. 

1 gallon  of  Water,  4 lbs.  of  Copperas,  8 ozs.  of 
Sugar  of  Lead ; use  only  the  clear  Liquor. 


No.  59.— AMMONIACAL  COCHINEAL. 

2 lbs.  of  fine  ground  Cochineal,  5 pints  of  strong 
Ammonia,  put  in  a close  jar,  and  place  it  in  a 
warm  bath,  or  put  it  in  a hot  stove  for  24  hours; 
then  add  2 gallons  of  Water  and  boil  it  down  to 
two  gallons,  to  which  add  4 ozs.  of  Alum,  4 ozs. 
of  Oxalic  Acid,  and  4 ozs.  of  Tin  Crystals. 


No.  60.— EXTRACT  OF  INDIGO,  FOR 
PRINTING. 

- Add  3 lbs.  of  Paste  Extract  to  1 gallon  of 
Water. 


SILK  WARP  PRINTING. 


323 


No.  61.— DARK  PRUSSIATE  LIQUOR. 

2 gallons  of  Water,  8 lbs.  of  Prussiate,  8 lbs. 
of  Tartaric  Acid,  and  1 noggin  of  Sulphate  of 
Indigo. 

No.  62.— SULPHATE  OF  INDIGO.  ' 

Add  1 lb.  of  good  Indigo  to  4 lbs.  of  Sulphuric 
Acid  (Oil  of  Vitriol). 


HOW  TO  SET  COPPERAS  VATS. 


1IOW  TO  SET  A COPPERAS  VAT  FOR  DYEING  COTTON 
WARPS  AND  IIANKS. 

In  a half  pipe  tub  of  cold  water,  add  12  lbs.  of  ground  In- 
digo ; the  Indigo  must  be  ground  in  a barrel  with  water.  To  this 
add  12  lbs.  of  new  slaked  Lime  and  24  lbs.  of  Copperas.  Stir 
well  a few  times,  and  in  the  course  of  24  hours  it  will  be  ready 
for  use. 

This  will  be  a good  vat,  and  will  dye  a great  quantity  of  Cot- 
ton. It  will  dye  a very  good  shade  of  Blue  by  passing  the 
Cotton  once  through,  and  darker  shades  by  passing  through 
again.  When  the  vat  is  nearly  worn  out,  add  to  it  a few 
pounds  of  Copperas,  and  a pound  or  two  of  Potash,  which  will 
revive  it  again.  By  this  means  all  the  strength  of  the  Indigo 
may  be  got  out  of  it.  Some  Dyers  use  considerably  more  Cop- 
peras in  the  setting,  but  this  is  enough  when  very  bright  shades 
are  required.  _ ^ ^ 

HOW  TO  SET  A COPPERAS  VAT  FOR  PIECE  DYEING. 

^ In  a large  vat  add  20  lbs.  of  Indigo,  well  ground  as  before, 
100  lbs.  of  Copperas,  and  30  lbs.  of  new  slaked  Lime.  Stir 
well  for  half  an  hour  until  it  has  a Yellow  appearance,  and  in 
the  course  of  24  hours  it  will  be  ready  for  use.  After  working 
the  vat  for  some  length  of  time,  add  a little  more  Copperas. 

28 


326 


A SHORT  DESCRIPTION  OF  DYEWARES 
MENTIONED  IN  THIS  WORK. 

Alum. — This  salt  is  prepared  from  certain  clays  containing 
pyrites.  It  is  used  very  extensively  in  dyeing,  in  consequence 
of  the  attraction  which  Alumina  has  for  coloring  matter.  It  is 
used  as  a mordant  or  base  for  Mock  Crimson,  Maroon,  Claret, 
Purple,  &c.,  as  may  be  seen  in  the  foregoing  receipts.  How- 
ever, in  the  dyeing  of  colors  generally,  Bichromate  of  Potass 
supersedes  the  use  of  Alum,  being  less  injurious  to  the  fabric, 
and  giving  a greater  depth  of  color,  and  requiring  smaller 
quantities  of  Dyewoods  for  the  same  shade.  Alum  is  some- 
times used  after  chroming,  when  the  color  is  too  full,  being 
made  lighter  by  adding  a little.  When  the  shade  is  too  Blue,  a 
little  Alum  will  redden  it. 

Annotta. — This  is  obtained  from  an  American  tree,  called 
bixa  orellana,  and  it  is  imported  in  the  form  of  a paste,  of  a 
brick  red  color.  It  is  soluble,  or  spent  by  Pearlasli  at  boiling 
heat.  It  is  used  in  dyeing  various  colors  upon  Cotton  and 
Silks,  viz:  Buff,  Salmon,  Flat  Yellow,  Orange,  and  some  Fawn 
shades  of  Drab.  The  colors  may  be  raised  by  running  in  weak 
Nitric  or  Sulphuric  Acid. 

Archil. — This  is  a Blue-red  or  Violet  paste  obtained  from 
the  Lichen  rocella,  grown  in  the  south  of  France,  and  in  the 
Canary  Islands,  where  the  best  is  produced.  Alone  it  pro- 
duces a Ruby  color,  and  a very  light  Violet  by  adding  a little 
Ammonia,  or  other  alkalies.  It  reddens  Indigo  Blues,  and 
combined  with  Logwood  produces  Purple. 

Ammonia. — Liquid  Ammonia  is  generally  distilled  from  Gas 
Liquor ; it  is  sometimes  made  from  Ammoniacal  salts  and  Lime, 


/ 


DYEWARES. 


327 


but  the  best  for  ctyeing  purposes  is  made  from  Urine.  It  is 
very  much  used  by  Dyers  for  the  purpose  of  blueing  Crimsons, 
Clarets,  Purples,  &c.  It  is  also  used  in  making  Paste  Cochi- 
neal. See  Receipt  No.  31,  Worsted  Yarn  Dyeing. 

Argol. — It  is  obtained  from  the  juice  of  the  grape,  and  is  a 
crystallized  incrustation  generally  found  in  Wine  Casks.  It 
becomes  white  when  purified  by  solution  and  crystallization, 
and  is  then  called  Cream  of  Tartar.  In  dyeing,  Argol,  com- 
bined with  Alum,  is  generally  used  in  the  preparation  or  boil- 
ing of  Mock  Crimsons,  Maroons,  Clarets,  and  Purples.  It  is 
excellent  in  giving  solidity  to  these  and  other  colors.  Being 
a weak  Acid,  it  is  the  best  for  dyeing  bright  Greens,  working 
well  with  Extract,  Sulphate  of  Indigo,  and  is  not  destructive 
to  Fustic.  It  is  frequently  used  in  dyeing  the  Spirit  colors,  as 
Scarlet,  Orange,  and  Grain  Crimson;  but  Cream  of  Tartar  is 
preferable  for  Yellows,  Pinks,  Salmons,  and  other  light  Spirit 
colors. 

Super  Argol. — It  is  made,  from  Sal-enixen,  or  Sulphate  of 
Soda,  and  sometimes  from  common  Salt-cake.  As  an  acid,  it 
is  used  for  dyeing  Drabs,  and  Greens  when  Turmeric  is  used 
instead  of  Fustic.  Also  for  Olives  and  Browns.  It  is  much 
cheaper  than  either  Argol  or  Brown  Tartar,  and  in  some  cases 
is  preferable. 

Camwood. — This  is  a dark  red  Wood,  containing  strong 
coloring  matter  which  is  of  a permanent  nature,  and  is  gene- 
rally used  for  dying  Browns  and  Olives  upon  Worsted  Goods 
It  is  most  soluble  in  Sulphuric  Acid  diluted  with  water.  In 
the  dyeing  of  Woollens,  it  is  sometimes  employed  as  a substi- 
tute for  Red  Saunders,  producing  a more  fiery  appearance  in 
Browns  of  light  and  middle  shades. 

Catechu. — Catechu  is  an  extract  from  the  heart-wood  of  the 
Khair  Tree  of  the  East  Indies.  The  coloring  matter  is  some- 
times extracted  by  Sulphate  of  Copper,  and  sometimes  by 
Nitrate  of  Copper;  but  Bichromate  of  Potass  is  a more  efficient 


328 


DYE  WARES. 


extractor  of  this  color.  It  is  used  in  dyeing  Cotton  a variety 
of  shades,  varying  from  a Light  Drab  to  a Dark  Brown. 

Cochineal. — Is  a small  Mexican  Insect,  containing  strong 
coloring  matter,  very  permanent.  It  is  used  in  dyeing  Pinks, 
Hose  colors,  Oranges,  Scarlets,  and  Crimsons.  The  mode  of 
extracting  the  coloring  matter  is  by  means  of  Nitrate  of  Tin, 
and  Muriate  of  Tin;  Oxalic  Tin  gives  the  brightest  color. 
These  Acids,  for  bright  shades,  are  combined  with  White  or 
Brown  Tartar. 

Chrome,  or  Bichromate  of  Potass. — This  is  a red  orange 
Crystal,  and  is  of  very  great  use  as  a mordant  in  dyeing  Blacks 
and  other  dark  colors  upon  Worsted  and  Woollen  Goods,  giving 
greater  permanence  than  any  other  mordant  previously  em- 
ployed. Its  excellent  properties,  in  this  respect,  have  only  of 
late  been  appreciated,  and  it  is  now  becoming  generally  used. 
The  Author  of  this  work  unhesitatingly  affirms  that  he  was  the 
first  person,  in  the  neighborhood  of  Halifax,  to  dye  colors  from 
Bichromate  of  Potass.  It  effects  a great  saving  of  time  and 
expense,  &c. 

Cudbear  (see  Archil). — Cudbear  is  a dry  powder,  of  a fine 
Blue-red  color,  and  will  dye  a Ruby  of  itself,  either  upon  Silk, 
Worsted,  or  Woollen;  a Violet,  "with  a little  Logwood;  a Purple 
or  Adelaide ; by  previously  undergoing  the  Chroming  process. 
See  Receipts  Nos.  6 and  7,  Orleans  from  Black  Warps.  It  is 
used  in  dyeing  Lavenders,  Drabs,  and  various  other  shades,  for 
the  red  part  of  the  color. 

Ciiemic,  or  Sulphate  of  Indigo. — This  is  a blue  paste  pre- 
pared from  Indigo,  and  contains  more  of  it  in  solution  than  any 
other  preparation  of  it  whatever.  For  Dyeing  purposes,  it  is 
thus  made:  Put  into  a Stone  Jar  36  lbs.  of  Sulphuric  Acid,  to 
which  add  12  lbs.  of  ground  Indigo  gradually;  stir  well  for  1 
hour.  After  standing  a few  hours,  it  will  be  fit  for  use.  This 
Chemic  is  much  cheaper  than  Extract  of  Indigo  for  dyeing  some 
colors,  as  Greens,  Olives,  and  Browns.  Extracts  of  Indigo  are 


DYEWARES. 


829 


only  modifications  of  this  Chemic,  being  partly  neutralized  and 
filtered. 

French  Berry,  or  Persian  Berry. — This  is  the  fruit  of  the 
Rhamnus  Infectorius.  They  yield  a bright  Yellow  coloring  mat- 
ter, which  is  employed  in  dyeing  light  Yellow  shades  upon 
Cotton;  also  for  light  Greens,  with  either  Extract  of  Indigo  or 
Prussiate  of  Potass.  They  also  give  the  Fawn  shade  to  Drabs. 
Combined  with  alum,  or  Crystals  of  Tin,  a fine  Golden  Yellow 
is  obtained. 

Fustic,  or  Young  Fustic. — The  best  Old  Fustic  is  imported 
from  Cuba,  and  yields  a permanent  yellow  coloring  matter  when 
combined  with  Alum  and  Argol,  in  dyeing  various  shades  of 
Greens,  See  Receipts  Nos.  12  and  13,  Colored  Merinoes;  also 
used  after  Chroming  for  Olives  of  different  shades ; see  Receipt 
No.  7,  Orleans  from  Black  Warps,  &c.  Young  Fustic  is  chiefly 
used  in  dyeing  Yellows,  Oranges,  and  Scarlets.  See  Receipts 
from  8 to  11,  Colored  Orleans.  It  gives  a bright  Yellow  when 
combined  with  Nitrate,  Muriate,  or  Oxalic  Tin,  the  last  being 
the  most  effectual. 

Galls. — The  Gall-nut  is  chiefly  imported  from  Aleppo.  It 
yields  an  astringent  Black  coloring  matter,  when  combined  with 
Copperas  and  Logwood;  and  it  is  generally  employed  in  dyeing 
Silver  Drabs  upon  Cotton,  when  combined  with  Nitrate  of  Iron. 
As  a Dyeware,  it  gives  greater  solidity  than  Sumach  for  those 
light  shades.  Volones  have  nearly  the  same  properties. 

Indigo. — It  is  produced  from  the  leaves  of  Indigofera,  a 
plant  cultivated  in  South  America,  East  Indies,  &c.  It  is  a 
very  permanent  coloring  matter,  employed  in  dyeing  the  ma- 
jority of  colors,  varying  from  a Drab  to  an  Indigo  Blue.  The 
color  produced  by  it  is  often  imitated  by  dyeing  with  Logwood, 
Worsteds  and  Woollens  which  have  previously  undergone  the 
Chroming  process.  See  Receipt  No.  32,  Worsted  Yarn  Dyeing. 

Kermes,  or  Lac  Dye. — It  is  obtained  from  an  insect  depo- 
sited on  different  species  of  trees  in  the  East  Indies  and  other 

28* 


330 


DYE  WARES. 


places.  Tt  contains  red  coloring  matter,  very  like  that  of  Cochi- 
neal, and  is  frequently  used  as  a substitute  for  it,  being  thought 
by  some  Chemists  to  possess  more  permanence.  It  dyes  good 
Scarlets,  along  with  Nitrate  of  Tin,  or  Oxalic  Tin,  and  Tartar. 
This  Dye  is  much  cheaper  than  Cochineal,  and  the  difference  of 
color  is  only  slightly  perceptible.  See  Receipts  Nos.  10  and  11. 

Logwood. — This  is  a Dark  Red  Dyewood,  and  is  much  em- 
ployed in  dyeing  Black  upon  Silk,  Cotton,  and  Woollen;  also 
for  Blues  and  many  other  colors.  Logwood,  on  first  being  in- 
troduced into  England,  was  denounced  by  the  cultivators  of  the 
native  Woad,  and  even  prohibited  in  England  by  Queen  Eliza- 
beth. All  imported  was  to  be  destroyed;  nor  was  it  allowed  to 
be  used  till  the  reign  of  Charles  the  Second. 

Madder. — This  is  obtained  from  the  root  of  the  Rubia  Tine- 
torum,  which  grows  wild  in  the  South  of  Europe,  &c.  It  is  an 
article  of  great  importance  in  dyeing.  Madder  possesses  five 
distinct  coloring  principles,  viz.,  madder  red,  madder  purple, 
madder  orange,  madder  yellow,  and  madder  brown.  These 
colors  are  of  most  use  to  Calico  Printers.  It  is  also  used  by 
Dyers  to  deaden  Drabs;  and  with  acid,  &c.,  to  dye  many 
shades  of  Drabs.  See  Receipts  Nos.  37  and  38,  Colored  Me- 
rinos. 

Nitric  Acid,  or  Aqua  Fortis. — This  Spirit  is  much  used  in 
Dyeing.  It  is  made  from  Nitrate  of  Potass,  or  Nitrate  of  Soda, 
and  Sulphuric  Acid.  It  will  dye  Silk  yellow  of  itself,  but  is 
generally  killed  with  Tin  for  Worsteds  and  Woollens. 

Nitrates. — Nitrate  of  Tin  is  Aqua  Fortis  killed  with  Tin, 
which  is  used  in  dyeing  Yellows,  Buffs,  Scarlets,  and  Crimsons, 
upon  Worsted  and  Woollen  Goods.  See  Receipt  No.  47,  Worsted 
Yarns.  Nitrate  of  Iron  is  Aqua  Fortis  killed  with  Iron,  or  Cop- 
peras. It  is  used  for  dyeing  Buffs  upon  Cotton,  and  as  a mor- 
dant or  preparation  for  other  colors.  Nitrate  of  Copper  is  Aqua 
Fortis  killed  with  Copper,  which  is  very  useful  for  spending 
Catechu,  combined  with  Sulphate  of  Copper. 


DYEWARES. 


331 


Oxalic  Tin. — This  is  a most  valuable  Spirit  for  dyeing  all 
• grain  colors,  brighter  colors  being  obtained  by  it  than  by  either 
Nitrate  of  Tin  or  Muriate  of  Tin.  It  is  the  best  destroyer  of 
Gum,  sometimes  found  in  Lac,  and  which  is  very  injurious  in 
dyeing.  In  Woollens  it  is  very  penetrating,  dyeing  the  piece 
through,  however  strong,  without  leaving  any  white  appearance. 
As  yet,  it  is  only  partially  known  by  the  Dyers,  but  much  ap- 
proved by  those  who  have  tested  its  excellency. 

Peaciiwood. — This  is  used  for  dyeing  Mock  Crimsons,  Ma- 
roons, and  Clarets,  upon  Worsted,  Woollen,  and  Cotton  Goods, 
as  may  be  seen  from  many  of  the  Receipts  in  this  book.  It 
dyes  very  bright  colors  after  a preparation  of  Alum,  and  darker 
shades  of  the  same  colors  after  a preparation  of  Chrome. 

Prussiate  of  Potass. — This  is  made  from  Pearlasli  and 
animal  substances,  as  horns  and  hoofs ; it  is  very  extensively 
used  by  Dyers  for  dyeing  Prussian  Blues,  varying  from  a Sky 
to  a Royal  Blue  upon  Cotton  Fabrics.  The  Bright  Victoria  Blue 
is  obtained  from  Prussiate  as  follows:  First  rinse  the  Yarns 
or  Warps  in  a solution  of  Nitrate  of  Iron  and  a few  Crystals  of 
Tin ; then  rinse  in  a solution  of  Prussiate.  The  best  mode, 
however,  is  by  first  rinsing  in  Muriate  of  Tin  diluted  with  Water ; 
then  in  a decoction  of  Logwood ; after  which,  let  them  pass 
through  the  first  process  above  described,  with  less  Prussiate. 
This  mode  will  produce  a more  bloomy  color  than  that  obtained 
by  the  first  mode. 

Quercitron  Bark. — This  is  obtained  from  the  Yellow  Oak 
(quercus  negra ),  growing  in  North  America.  It  furnishes  an 
excellent  Yellow  color.  Alum  and  Muriate  of  Tin  are  the  prin- 
cipal Mordants  employed  in  dyeing  Woollen  and  Cotton ; but 
Oxalic  Tin  is  the  most  efficient.  It  produces  excellent  Drabs 
upon  Cotton  with  Nitrate  of  Iron. 

Safflower. — The  flowers  of  the  Carthamus  Tinctorius , grown 
chiefly  in  Spain,  contain  two  coloring  matters,  yellow  and  red ; 
the  yellow  is  carried  off  by  well  washing  in  water  until  the 


332 


DYEWARES. 


flowers  assume  a bright  crimson  appearance  ; the  red  coloring 
matter  is  extracted  by  steeping  in  Pearlash  and  water,  with 
occasional  stirring ; the  liquor  is  then  pressed  from  the  flower, 
and  is  ready  for  dyeing  Pink  upon  Cotton  fabrics,  combined 
with  a little  Tartaric  or  Sulphuric  Acid.  There  is  also  a decoc- 
tion of  Safflower,  which  is  sold  in  bottles.  See  Receipt  No.  1, 
Shot  Cobourgs. 

Saunders,  or  Red  Sandal. — This  is  the  wood  of  the  Ptcro- 
carpus  santalinus , grown  in  India.  It  possesses  deep  red  color- 
ing matter,  and  is  used  chiefly  in  dyeing  Woollen  Goods.  It  is 
more  permanent  than  Peachwood,  though  not  of  so  bright  a 
color. 

Sap  an  Wood. — This  wood  produces  a red  color,  similar  to  that 
obtained  from  Peachwood,  but  it  is  not  much  used  for  dyeing 
purposes.  It  is  generally  sold  in  the  Liquid  state,  and  is  used 
in  Padding  and  Printing.  See  Receipt  No.  2,  Art  of  Padding. 

Sumach. — This  astringent  vegetable  production  is  extensively 
used  chiefly  for  Cotton  dyeing.  It  is  used  as  the  base  of  many 
colors.  The  best  is  that  imported  from  Sicily.  It  has  great 
affinity  for  Iron,  which,  when  combined  with  Sumach  in  certain 
proportions,  imparts  to  Cotton  a variety  of  shades  from  Silver 
Drab  to  Black. 

Turmeric. — This  is  the  root  of  a plant  cultivated  in  the  East 
Indies,  and  contains  much  yellow  coloring  matter.  It  is  fre- 
quently used  instead  of  Fustic,  but  is  not  so  permanent. 


EXAMINATION  OF  WATER  BY  TESTS, 
OR  REAGENTS. 


TO  ASCERTAIN  IF  WATER  BE  HARD  OR  SOFT. 

Procure  a small  quantity  of  Soap  dissolved  in  Alcohol,  and 
let  a few  drops  of  it  fall  into  a glass  of  the  water  to  he  tried. 
If  the  water  becomes  milky,  it  is  hard;  but  if  little  or  no  milki- 
ness takes  place,  the  water  may  be  said  to  be  soft. 

TO  ASCERTAIN  IF  WATER  CONTAIN  AN  ACID. 

Take  a piece  of  paper,  containing  no  sizing,  and  which  has 
been  previously  stained  with  Litmus,  Syrup  of  Violets,  or  scrap- 
ings of  Radishes,  and  immerse  it  in  the  water  to  be  examined ; 
if  the  paper  becomes  red,  it  contains  an  Acid.  If  a little  lime- 
water  be  added  to  the  same  water,  and  a precipitate  takes 
place,  it  is  Carbonic  Acid.  If  dark  blue  paper,  such  as  is 
wrapped  round  loaves  of  sugar,  be  converted  to  red,  it  contains 
a Mineral  Acid. 

TO  ASCERTAIN  IF  WATER  CONTAIN  AN  ALKALI  OR 

AN  EARTH. 

Take  a piece  of  paper  which  has  been  stained  with  an  infu- 
sion of  Litmus,  and  reddened  by  Vinegar,  and  immerse  it  in 
the  water;  if  the  blue  color  of  the  paper  be  restored,  it  either 
contains  an  alkali  or  an  earth. 


334 


EXAMINATION  OF  WATER. 


If  a little  of  the  Syrup  of  Violets  be  added  to  the  water 
•which  contains  an  alkali  or  an  earth,  the  water  will  become 
Green. 


TO  ASCERTAIN  IF  WATER  CONTAIN  IRON. 

Take  a glass  of  water  and  add  to  it  a few  drops  of  the  infusion 
of  Nutgalls,  or  suspend  a Nutgall  in  it,  by  means  of  a thread, 
for  24  hours;  if  Iron  be  present,  the  water  will  become  of  a 
dark  Brown  or  Black  color. 

Prussiate  of  Potash  is  a still  more  delicate  test  for  detecting 
Iron.  If  a Crystal,  or  a drop  of  it  when  dissolved,  be  added  Jo 
a glass  of  water  containing  Iron,  it  will  immediately  become  of 
a Blue  color. 

TO  ASCERTAIN  IF  WATER  CONTAIN  ANY  SUBSTANCE 
COMBINED  WITH  MURIATIC  ACID. 

Take  a glass  of  water  and  let  a few  drops  of  Nitrate  of  Silver 
fall  into  it ; if  a milkiness  be  produced,  which  disappears  on  the 
addition  of  a little  Liquid  Ammonia,  it  may  be  concluded  that 
some  salt  with  Muriatic  Acid  is  present.  Muriate  of  Lime, 
Muriate  of  Soda  (common  salt),  and  Muriate  of  Magnesia  are 
the  salts  most  generally  to  be  met  with  in  spring  water. 

TO  ASCERTAIN  IF  WATER  CONTAIN  MAGNESIA. 

Take  a quantity  of  the  Avater,  and  boil  down  to  a twentieth 
part  of  its  bulk,  then  drop  a few  grains  of  Carbonate  of  Ammo- 
nia into  a small  glass  of  water.  No  Magnesia  will  yet  be  pre- 
cipitated ; but  on  adding  a small  quantity  of  Phosphate  of  Soda, 
if  any  Magnesia  be  present,  it  will  then  make  its  appearance, 
and  fall  to  the  bottom  of  the  glass.  Observation. — In  this 
experiment,  it  is  necessary  that  the  Carbonate  of  Ammonia  be 
in  a neutral  state. 


EXAMINATION  OE  WATER. 


335 


TO  ASCERTAIN  IF  WATER  CONTAIN  TURE  LIME. 

Into  a glass  of  the  water  drop  a Crystal  or  two  of  Oxalic 
Acid ; if  a precipitate  takes  place,  and  if  another  glass  of  the 
same  water  becomes  milky  upon  blowing  air  from  the  lungs 
into  it  through  a quill,  the  presence  of  pure  Lime,  or  Barytes, 
may  be  inferred ; but  Barytes  has  never  yet  been  found  pure  in 
water. 

TO  ASCERTAIN  IF  WATER  CONTAIN  CARBONIC 

ACID. 

Take  a quantity  of  the  water,  and  add  to  it  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  perfectly  transparent  limewater.  If  Carbonic  Acid  be 
present,  either  free  or  combined,  a precipitate  immediately  ap- 
pears, which  on  adding  a few  drops  of  Muriatic  Acid  will  again 
be  dissolved  with  effervescence. 

TO  ASCERTAIN  IF  WATER  CONTAIN  ANY 
^ COMBINATION  OF  SULPHUR. 

Put  a little  Quicksilver  into  a phial  of  water,  cork  it,  and  let 
it  stand  for  a few  hours.  If  the  surface  of  the  quicksilver  has 
acquired  a black  appearance,  and  a blackish  powder  separates 
from  it  on  shaking  the  phial,  the  presence  of  Sulphur  may  be 
inferred. 

TO  ASCERTAIN  IF  WATER  CONTAIN  LEAD. 

To  a little  of  the  water  in  a glass  add  an  equal  portion  of 
water  impregnated  -with  Sulphuretted  Gas.  If  Lead  be  present, 
it  will  be  known  by  the  color  of  the  water,  which  will  assupie 
a dark  Brown  or  blackish  tinge.  Observation. — Lead  may  be 
also  detected  by  adding  a little  Sulphuret  of  Ammonia  or  Pot- 
ash. A similar  effect  will  take  place  as  in  the  last  experiment, 
if  Lead  be  present. 


836 


EXAMINATION  OF  WATER. 


TO  ASCERTAIN  IF  WATER  CONTAIN  COPPER. 

Immerse  a polished  plate  of  Iron  in  the  water  to  be  exa- 
mined, and  let  it  remain  in  a few  minutes.  If  Copper  be  pre- 
sent, the  plate  of  Iron  will  be  coated  over  with  Copper.  Obser- 
vation.— A few  drops  of  Liquid  Ammonia  will  turn  any  water 
containing  Copper  to  a deep  blue  color. 


3-37 


EXPLANATION  OF  TERMS,  ETC. 


A Tot  is  equal  to  about  £ of  a Tint. 

A Pailful  will  amount  to  about  3 or  4 Gallons. 

Dishful.  Instead  of  using  this  term,  10  lbs.  lias  been  sub- 
stituted in  the  course  of  this  work. 

"Where  it  is  said  Worsted  dye , with  a certain  quantity  of 
wares,  it  means  that  the  Worsted  must  be  dyed  before  the  Cot- 
ton, and  the  Cotton  afterwards. 

When  it  is  said  Sumach , it  means  that  the  Pieces  must  bo 
run  in  Sumach  Liquor  prepared  in  the  following  manner : Boil 
up  about  100  lbs.  in  the  bottom  of  a Cistern,  stir  it  up  well  for 
about  15  minutes,  and  then  add  sufficient  cold  water;  this  will 
be  about  sufficient  for  80  Pieces;  the  first  40  to  be  turned  on 
about  half  an  hour,  the  latter  to  be  turne " gut  an  hour, 


retain  some  strength,  and  by  adding  a little  more  Sumach, 
either  boiled  or  dry,  the  Liquor  will  then  prepare  80  Pieces 
more,  by  being  steeped  in  it  all  night,  and  draining  out  all  the 
strength.  Less  Sumach  will  be  required  when  a considerable 
quantity  of  Pieces  are  prepared,  but  not  less  than  2 lbs.  to  a 
Piece  will  prepare  10  at  once.  But  where  a Sumach  Vessel  is 
continually  used,  the  better  way  is  to  boil  up  a quantity  of 
Sumach  at  once  in  a separate  vessel,  and  replenish  as  occasion 
may  require.  Some  Dyers  prefer  a mere  infusion  of  Sumach 
in  cold  Water. 

When  it  is  said  Iron , it  means  to  run  the  Pieces  in  diluted 
Nitrate  of  Iron.  When  a vessel  is  first  used,  a little  more  Iron 
is  required  than  is  stated  in  some  of  the  Receipts  for  White 


or  to  be  steeped  in  the  liquor  for  the  s gth  of  time. 

After  about  80  Pieces  have  been  preparec , pior  will  still 


20 


838 


EXPLANATION  OF  TERMS. 


Warped  Orleans  and  Cobourgs;  but  no  more  than  is  stated  after 
the  vessel  is  seasoned ; for  the  more  iron  is  used,  the  Blacker 
appearance  the  Pieces  will  have.  Where  the  least  Iron  can  be 
used,  the  clearer  the  rieces  will  appear.  It  is  not  advisable  to 
work  the  same  Liquor  more  than  a few  days,  wherever  Su- 
maclied  Pieces  are  being  continually  run  in  it,  for  it  frequently 
precipitates  the  Iron  and  Sumach  together,  forming  a sort  of  a 
paste  of  a blubber  appearance,  which  leaves  streaks  and  stains 
in  the  Pieces  which  cannot  be  seen  in  the  Ironed  state.  I 
have  had  Pieces  dryed  after  being  Ironed,  to  prove  how  the 
stains  were  produced,  and  I have  found  them  to  have  been 
produced  in  the  Ironing  process.  Some  Dyers,  not  properly 
understanding  the  nature  of  the  article,  use  pailful  after  pail- 
ful of  Nitrate  of  Iron,  where  one-fourth  of  the  quantity  would 
do  much  better.  It  has  a great  affinity  for  Sumach,  and  as 
soon*  as  it  comes  in  contact  with  it,  it  produces  a dark  slate  or 
thin  black  color ; by  adding  a portion  of  Logwood,  a Black  is 
formed.  Sometimes  the  Nitrate  of  Iron  may  not  be  sufficiently 
killed,  or  has  not  sufficient  Iron  in  it.  When  this  is  the  case, 
it  will  destroy  the  Sumach,  and  leave  the  Cotton  a thin  Drab, 
instead  of  a thin  Black,  and  it  will  not  take  Logwood  for  Black  ; 
and  if  the  warp  be  for  a Brown  or  Claret,  the  Piece  has  to  be 
Cotton-dyed  again ; the  effect  of  which  is  seldom  seen  until  the 
Pieces  are  dyed,  which,  if  Cotton-dyed  in  this  manner,  are 
never  so  handsome. 

To  Spirit,  means  to  run,  or  prepare,  say  10  Pieces,  in  about 
1 Quart  of  Muriate  of  Tin,  diluted  with  water,  in  a Cistern 
which  will  hold  the  Pieces  conveniently,  and  turned  on  about 
8 ends : 20  or  30  Pieces  may  be  spirited  by  adding  half  a Pint 
more  Spirits.  Some  Dyers  prefer  Spiriting  and  Ironing  in 
Troughs  made  for  the  purpose,  and  this  plan  is  certainly  more 
expeditious,  and  docs  not  require  so  much  Spirit. 


t 


I & W- 


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I 


PUBLICATIONS 

OP 

HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD, 

SUCCESSOR  TO  E.  L.  CAREY, 

No.  7 Ilart’s  Building,  Sixth  Street  above  Chestnut,  Philadelphia. 


SCIENTIFIC  AND  PRACTICAL. 


THE  PRACTICAL  MODEL  CALCULATOR, 

For  the  Engineer,  Machinist,  Manufacturer  of  Engine  Work, 
Naval  Architect,  Miner,  and  Millwright.  By  Oliver  Byrne, 
Compiler  and  Editor  of  the  Dictionary  of  Machines,  Mechanics, 
Engine  Work  and  Engineering,  and  Author  of  various  Mathe- 
matical and  Mechanical  Works.  Illustrated  by  numerous  En- 
gravings. Now  Complete,  One  large  Volume,  Octavo,  of  nearly 
six  hundred  pages $3.50 

It  will  contain  such  calculations  as  are  met  with  and  required  in  the  Me- 
chanical Arts,  and  establish  models  or  standards  to  guide  practical  men.  The 
Tables  that  are  introduced,  many  of  which  are  new,  will  greatly  economize 
labour,  and  render  the  every-day  calculations  of  the  practical  man  comprehen- 
sive and  easy.  From  every  single  calculation  given  in  this  work  numerous 
other  calculations  are  readily  modelled,  so  that  each  may  be  considered  the  head 
of  a numerous  family  of  practical  results. 

The  examples  selected  will  be  found  appropriate,  and  in  all  cases  taken  from 
the  actual  practice  of  the  present  time.  Every  rule  has  been  tested  by  the  un- 
erring results  of  mathematical  research,  and  confirmed  by  experiment,  when 
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The  Practical  Model  Calculator  will  he  found  to  fill  a vacancy  in  the  library 
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and  systematic  manner  in  which  the  model  calculations  arc  established. 


NORRIS’S  HAND-E00K  FOR  LOCOMOTIVE  ENGI- 
NEERS AND  MACHINISTS: 

Comprising  the  Calculations  for  Constructing  Locomotives 
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the  rules  to  construct  locomotives,  in  order  tiiat  the  million  should  be  learned 
in  all  things. — Scientific  American.  I 


( 


2 


THE  ARTS  OF  TANNING  AND  CURRYING 

Theoretically  and  Fractically  considered  in  all  their  details. 
Being  a fall  and  comprehensive  Treatise  on  the  Manufacture  of 
the  various  kinds  of  Leather.  Illustrated  by  over  two  hundred 
Engravings.  Edited  from  the  French  of  De  Fontenelle  and 
Malapeyere.  With  numerous  Emendations  and  Additions,  by 
Campbell  TVIorfit,  Practical  and  Analytical  Chemist.  Com- 
plete in  one  Volume,  octavo $5.00 

This  important  Treatise  will  be  found  to  cover  the  whole  field  in  the  most 
masterly  manner,  and  it  is  believed  that  in  no  other  branch  of  applied  science 
could  more  signal  service  be  rendered  to  American  Manufacturers. 

The  publisher  is  not  aware  that  in  any  other  work  heretofore  issued  in  this 
country,  more  space  has  been  devoted  to  this  subject  than  a single  chapter ; 
and  in  offering  this  volume  to  so  large  and  intelligent  a class  as  American 
Tanners  and  Leather  Dressers,  he  feels  confident  of  their  substantial  support 
and  encouragement. 


THE  PRACTICAL  COTTON-SPINNER  AND  MANU- 
FACTURER; Or,  The  Manager’s  and  Overseer’s 
Companion. 

This  works  contains  a Comprehensive  System  of  Calculations 
for  Mill  Gearing  and  Machinery,  from  the  first  moving  power 
throxigh  the  different  processes  of  Carding,  Drawing,  Slabbing, 
lloving,  Spinning,  and  Weaving,  adapted  to  American  Machinery, 
Practice,  and  Usages.  Compendious  Tables  of  Yarns  and  Reeds 
are  added.  Illustrated  by  large  Working-drawings  of  the  most 
approved  American  Cotton  Machinery.  Complete  in  One  Volume, 
octavo $3.50 

This  edition  of  Scott’s  Cotton-Spinner,  by  Oliver  Byrne,  is  designed  for  tho 
American  Operative.  It  will  be  found  intensely  practical,  and  will  be  of  the 
greatest  possible  value  to  the  Manager,  Overseer,  and  Workman. 


THE  PRACTICAL  METAL-WORKER’S  ASSISTANT, 

For  Tin-Plate  Workers,  Frasiers,  Coppersmiths,  Zinc-Plate 
Ornamenters  and  Workers,  Wire  Workers,  Whitesmiths,  Black- 
smiths, Bell  Hangers,  Jewellers,  Silver  and  Gold  Smiths,  Elec- 
trotypers, and  all  other  Workers  in  Alloys  and  Metals.  By 
Charles  IIoltzappfel.  Edited,  with  important  additions,  by 
Oliver  Byrne.  Complete  in  One  Volume,  octavo $4.00 

It  will  treat  of  Casting,  Founding,  and  Foriring;  of  Tongs  and  other  Tools; 
Degrees  of  Heat  and  Managemnet  of  Fires;  Welding;  of  Heading  and  Swage 
Tools ; of  Punches  and  Anvils;  of  Hardening  and  Tempering;  of  Malleable  Iron 
Castings,  Case  Hardening,  Wrought  and  Cast  Tron.  The  management  and  ma- 
nipulation of  Metals  and  Alloys,  Melting  and  Mixing.  The  management  of  Fur^ 
naces,  Casting  and  Founding  with  Metallic  Moulds,  Joining  and  Working  Sheet 
Metal.  Peculiarities  of  the  different  Tools  employed.  Processes  dependent  on 
the  ductility  of  Metals.  Wire  Drawing,  Drawing  Metal  Tubes,  Soldering.  The 
use  of  the  Blowpipe,  and  every  other  known  Metal-Worker’s  Tool.  To  the 
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to  tho  American  Metal-Worker. 


3 


THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  IRON  IN  ALL  ITS 
VARIOUS  BRANCHES: 

To  which  is  added  an  Essay  on  the  Manufacture  of  Steel,  Ly 
Frederick  Overman,  Mining  Engineer,  with  one  hundred  and 
fifty  Wood  Engravings.  A new  edition.  In  One  Volume,  oc- 
tavo, five  hundred  pages $5.00 

We  have  now  to  announce  the  appearance  of  another  valuable  work  on  the 
subject  which,  in  our  humble  opinion,  supplies  any  deficiency  which  late  im- 
provements and  discoveries  may  have  caused,  from  the  lapse  of  time  since  the 
date  of  “Mushet”  and  “ Sclirivenor.”  It  is  the  production  of  one  of  our  trans- 
atlantic brethren,  Mr.  Frederick  Overman.  Mining  Engineer;  and  we  do  not 
hesitate  to  set  it  down  as  a work  of  great  importance  to  all  connected  with  the 
iron  interest;  one  which,  while  it  is  sufficiently  technological  fully  to  explain 
chemical  analysis,  and  the  various  phenomena  of  iron  under  different  circum- 
stances, to  the  satisfaction  of  the  most  fastidious,  is  written  in  that  clear  and 
comprehensive  style  as  to  be  available  to  the  capacity  of  the  humblest  mind, 
and  consequently  will  be  of  much  advantage  to  those  works  where  the  proprie- 
tors may  see  the  desirability  of  placing  it  in  the  hands  of  their  operatives. — 
London  Morning  Journal. 


A TREATISE  ON  THE  AMERICAN  STEAM-ENGINE. 

Illustrated  by  numerous  Wood  Cuts  and  other  Engravings. 
By  Oliver  Byrne.  In  One  Volume.  (In  press.) 


PROPELLERS  AND  STEAM  NAVIGATION: 

With  Biographical  Sketches  of  Early  Inventors.  By  Robert 
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The  object  of  this  ‘‘History  of  Propellers  and  Steam  Navigation”  is  twofold. 
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vented to  propel  vessels,  in  order  to  prevent  many  ingenious  men  from  wasting 
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study,  and  money  thrown  away  on  such  contrivances  is  beyond  calculation. 
In  this  respect,  it  is  hoped  that  it  will  be  the  means  of  doing  some  good. — 
Preface. 


A TREATISE  ON  SCREW-PROPELLERS  AND 
THEIR  STEAM-ENGINES. 

With  Practical  Rules  and  Examples  by  which  to  Calculate 
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ANT. $1. 

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been  introduced  for  the  benefit  of  the  Miller. — Savannah  Republican. 

The  whole  business  of  making  flour  is  most  thoroughly  treated  by  him. — 
Bulletin 

A very  comprehensive  view  of  the  Millwright’s  business. — Southern  Literary 

Messenger. 


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There  is  no  description  of  turning  or  lathe-work  that  this  elegant  little  treatise 
does  not  describe  and  illustrate  — Western  Lit.  Messenger. 


9 


A TREATISE  GIT  A BOX  OE  INSTRUMENTS, 

And  the  Slide  Rule,  with  the  Theory  of  Trigonometry  and 
Logarithms,  including  Practical  Geometry,  Surveying,  Measur- 
ing of  Timber,  Cask  and  Malt  Gauging,  Heights  and  Distances. 
By  Thomas  Kentish.  In  One  Volume,  12mo.  $1. 


THE  LOCOMOTIVE  ENGINE: 

Including  a Description  of  its  Structure,  Rules  for  Estimating 
its  Capabilities,  and  Practical  Observations  on  its  Construction 
and  Management.  By  Zerah  Colburn,  12mo 75  cts. 


SYLLABUS  OF  A COMPLETE  COURSE  OF  LEC- 
TURES ON  CHEMISTRY: 

Including  its  Application  to  the  Arts,  Agriculture,  and  Mining, 
prepared  for  the  use  of  the  Gentlemen  Cadets  at  the  lion.  E.  I. 
Co.’s  Military  Seminary,  Addiscombe.  By  Professor  E.  Solly, 
Lecturer  on  Chemistry  in  the  Hon.  E.  I.  Co.’s  Military  Seminary. 
Revised  by  the  Author  of  “Chemical  Manipulations.”  Ih  one 
volume,  octavo,  cloth.  $1.25. 


THE  ASSAYER’S  GUIDE ; 

Or,  Practical  Directions  to  Assayers,  Miners,  and  Smelters, 
for  the  Tests  and  Assays,  by  Heat  and  by  Wet  Processes,  of  the 
Ores  of  all  the  principal  Metals,  and  of  Gold  and  Silver  Coins 
and  Alloys.  By  Oscar  M.  Lieber,  late  Geologist  to  the  State 
of  Mississippi.  12mo.  With  Illustrations.  75  cts. 


THE  BOOKBINDER’S  MANUAL. 

Complete  in  one  Volume,  12mo.  (in  press.) 


10 


ELECTROTYPE  MANIPULATION: 

P»eing  the  Theory  and  Plain  Instructions  in  the  Art  of  Working 
in  Metals,  by  Precipitating  them  from  their  Solutions,  through 
the  agency  of  Galvanic  or  Voltaic  Electricity.  By  Charles  V. 
Walker,  Hon.  Secretary  to  the  London  Electrical  Society,  eto 

Illustrated  by  Wood-cuts.  A New  Edition,  from  the  Twenty- 
fifth  London  Edition.  12mo.  75  cts. 


PHOTOGENIC  MANIPULATION : 

Containing  the  Theory  and  Plain  Instructions  in  the  Art  of 
Photography,  or  the  Productions  of  Pictures  through  the  Agency 
of  Light ; including  Calotype,  Chrysotype,  Cyanotype,  Chroma- 
type,  Energiatype,  Anthotype,  Ampliitype,  Daguerreotype, 
Thermography,  Electrical  and  Galvanic  Impressions.  By 
George  Thomas  Fisher,  Jr.,  Assistant  in  the  Laboratory  of 
the  London  Institution.  Illustrated  by  wood-cuts.  In  one  vo- 
lume, 24mo.,  cloth.  62  cts. 


MATHEMATICS  FOR  PRACTICAL  MEN : 

Being  a Common-Place  Book  of  Principles,  Theorems,  Rules, 
and  Tables,  in  various  departments  of  Pure  and  Mixed  Mathe- 
matics, with  their  Applications ; especially  to  the  pursuits  of 
Surveyors,  Architects,  Mechanics,  and  Civil  Engineers,  with  nu- 
merous Engravings.  By  Olinthus  Gregory,  L.  L.  D.  $1.50. 

Only  let  men  awake,  and  fix  tlieir  eyes,  one  while  on  the  nature  of  things, 
another  while  on  the  application  of  them  to  the  use  and  service  of  mankind. 
— Lord  Bacon. 


EXAMINATIONS  OF  DRUGS,  MEDICINES,  CHE- 
MICALS, &c. 

As  to  their  Purity  and  Adulterations.  By  C.  II.  Peirce,  M.D., 
Translator  of  “Stockhardt’s  Chemistry,”  Examiner  of  Medicines 
for  the  Port  of  Boston,  &c.  &c.  12mo,  cloth $1.25 


I 


11 


SHEEP-HUSBANDRY  IN  THE  SOUTH: 

Comprising  a Treatise  on  the  Acclimation  of  Sheep  in  the 
Southern  States,  and  an  Account  of  the  different  Breeds.  Also, 
a Complete  Manual  of  Breeding,  Summer  and  Winter  Manage- 
ment, and  of  the  Treatment  of  Diseases.  With  Portraits  and 
other  Illustrations.  By  Henry  S.  Randall.  In  One  Volume, 
octavo $1.25 


ELWOOD’S  GRAIN  TABLES: 

Showing  the  value  of  Bushels  and  Pounds  of  different  kinds 
of  Grain,  calculated  in  Federal  Money,  so  arranged  as  to  exhibit 
upon  a single  page  the  value  at  a given  price  from  ten  cents  to  two 
dollars  per  bushel,  of  any  quantity  from  one  pound  to  ten  thousand 
bushels.  By  J.  L.  Elwood.  A new  Edition.  In  One  Volume, 
12mo $1 

To  Millers  and  Produce  Dealers  this  work  is  pronounced  by  all  who  have  it 
in  use,  to  he  superior  in  arrangement  to  any  work  of  the  kind  published — and 
unerring  accuracy  in  every  calculation  may  be  relied  upon  in  every  instance. 

A reward  of  Twenty-five  Dollars  is  offered  for  an  error  of  one  cent  found 
in  the  work. 


MISS  LESLIE’S  COMPLETE  COOKERY. 

Directions  for  Cookery,  in  its  Various  Branches.  By  Miss 
Leslie.  Forty-seventh  Edition.  Thoroughly  Revised,  with  the 
Addition  of  New  Receipts.  In  One  Volume,  12mo,  half  bound, 
or  in  sheep $1 

In  preparing  a new  and  carefully  revised  edition  of  this  my  first  work  on 
cookery,  I have  introduced  improvements,  corrected  errors,  and  added  new 
receipts,  that  I trust  will  on  trial  be  found  satisfactory.  The  success  of  the 
book  (proved  by  its  immense  and  increasing  circulation)  affords  conclusive  evi- 
dence that  it  has  obtained  the  approbation  of  a large  number  of  my  country- 
women ; many  of  whom  have  informed  me  that  it  has  made  practical  house- 
wives of  young  ladies  who  have  entered  into  married  life  with  no  other  acquire- 
ments than  a few  showy  accomplishments.  Gentlemen,  also,  have  told  me  of 
great  improvements  in  the  family  table,  after  presenting  their  wives  with  this 
manual  of  domestic  cookery,  and  that,  after  a morniug  devoted  to  the  fatigues 
of  business,  they  no  longer  find  themselves  subjected  to  the  annoyance  of  an 
ill-dressed  dinner. — Preface. 


MISS  LESLIE’S  TWO  HUNDRED  RECEIPTS  IN 
FRENCH  COOKERY. 


A new  Edition,  in  clotli 


25  cts. 


12 


THE  DYER’S  INSTRUCTOR, 

Comprising  Practical  Instructions  in  the  Art  of  Dyeing  Silk, 
Cotton,  Wool  and  Worsted  and  Woollen  Goods,  &c.,  containing 
nearly  800  Receipts,  to  which  is  added  the  Art  of  Padding  and 
the  Printing  of  Silk  Warps,  Skeins,  and  Handkerchiefs,  and  the 
various  Mordants  and  Colours  for  the  different  styles  of  such 
work.  By  David  Smith,  Pattern  Dyer,  1 vol.  12mo,  (just 
published) $1.60 


TWO  HUNDRED  DESIGNS  EOR  COTTAGES  AND 

VILLAS,  &c.  &c. 

Original  and  Selected.  By  Thomas  U.  Walter,  Architect  of 
Girard  College,  and  John  Jay  Smith,  Librarian  of  the  Phila- 
delphia Library.  In  Four  Parts,  quarto $10 


GUIDE  FOR  WORKERS  IN  METALS  AND  STONE. 

Consisting  of  Designs  and  Patterns  for  Gates,  Piers,  Balcony 
and  Cemetery  Railing,  Window  Guards,  Balustrades,  Stair- 
cases, Verandas,  Fanlights,  Lamps  and  Lamp  Posts,  Palisades, 
Monuments,  Mantles,  Gas  Fittings,  Stoves,  Stands,  Candlesticks, 
Silver  and  Plated  Ware,  Chandeliers,  Candelabras,  Potters’ 
Ware,  &c.  &c.  By  T.  U.  Walter,  Architect,  and  John  Jay 
Smith,  4 vols.  4to,. plates $10 


FAMILY  ENCYCLOPEDIA 

Of  Useful  Knowledge  and  General  Literature;  containing 
about  Four  Thousand  Articles  upon  Scientific  and  Popular  Sub- 
jects. With  Plates.  By  John  L.  Blake,  D.  D.  In  One  Vo- 
lume, 8vo,  cloth  extra $3.50 


THE  PYROTECHNIST’S  COMPANION; 

Or,  A Familiar  System  of  Recreative  Fire-Works.  By  G.  W. 
Mortimer.  Illustrated  by  numerous  Engravings.  12mo.  75cts 


13 


STANDARD  ILLUSTRATED  POETRY. 


THE  TALES  AND  POEMS  OF  LORD  BYRON: 

Illustrated  by  Henry  Warren.  In  One  Volume,  royal  8vo. 


with  10  Plates,  scarlet  cloth,  gilt  edges $5 

Morocco  extra $7 


It  is  illustrated  by  several  elegant  engravings,  from  original  designs  by 
Warren,  and  is  a most  splendid  work  for  the  parlour  or  study. — Boston  Evening 
Gazette. 


CHILDE  HAROLD;  A ROMAUNT  BY  LORD  BYRON: 

Illustrated  by  12  Splendid  Plates,  by  Warren  and  others.  In 


One  Volume,  royal  8yo.,  cloth  extra,  gilt  edges $5 

Morocco  extra $7 


Trinted  in  elegant  style,  with  splendid  pictures,  far  superior  to  any  thing  of 
the  sort  usually  found  in  books  of  this  kind. — N.  Y.  Courier. 


THE  FEMALE  POETS  OF  AMERICA. 

By  Rufus  W.  Griswold.  A new  Edition.  In  One  Volume, 


royal  8vo.  Cloth,  gilt $2.50 

Cloth  extra,  gilt  edges $3 

Morocco  super  extra $4.50 


The  best  production  which  has  yet  come  from  the  pen  of  Dr.  Griswoi.p,  and 
the  most  valuable  contribution  which  he  has  ever  made  to  the  literary  celebrity 
of  the  country. — N.  Y.  Tribune. 


THE  LADY  OF  THE  LAKE: 

By  Sir  Walter  Scott.  Illustrated  with  10  Plates,  by  Cor- 
bould  and  Meadows.  In  One  Volume,  royal  8vo.  Bound  in 


cloth  extra,  gilt  edges $5 

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This  is  one  of  the  most  truly  beautiful  books  which  has  ever  issued  from  tho 
American  press. 


LALLA  RQOKK;  A ROMANCE  BY  THOMAS  MOORE: 

Illustrated  by  13  Plates,  from  Designs  by  Corbould,  Mea- 
dows, and  Stephanoff.  In  One  Volume,  royal  8vo.  Bound  in 


cloth  extra,  gilt  edges $5 

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This  is  published  in  a style  uniform  with  the  “ Lady  of  the  Lake.” 


/ 


14’ 

THE  POETICAL  WORKS  OE  THOMAS  GRAY : 

With  Illustrations  by  C.  W.  Radcliff.  Edited  with  a Memoir, 
by  Henry  Reed,  Professor  of  English  Literature  in  the  Uni- 
versity of  Pennsylvania.  In  One  Volume,  8vo.  Bound  in  cloth 


extra,  gilt  edges S3. 50 

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In  One  Volume,  12mo,  without  plates,  cloth $1.25 


Do.  do.  do.  cloth,  gilt  edges.. ..$1.50 

We  have  not  seen  a specimen  of  typographical  luxury  from  the  American 
press  which  can  surpass  this  volume  in  choice  elegance. — Boston  Courier. 

It  is  eminently  calculated  to  consecrate  among  American  readers,  (if  they 
have  not  been  consecrated  already  in  their  hearts,)  the  pure,  the  elegant,  the 
refined,  and,  in  many  respects,  the  sublime  imaginings  of  Thomas  Gray. — 
Richmond  Whig. 


THE  POETICAL  WORKS  OF  HENRY  WADSWORTH 

LONGFELLOW: 

Illustrated  by  10  Plates,  after  Designs  by  D.  Huntingdon, 
with  a Portrait.  Ninth  Edition.  In  One  Volume,  royal  8vo. 


Bound  in  cloth  extra,  gilt  edges $5 

Morocco  super  extra $7 


This  is  the  very  luxury  of  literature — Longfellow’s  charming  poems  pre- 
sented in  a form  of  unsurpassed  beauty. — Need's  Gazette. 


POETS  AND  POETRY  OF  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINE- 
TEENTH CENTURY. 

By  Rufus  W.  Griswold.  Illustrated.  In  One  Volume,  royal 


8vo.  Bound  in  cloth $3 

Cloth  extra,  gilt  edges $3.50 

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Such  is  the  critical  acumen  discovered  in  these  selections,  that  scarcely  a page 
is  to  be  found  but  is  redolent  with  beauties,  and  the  volume  itself  may  be  re- 
garded as  a galaxy  of  literary  pearls. — Democratic  Review. 


THE  TASK,  AND  OTHER  POEMS. 

By  William  Cowper.  Illustrated  by  10  Steel  Engravings. 

In  One  Volume,  12mo.  Cloth  extra,  gilt  edges $2 

Morocco  extra $3 

“The  illustrations  in  this  edition  of  Cowper  are  most  exquisitely  designed  and 
engraved.” 


15 


THE  FEMALE  POETS  OF  GREAT  BRITAIN. 

With  Copious  Selections  and  Critical  Remarks.  By  Frederic 


Rowton.  With  Additions.  Illustrations.  8vo,  cloth $2.50 

Cloth  extra,  gilt  edges $3.00 

Turkey  morocco,  super $4.50 


Mr.  Rowton  has  presented  us  with  admirably  selected  specimens  of  nearly 
one  hundred  of  the  most  celebrated  female  poets  of  Great  Britain,  from  the 
time  of  Lady  Juliana  Bernes,  the  first  of  whom  there  is  any  record,  to  the 
Mitfords.  the  Hewitts,  the  Cooks,  the  Barretts,  and  others  of  the  present  day. — 
Hunt's  Merchants’  Magazine. 


SPECIMENS  OF  THE  BRITISH  POETS. 

From  the  time  of  Chaucer  to  the  end  of  the  Eighteenth  Cen- 
tury. By  Thomas  Campbell.  Iu  One  Volume,  royal  8vo. 
(In  press.) 


THE  POETS  AND  POETRY  OF  THE  ANCIENTS : 

By  William  Peter,  A.  M.  Comprising  Translations  and 
Specimens  of  the  Poets  of  Greece  and  Rome,  with  an  elegant 


engraved  View  of  the  Coliseum  at  Rome.  Bound  in  cloth $3 

Cloth  extra,  gilt  edges $3.50 

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It  is  without  fear  that  we  say  that  no  such  excellent  or  complete  collection 
has  ever  been  made.  It  is  made  with  skill,  taste,  and  judgment. — Charleston 
Patriot. 


THE  POETICAL  WORKS  OF  N.  PARKER  WILLIS. 


Illustrated  by  16  Plates,  after  designs  by  E.  Leutze.  In  One 
Volume,  royal  8vo.  A new  Edition.  Bound  in  cloth  extra, 

gilt  edges $5 

Turkey  morocco  super  extra .. $7 


This  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  works  ever  published  in  this  country. — 
Courier  and  Inquire r. 

Pure  and  perfect  in  sentiment,  often  in  expression,  and  many  a heart  has 
been  won  from  sorrow  or  roused  from  apathy  by  his  earlier  melodies.  The 
illustrations  are  by  Leotze, — a sufficient  guarantee  for  their  beauty  and  grace. 
As  for  the  typographical  execution  of  the  volume,  it  will  bear  comparison  with 
any  English  book,  and  quite  surpasses  most  issues  in  America.— NeaVs  Gazette. 

The  admirers  of  the  poet  could  not  have  his  gems  in  a better  foim  for  holi 
day  presents. — IK  Continent. 


16 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


JOURNAL  0?  ARNOLD'S  EXPEDITION  TO 
QUEBEC,  IN  1775. 

By  Isaac  Senter,  M.  D.  8vo,  boards 62  cts. 


ADVENTURES  OE  CAPTAIN  SIMON  SUGGS ; 

And  other  Sketches.  By  Johnson  J.  Hooper.  With  Illustra^ 


tions.  12mo,  paper 50  cts. 

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AUNT  PATTY’S  SCRAP-BAG. 

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BIG  BEAR  OE  ARKANSAS ; 

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COMIC  BLACKSTONE. 


By  Gilbert  Abbot  a’  Becket.  Illustrated.  Complete  in  One 
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GHOST  STORIES. 


Illustrated  by  Designs  by  Parley.  In  One  Volume,  12mo, 
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MODERN  CHIVALRY;  OR,  THE  ADVENTURES  OE 
CAPTAIN  FARRAGO  AND  TEAGUE  O’REGAN. 

By  H.  H.  Brackenridoe.  Second  Edition  since  the  Author’s 
death.  With  a Biographical  Notice,  a Critical  Disquisition  on 
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17 


COMPLETE  WORKS  OF  LORD  BOLINGBROKE  • 

"With  a Life,  prepared  expressly  for  this  Edition,  containing 
Additional  Information  relative  to  his  Personal  and  Public  Cha- 
racter, selected  from  the  best  authorities.  In  Four  Volumes, 


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CHRONICLES  OF  PINEVILLE. 

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GILBERT  GURNEY. 


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MEMOIRS  OF  THE  GENERALS,  COMMODORES, 
AND  OTHER  COMMANDERS, 

Who  distinguished  themselves  in  the  American  Army  and 
Navy,  during  the  War  of  the  Revolution,  the  War  ■with  France, 
that  with  Tripoli,  and  the  War  of  1812,  and  who  were  presented 
with  Medals,  by  Congress,  for  their  gallant  services.  By  Thomas 
Wyatt,  A.  M.,  Author  of  “ History  of  the  Kings  of  France.” 
Illustrated  with  Eighty-two  Engravings  from  the  Medals.  __  8vo. 


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GEMS  OF  TPIE  BRITISH  POETS. 


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VISITS  TO  REMARKABLE  PLACES : 

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A* 


18 


NARRATIVE  OF  THE  ARCTIC  LAND  EXPEDITION. 

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THE  MISCELLANEOUS  WORKS  OF  WILLIAM 

HAZLITT. 

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THE  HISTORICAL  ESSAYS* 

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tropolis of  the  South.  With  Designs  by  Darley.  18mo., 

paper 50  cts. 

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19 


NOTES  OF  A TRAVELLER 

On  the  Social  and  Political  State  of  France,  Prussia,  Switzer- 
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HISTORY  OF  THE  CAPTIVITY  OF  NAPOLEON  AT 

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NARRATIVE  OF  THE  LATE  EXPEDITION  TO  THE 

DEAD  SEA. 

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MY  DREAMS : 


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20 


RAMBLES  IN  YUCATAN; 

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to  the  Remarkable  Ruins  of  Chi-chen,  Kabali,  Zayi,  and  Uxmal. 
With  numerous  Illustrations.  By  B.  M.  Norman.  Seventh  Edi- 
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THE  AMERICAN  IN  PARIS. 

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21 


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24 


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